Race Motor Build-up
 

Since I scrapped the subie-swap due to classing issues I had to build a motor that would be able to get similar power, this should be able to do it.

Thought I'd share my progress with you guys as I build my race motor. I accidentally started assembling it this weekend (you know how it goes, you put all the motor bits in one place and it's hard to keep them apart) so here's some progress pics.

The motor specs:

2165cc turbo
CB super case, 7.0 deck, 10mm head studs
78mm forged race crank
94mm forged pistons w/ total seal 2nd ring
CB 5.7" super race rods, chevy journal
CB 044 cnc mini wedge port heads, ls1 k-motion springs, cb forged 1.3:1 rockers
K8 cam, 107 lc, 308 dur, .491" lift with 1.3:1 rockers
28mm light weight lifters
CB straight cut gears
4 gear dry sump pump
giant oil cooler w/ fan
3gal sump tank
dtm shroud
CB quick tune turbo/efi kit
turbo tbd

nice clean work area..

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/DSC00019.jpg


That didn't last long

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/DSC00027.jpg


purty heads
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...8.jpg~original
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...0.jpg~original

When I openned the case I found some corrosion, really wasn't expecting it
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...4.jpg~original
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...8.jpg~original

When men do dishes, this is what we think of...
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...6.jpg~original

Got things drying out now ready for some oil
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...0.jpg~original

Quick test of the bearings and case, this shot was after i split it again
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...1.jpg~original

I didn't get any pics when I checked crank to bearing clearance, but here's a couple of putting the crank gear assembly together. The oven is your friend during this step.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...2.jpg~original

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...1.jpg~original

Crank to cam clearance? no problem!
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...5.jpg~original

Put the rods on and checked clearance, but apparently those pics didn't upload. :P

Almost buttoned the case up, had case sealant on and everything, before I realized I didn't have a cam plug
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...8.jpg~original

That's it for now, I had to cover it all up until I picked up a couple things. I have to verify this but I might be running a distributor-less ignition, so no dizzy shaft either.

Part 2!
 

Alright, back at it again...

This is for a friend to show him how the lifter retainers work
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1662.jpg


Got the case halves together with sealant and torqued down.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1664.jpg


Closer look at the raised barrel seats and you can also see the raised roof on the case
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1665.jpg


Next up, checking ring gaps. Everything looked good and only had to file a couple.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1670.jpg


Here's a close up of a total seal 2nd ring for those that haven't seen one. The main ring has a step machined into it and theres a smaller ring that fits into that step. You position the gaps 180* from each other and it's a "gapless" ring.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1673.jpg


While were on the subject of rings, if you're doing rings for the first time you'll notice that the 3 part oil ring has colors on it. It might be red and green or blue and green but both colors need to be seen when you put it together.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1678.jpg

More...

94's are big mmkay?
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1679.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1683.jpg


Time to put on the 10mm head studs, only theres 3 different lenghts. where do they go? Looking at the barrel seats, the longest studs go on the bottom row close to the oil sump. The middle length go on the top row, 2 per side, one by the fly wheel and one by the fan belt pulley. The shortest ones go in the middle in the top row. One exception to this is 73 and up cases and I think type 3 cases (though i could be wrong). They have a deep stud above #3 by the flywheel and a long stud goes in there instead.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1687.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1688.jpg

Here you can see a normal stud on the left and deep stud on the right. Also You can see the case savers installed.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1690.jpg

Now to put the cylinders on... or not. This is as far down as they go. Not something you would normally run into but since I'm building this with 94s, 10mm studs and case savers the head stud registers in the barrels need to be clearanced. A little quality time with the dremel and they fit.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1693.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1692.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1696.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1697.jpg

Thats better!
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1694.jpg

With that headache out of the way now I can check crank end play and install the rear main seal.

13lb lightened fly wheel, and the end play tool installed
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1701.jpg

good endplay numbers with 3 shims
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1702.jpg

Pulled the fly wheel back off (what a pain) put the o-ring in the flywheel and the rear main seal in the case (thanks for the tool Anton)
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1700.jpg

Now here's a tip, if you get the fancy chromoly racing gland nut remember it's a 1 1/2" bolt and you can't use the torquemeister on it

Got the pistons and cylinders on to check deck height. Make sure pistons are installed right side up (arrows pointing to the flywheel). In order to use the deck height tool correctly it's gotta be torqued down to head torque specs, 26 ft/lbs
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1706.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1707.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1703.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1704.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1705.jpg


Looks pretty good across the board, .069" +/- .001 not too shabby.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1708.jpg

Before I quit for the night I had to toss on the dry sump pump to see how it looks and make sure everything clears.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1695.jpg

Next up is setting up the rocker geometry, and i'll be doing that over the next few days. Final numbers for compression are about 7.7:1 very turbo friendly :D

great post.

thanks for sharing.

what are you using for an engine stand?

Its just a regular engine stand made for vw motors with an extra tool tray on the back. I picked it up at bugformance, a local vw shop.

What a nice project!
Succes with it.

cheers, Stefan

Anny updates?

Wiebrand

I can't believe I forgot to update this.... Well the motor is built and in the car but here's the rest of how it got there.

How to setup proper rocker geometry. Now I know for the most part you can just bolt on rockers, cut your push rods (or find used ones) and go, but it's not the best thing for your motor. Good rocker geometry will prevent excess wear on the valves, guides, lash caps, rockers and push rods. Ideally you want to have a 90* angle between your rocker arm and push rod at half of your total lift. This prevents extreme angles between the rocker, push rod, and lash cap that could wear down your adjusters, push rod tips, rocker tips, and lash caps. This also keeps side-loading the valve step to a minimum which prevents ovalled out valve stem guides.

So here i'm using a dial indicator to figure out total lift at the valve which is .471".
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1717.jpg

Now if I setup my rockers with no spacers this is what the angle looks like, very bad. The rocker is resting on the back of the lash cap, there's a really bad angle on the push rod to the adjuster cup, and the push rod would probably rub on the push rod tube.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1723.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1722.jpg


Now using the total lift number I got before I half it to get .2355". At .2355" I need to get the angle between the push rod and the rocker as close to 90* as possible. With .195" worth of rocker block shims, it was as close as I could get and still have enough threads on the rocker studs to bolt it all down.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1724.jpg

relaxed
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1725.jpg

and full lift
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1726.jpg

Much better with the spacers in. While I'm on the subject of rockers, when you setup your geometry make sure you check how the foot on the rocker meets the lash cap. You want it as close to the middle as possible but slightly offset. The idea behind this is that the action of the rocker sweeping across the lash cap will rotate the valve so that everything wears evenly and prevents the valve from developing hot spots.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1727.jpg

Now that the rockers are done it's on to the push rods. Pretty basic really. Use an adjustable push rod to find your ideal push rod length and then measure it. Then do it again. Why? The red mark on that cut push rod is why you measure twice and cut once. If I cut on the red mark I would have needed a new set of push rods and do it al over again. You can use a hack saw, dremel, band saw to cut them just make sure you de-burr them before you put the tips in. The best way to get the tips on is to use a pair of old lifters, one on each end, and hammer the tip in like that.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1728.jpg

When you put a motor together check and wash every part thoroughly even the fancy shmancy billet parts. These push rod tubes are brand new and they still had metal shavings and cutting lube in them.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1715.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1716.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1713.jpg

Looking good!
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1729.jpg

Couple shots of the sealing surfaces. These are using a softer silicon seal instead of a standard rubber one, we'll see how it holds up.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1731.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1732.jpg

Pretty close fit! Remember these would have rubbed if I hadn't spaced up the rocker blocks.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1736.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1735.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1734.jpg

Valve covers on and test fitting a type 4 cooler

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1741.jpg


A (not so)funny story real quick. While I was doing the rockers I kept turning the motor over and over on the stand. Well I didn't have a distributor on it and slowly the dizzy drive shaft backed out... (I think you all know where I'm headed with this). Well I turn the motor over on the stand and I hear this "tink-tink" and my heart just sank. I pulled the dizzy shaft out and I didn't see the washers at all. Checked every where on the ground just in case bu they were still loose in the motor. I found one of them resting on top of the cam timing gear, and got it out with a really long pair of needle nose pliers. The second one fell out after I pulled the sump plate and oil strainer. Whew! Lesson learned, don't get ahead of yourself!

UPS came by with a couple of big boxes that I emptied onto the living room floor
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1763.jpg

Back to the motor, I did final assembly, sealing the barrels to the block with some high temp copper permatex and safety wiring the cool tins in place
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1770.jpg


The EFI turbo kit from CB came with a thin line oil sump so than went on with the extention for the oil pickup.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1764.jpg

Close up of the 90 degree turbo oil return
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1766.jpg

Before bolting the heads on for the last time, I made sure to drill and tap the head by #3 and install the cylinder head temp sensor. This is for the fuel injection computer. For running a gauge I suggest a thermistor/washer that goes around a spark plug which will give a better temp reading.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1769.jpg

When I tried fitting the header, I ran into this problem. No way to get the nut on and fully seat the flange so I trimmed the stud on the white line.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1775.jpg

But that wasn't enough because I still couldn't get a nut on the thing. I wound up having to "persuade" the pipe with a hammer and drift to get additional clearance.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1779.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1793.jpg

Finally got the exhaust on and J-pipes in. You can also see the T adapter with the oil pressure sender, and the new HEI dizzy that came with the kit. Under the 1-2 side you can see the big external wastegate.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1777.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1778.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1785.jpg

Mounted the turbo... "It's F-in' huge" is an understatement. It's also really heavy. The turbo is a t04s cold side with a really big t3 hot side. It's kind of a tight fit to get the oil line routed away from the exhaust and the turbo, luckily that line goes out to the filters, cooler, and tank.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1780.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1786.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1784.jpg

Here's a couple shots underneath for the turbo drain. Pretty damn close to the exhaust again.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1781.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1782.jpg

Manifolds and throttle bodies in place. I think these are the same size as weber 48's, no venturis needed.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1787.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1790.jpg

Now everything mocked up
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1791.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...d/HPIM1792.jpg

At the moment I'm missing a set of pics that fall between this point and getting the motor in the car. I'm still trying to track them down and they might be on my friends camera.

Beautiful build!!!

(Apologies in advance as you probably know this, but mentioning it just in case)

...a word of warning about the dist drive issue you had...

You really need to VERY carefully inspect the brass drive gear on the crank.
What you described happening may have dorked up the brass gear, and it can///will cause serious problems if even slightly bent.

The drive gear is first out/last in, and NEVER in place if the flywheel comes off, as in setting end play and such...

super sweet build my dream motor in the works, super jealous. Hope it sounds sweet :D

Great build overview and pictures. One thing you might consider is relocating your oil pressure sending unit. If that is an Autometer piece, they don't seem to like vibration -- at least mine didn't. I ended up remote mounting mine under the parcel tray using a feed line off the tee (same as you did for the turbo oil feed). I've seen other mounted on the firewall or on the side of the engine bay... ;)

Great build going on.

A tip on getting that nut on the header. You can slide the flange on just enough for a few threads to show through, and start your nut on that one before the rest. (you didn't have to cut the stud)

Piledriver: I noticed that as well... for other reasons the motor had to come apart again and go back together so I checked the brass gear before reassembly. I didn't know about the last in/first out bit but it makes a lot of sense in retrospect.

Johnnyvee: oh there will be videos for everyone to see when this thing hits the dyno and in car footage shortly there after.

Kafer_Mike: I hadn't heard of problems with the oil pressure sender so thats good to know. Unfortunately mounting options are very limited because of intakes, cooling or lack of body work to attach it to. I'd also be worried about lower readings with a longer feed line as well. I'll definitely keep an eye on it though.

wrenchnride247: It's not really shown in the pic but when the header is on correctly (it wasn't for the pic) the exhaust stud was too long and the flange didn't touch the head. So I convinced the exhaust and head to play nice before ceramic coating, rather than scratch it off on assembly. For what it's worth, it was a real pain getting that nut on there during the build up but even worse trying to get it on there with the header wrap in place. :rolleyes:

Awesome thread!

thanks,

Nice build! I am sure that engine will absolutely rip when done and tuned.

Please try to keep inlet temps down as much as you can! I can't stress enough the importance of an intercooler of some sort or use water/mix injection. Maybe a future update :rolleyes:

Maybe you already mentioned this, but why do you use an extra sump plate when you have a dry-sump pump on there?

The sump plate is actually part of the turbo system so that the oil drains properly. I didn't want to run one but the turbo drains better this way. I might change to a different header and pull the sump off later but for now it stays.

Yeah, I hear you about inlet temps. A friend of mine is running a pretty small intercooler and water/ethanol injection on his miata. By the time the water mix kicks in he's 3C above ambient in the logs and below ambient while in boost with the water mix going. I don't think I'll be that well off with just water/ethanol mix but it's better than nothing. I really like what you did with your intercooler and I'd like to do something like that. Got any more detailed pics of your setup anywhere?