1952 GL update thread
 

Time for an update............

last update:
http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8853

The '52 project is slowly coming together. Whatever should be a quick job turns into something way longer. I either make something different, modify a existing part, or wait for parts to arrive. The following pics are from my phone. Some are better than others. Most are taken in my garage in the middle of the night. It's not out of place for me to be wrenching at till 4am. Actually i prefer it, as the music on the radio(100.7fm) after midnight keeps me motivated.

Will post updates over the next few days.

Pete

Here we go:

Test fitted the 2332 EFI turbo longblock. Had issues with the ARPM case not mating up to the Autocraft trans. Thought it was the trans input shaft bottoming out on the flanged crank. Tossed on my empty case from the blown 2332, it fit with no issues. Tried another trans with the ARPM case, no problem. Seems like the ARPM case and Autocraft trans are of the same size. So need to chamfer both.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...2.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...6.jpg~original

Bolted up the turbo header and the #4 exhaust pipe was hitting the body. Header is custom. Stainless under the apron for a T04 turbo. When it arrived, it was missing the #3-Jpipe. So had to wait for it to show. Will need to cut the flanges off the pipe, cut down the header, and reweld. You can see how far off it is bottom left of the pic.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...4.jpg~original

To give you an idea on timeline. I sent my turbo, and wastegate to California on March 12 '08. Finally header got done and i was to pick it up when in Vegas for the Bugoramma(Oct '08). Header box, with turbo didn't fit in rental car. ;) Parcel sent to Buffalo. Picked up from Buffalo. Missing pipe finally made it to my house in Jan 23 '09. Now i need to modify it cause it doesn't fit. :mad:

So since the turbo motor was taking forever, concentrated on getting the 2275 together. The A1 sidewinder exhaust didn't fit well. The #1Jpipe was quite a bit off and had to muscle it on. It was missing #1pipe) from the original shipment, and was sent afterwards. The rest of the header isn't sitting properly and leaking when bolted up. So need to cut that #1 flange off, reweld in the proper position to relieve the pressure, and get it ceramic coated again. Dammit....

Smoked a Pertronix in the dizzy when trying to fire it up. Bad new coil. Borrowed a 009/coil from Greg(TunedPerfection). Looking at a Mallory dizzy now.

The engine fired up really nice in my driveway. Should have good power, as the ATV lift left some divets in my driveway. :D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...7.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...3.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...0.jpg~original

Both headers interfere with the kafer brace drop bars to the frame horns. I had to remove them. They were setup for use with a Type4 motor. I will have to modify and reposition them later when the engine and driveshafts are in. Time to tear down the 2275, and install in the split. The DTM shroud will be cut above the valve covers. This will make them removable for the install in the narrow engine bay.

Here is the oil cooler mentioned in the other thread that has been flipped around to have the fittings face the front. When facing the rear, the fittings were too close to the beam and steering box. Aluminum angle was used to get it mounted to the beam/pan bolts.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...1.jpg~original

Trying to come to a decision if i should pull the hose out and do all the oil/gas plumbing in AN fittings and stainless braided hose. Need to decide this week.

Pete

Nice Work Buddy,
let me know about the AN fittings too and I Still get 10% off what I gave you...
can't wait to See more :D

Chris.

So long Pete...i'ts nice to see again this veeeery long and beautiful project back in to the seen!

Keep us updated and post more pics!

Jim

I would keep the hose Pete.
Stainless will rub and scratch the inner paint of the tunnel which was flooded with POR 15 btw.

You do not really see the hose either. If you must have stainless braided hoses do it in the engine compartment with AN connectors.

Just my opinion. In the NSU I will use stainless pipe thru the tunnel. The good thing about the NSU is that it has 3 access panels from the bottom of the tunnel so I can properly secure the pipes.

Alex

As far as the oil plumbing goes. I would bend up a pair of 1/2" ridged stainless lines (heavy gauge) to run from front to rear and use shorter lengths of hose at either end. The pressure flux and cooling will be better with a ridged line
Here is a pic of 3/8 lines for fuel but it is the same idea.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...1.jpg~original
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...4.jpg~original

Thanks for the comments. I had a fuel hose burst on the super the night before a criuse, what a mess. Was thinking the stainless braided would offer better protection, especially from the shift rod that moves around in the tunnel. I'm liking Dave's idea. Stainless pipe, with hose ends for flexability. How to secure inside the tunnel? I'll look at it today.

Pete

I secured my oil lines with a rectangular shaped washer from one of the pan bolts. Drilled a hole thru the tunnel, and sent a bolt thru the washer to hold the lines up against the side of the tunnel.

I can't post a pic of it for some reason...:confused:

Man what is it with you and J-tubes? Sweet project though, got any updated shots of the rest of the car? I'm really diggin' the atv stand for the motor and tranny, have you tried using it to get the drive train in and out of the car? Stainless or aluminum hard line is the way to go for fuel and oil to the front of the car. The easiest way to secure it is to use adel rubber insulated clamps which can be found in hardware stores or aircraft supply shops.

Hey Humble, i haven't used the stand for an install. My friend did a couple weeks ago for his '61. He said it was a real pain, and won't do it again. The motor was to secure. He couldn't move it around easily to get it lined up with the trans. I find with a regular pump jack, you can manhandle the longblock wherever you want.

Took a look inside the tunnel. 2 fuel, and 2 oil lines will be very tight around the nosecone of the 5spd. I'll grab a few small pipes tommorrow and see how/where they can fit in there.

Pete

Main wiring harness is now installed. There is only 1 guy that makes these pre-52 harnesses in his garage. He starts making them only when he gets a few orders. Harness is PVC wire, soldered, and cloth braided. Same as OEM. About 2yrs in the making, that was installed in January '09.

Pulled nylon twine throughout body to use as pullcords.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...2.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...9.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...1.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...5.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...7.jpg~original

I included some tricks of my own. Ceramic resistors to drop to 6V for the semaphores, that were found after looking in a few electronic junkyards around town. Rear tailights are dual circuit for running and brake lights. Need to terminate the rear lights, and headlights when installed.

Pete

If you have some line bending skills, you can bend the lines to tuck up in the body mounting bolt channel to run from front to rear and clamp them securly using some tabs at each body mount bolts. The pic I posted above was of a 912 that does not have the channel. I ran mine (fuel line) in the right channel so it would be protected. I will have to do 2 oil lines (1/2 inch) on the left side of mine when the oil cooler goes in the front bumper/spoiler. The heavy stainless is hell to flare for AN fittings. I bent everything then took it to a hydraulic shop to have them flared.

Pete, I was thinking of using the atv stand to remove the engine and tranny as an assembly rather than one at a time. It could make life simpler when I need to pull them out of the race car for re-work.

I'm sure you could.

You've made the rear apron removable, so it should slide right out as one assembly.

Didn't want to modify the dash for gauges. Bought a multifunction gauge to mount at the steering column with a Motometer holder. The gauge holder broke when i put the gauge in. :mad: So made a aluminum ring and bolted it to the Motometer center section. Need to polish it up now.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...5.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...8.jpg~original

gauge:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...2.jpg~original

"The E-3 can measure up to 4 EGT/CHT channels, a RPM input, a universal temperature sender input and a universal pressure sender input with a user programmable low/high alarm limits."

Need to wire up the motor and run a multiconductor cable to the steering column.

Pete

Got a set of BBS LM's out of Miami, last year. Found out they wouldn't fit without some thinking. The Remmelle hardware was hitting the inside of the wheel, so the wheel couldn't be bolted up. I was determined to make it work. Decided to try and make my own setup to allow clearance for the deep(ET65) rim/tire. I'm just finishing them up now, almost a year after starting them.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...4.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...7.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...8.jpg~original

Should i narrow up that springplate some more?
Need to do get them welded and coated. Thinking silver anodize/powdercoat. Local shops?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...1.jpg~original

Sooooo the 18x10 LM's will now fit. It's a very tight squeeze that will need some grinding of that 1 bolt.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...6.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...5.jpg~original

Will the sidewinder exhaust fit on the inside of that tire? Who knows...... We'll see.........

I can't get the front wheels on. The LM's have a slightly smaller lug hole than the Dyno's. The Dyno's have always been a bitch to pull on/off. The studs look a little off. Could be bent? or not seated properly. Guess i will have to pull off the front brakes, AGAIN, and get new studs. Or drill the LM holes the same size as the Dyno's. Pic below has the wheel just barely on the studs. Couldn't push it on.:(

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...3.jpg~original

Lanner from Vdub Engineering fixed the front hubs to get the spindle nut sitting flush. This is how they were. Didn't like that at all.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...5.jpg~original

Pete

I think the latter one: if its only a tiny bit out of perpendicular (sp?), it will not fit. If the machined faces of the studs are flat and perpendicular to the mounting surface of the center of the wheel mating area, you have this same problem.
The 'whacking' to drive the studs all the way to properly seat and be perfectly perpendicular is is scaringly great (ask me how I know...), so I can imagine this could be the (simple) cause.

Pete,

That bottom coilover bolt looks a tad long. There will be a substantial bending moment on the end of it particularly as you are exclusively using the coilover rather than torsion bars. Is there a clearance problem with the damper body on the alloy arm?

Clive

Pete your car is looking nice!
I like what you did with the oil cooler, are you going to go dry sump?

The project looks awesome Pete ! I can't wait to see you driving that beast.

Sandeep

Nice Work Buddy...
can't wait to See it out THIS summer ;)

Chris.

We'll see how she looks when i pull it apart this weekend. Put a steel nut on the stud, tapped it with a hammer, and it didn't move. Hopefully they are aren't bent. I'll get it in a arbor press next week, to make sure they are bottomed out *fingerscrossed*.

The coilover spring was binding on the AL arm, and the bolt without spacers was pinching the bottom spherical bearing not allowing it to move. So i spaced it out. Probably too much. :o When i get some weight in it, the uniball mounted and aligned, i'll have a better idea where the damper will sit. I'll then machine the spacers to get that bolt in further.

Not yet. The carb'd 2275 going in will be full flowed. The 2332T will be drysumped.

That's the plan. Friday's have become "work on the split day". I'm down to a 4-day work week.


Thanks for the comments guys! Appreciate it.


Pete

Looking at this pic, what are the 4 holes all about on the springplate?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...7.jpg~original

The 2 round ones on the left have regular bolts to bolt to the arm. The far right hole has what looks to be a camber bolt with a huge hex head on the inside. Does the middle hole stay empty? Does it need another bolt? I can't recall if i have this "camber bolt" on the drivers side. I'll have to look again. Is the Camber bolt used for setup, and them removed after cranking down the other 3.

Am i way off here?

Pete

I love seeing fat steamroller tires on a bug, it's just awesome. I don't know why but one of my favorite parts on your car is the CF crotch cooler doors. How much wider are the rear fenders? Keep up the good work and keep the progress pics coming :D

If i remember correctly, the fenders are 1.5inch wider.

The crotch coolers are just a carbon plate at the moment. I plan to make them functional flaps in the future. I have the grills and springs for them, just need to make the hinges and grill support. I like them too......

Looking REALLY nice, love the wheels.

Jason

The MSS carbon door panels didn't fit well, as they are a little undersized. Bought a set from CarbonJoe and they were worse for the ribbed doors. The CarbonJoe set fit the later doors well, so sold them to Chris(Chug-a-bug). So had to figure how to make these MSS's work. Mounting: The velcro kept on peeling off when it is hot, so figured stick it on with some silicone. Silicone would be a bitch to pull off if needed. Since the panels are undersized and show the original mounting holes on the door, i had to do something different.

Talked to Lanner at our local meeting. He said, make up some hardware to retain them. So this is what i came up with. Prototype below was made from a piece of Mycarta. Looked like it would work, so made them out of aluminum. Will have to trim the carbon down to fit properly within the hardware.

Went to Brafasco, Fabory, Metrican, and Fastenal trying to find something i could use to bolt up the door's blind holes. The couldn't think of anything. Grabbed a huge catalogue from Fastenal and found Rivet nuts. Tried them in one hole last week, didn't like them. Ordered Jam Nuts on Monday, and got them today. The outer diameter(wasn't specified) and ended up too big for the holes in the door. I'm not going to drill them bigger. Screwed around with a J-Clip and i think this will work. Need to grab some liquid rubber to cover them so they don't damage the door/paint on the inside.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...3.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...5.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...7.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...9.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...0.jpg~original

Mocked up:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...2.jpg~original

You can see above, if the mounting hardware wasn't there, the door's holes would be left exposed. The panels now need to be trimmed to fit the corner radius's and edges.

What do you guys think i should do with the plates? Wouldn't leaving them silver/polished be too much around the door?

I was thinking of anodizing them black with a polished or chromed fastner. Any ideas?

Pete

Sux that the panels don't fit the early car doors. I like the idea of the clips. Black anodizing would be a good finish for the aluminum clips with the stainless botton head fastener would be my pick. What if black rubber "U" trim was used around the edge? http://http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubb...annels/=1sq1hs

everything on your bug looks amazing! I could stare at your pics for hours...
Maybe you could anodise the clips a dark grey colour, to go with both the carbon fiber and the paint :)

Pete, I just saw your spring plate question and since I'm working on mine I'll fill you in. The 2 left holes are for bolts to tie the spring place and trailing arm together. The center hole is for the factory porsche camber/toe adjustment tool and stays open. The right hole is for a third securing bolt or the eccentric adjuster and drop link mount for the rear sway bar.

As for the trim and panel mounts, brilliant idea. For the finish though it depends on the rest of the interior. If there are going to be polished bits here and there, polish the retainers and like wise if there's brushed aluminum. But you don't want them to be polished if there's only one or two trim pieces in the interior that are polished. I'd say go with the black anodizing but keep the hardware in silver stainless.

nice job...
I'd say go with the black anodizing but keep the hardware in silver stainless.

Pete,

Wow, very nice ride.... I especially like the LM's beautiful.

Any thoughts on making a run of our style uniball setup? Food for thought.

Can't wait to see the finished product.
VR
Alex

By unanimous decision i'll be anodizing the plates black. :lmao:

I have stainless button heads, and have ordered some polished/chromed button head fastners too. The stainless button heads i have look dull. Should have it all together by the end of the week. We'll see how she looks.

Dave, i like the rubber u-channel idea for around the panel. I'll see if i can find some locally.

Post pics of your uniball setup Alex. Don't think we've seen them.

Pete

Pete,

I was typing too fast, OUR should have been YOUR..

I only have the GWD, spring plates, on 944 alum arms.

My mistake.. truely sorry for confusion
Alex

Headlights: Made some adapter plates to get the FX45 projectors in the H4 hole. Tons of trial and error, that lead to this:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...6.jpg~original

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...1.jpg~original

The Carbon backing plates, bezels, and adapter rings are done for the projectors. Adapter rings for the bezel to projector i made out of UHMW. The Bezels were ground down to sit flush with the backing plate. I need to fit/trim the thin carbon sheet i have for the inner headlight housing(where the turn signal light goes).

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...1.jpg~original

Have the Slim ballasts and modified D2S bulbs so everything can fit in the bucket. When mocking it up, found the fender buckets have been smoothed out. Went over to my friends house to check out his '61 rag headlights. Ahh......the fenders need mounting tabs! Bent up some thick shim stock and was starting to get it radius'd and figured it would be too much time/work. So do we cut them out a set of other fenders? Couldn't find a decent early pair as donors, so ordered a pair of replacement buckets. Should be here in a couple weeks.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/...5.jpg~original

I had bought speedster headlight grills, figuring it would fit over the glass as i've seen pics of this done before. It doesn't. I may grind the flange down to try and make it work, doubt it will. Went to a stained glass workshop to enquire about grinding down the lens to fit inside the grill. The glass shop foreman gave me the "go-away" price of $250 a lens.
Got in touch with a guy in Norway that has done this. He spaced out the lens into the fender from the headlight ring, using a fan belt as a spacer. I don't have room to do that. The projector is so close to the rear of the fender bucket, that i had to get custom ended D2S HID bulbs from a Taiwanese manufacturer to get it all to fit.

What should i use for a lens? Early VW fluted, VW clear, 911 glass?
I've also seen yellow 911 lenses from France. Pretty cool.....

Pete

Pete,

Don't forget that you (big) wheels need room inside the fender as well. They may touch anything that protrudes too much out of the headlight bucket..?

Personally I like 911 lights/glass in an early style fender ;)

Walter

nice work with the CF...
I love the way the yellow looks on the 911's go that way it's something really
Different :)

Chris.

I guess those projectors are going to be used with xenon (HID) bulbs, so as far as I know the only recommended lens is the "clearglass" one.

911 glass.

The projector will be very close to the lens. So the fluted lens should not affect the light beam.

Using the fluted, will make my details hard to see.

911 headlight glass looks like this:

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/309536.jpg

OEM yellow French lenses:

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/classi...ix/2644668.jpg