radiator question
hay guys just wondering what kind of radiators you guys are using in your Subaru conversions such as aftermarket aluminum ones or something retro fitted from another car just looking to get an idea of what size i need and how much $ i need to save up thanks for any info.
|
First, how much is your budget?
Look consider these things about subarus: 1. They get hot, trust me I own a WRX. 2. The engines aren't cheap- and the cheap ones are usually on their last leg 3. Have you beefed up your transaxle yet? 4. Taken into consideration that you are going to need a whole new CUSTOM exhaust/intake system? 5. Thought about the fact that you are going to need to do some SERIOUS electrical work to get that EFI system to sync up with your gauges. Its not just some drop in mod. Its a lot of work, and a lot of expensive work. To do a turbo one right- I would price it about... 10000 dollars easy. |
I'm using a pair of original Mini radiators in either side of the nose of my Ghia.
|
I had a 4 core rad built, however I could have easily made one work from another car. I just wanted one with very specific dimensions.
Quote:
1. I wouldn't say they run 'hot'. I have a EJ22 in my bus with the factory subaru rad and fans, and the ej20 turbo in my bug and both run right on 180F no matter how hard you're driving or how hot it is. 2. You can find good used engines for pretty decent prices, it just depends a lot on where you are though. 5. The electrical is a lot of time if you're up for it its not terrible to do, or you can buy a harness already cut and ready to go I agree a turbo conversion is much more expensive, but when I did my bus, I had $4000 to get it on the road including purchasing the bus that had been sitting for 20 years. You can definitely do it for less than $10,000 depending on what you can do yourself. If I were looking to do it on a serious budget I'd put a 2.2 SOHC in a beetle, requires the least amount of work (don't have to move transaxle, less stress on transaxle, and no engine bay cutting). Mike |
I did my Subaru Turbo Conversion for $3800 Aus, engineered & on the road. That was Xmas 2004 & it has done over 162,000klms since. Thats daily driving & track work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5KoIWijI84
They do not run hot, if they do, something is wrong with the cooling system. I used a Holden Camira Radiator layed on an angle in the spare wheel well with another smaller alloy radiator for the intercooler above it. If u do most of the work yourself u can save a fortune. there have been conversions in Australia that have run into the tens of thousands of dollars! all well & good if u have an open cheque book. Hope this helps regards Jak |
Also, will people please get more specific with the subaru engines!
I am sick of EJ20T, and SOHC STi! I am a former Subaru guy- Those two things dont exist! Subaru DOES NOT use the "T" that is a Nissan thing. STi engines are ALL DOHC. There are a TON of Subaru engines- be specific, because saying I got an STi engine means you could have one of about five or six engines that I can think of off the top of my head- 2.0s, 2.5s, single scroll, twin scroll, TGV system or non-TGV system. Also, for the record, unless the twin turbo (EJ20H/R/206/208- these being the four varieties) is sold in a vehicle in your country, don't bother. I have heard horror stories about those buggers. |
ear
Quote:
as far as a transmission my car is has a 901 5 speed thats stock i have another gear box im building for more power down the road but the 901 should hold up for now. Ive got the ecu figured out will be running a magasquirt system as far as gauges go i am modding my dash to use the Subaru gauge cluster from 05 wrx i was just curious as to what others were doing for a radiator just get ideas i think im going to uses a after market wrx aluminum radiator with two 12 fans just need to do some more measuring THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVISE AND HELP LOVE THE GERMANLOOK COMMUNITY:) |
I hope the caps weren't a sign of rage.
Ok, that is actually a great idea. Reason being those are the tougher crank cases. That might be best, just using the aftermarket. The WRX's stock fans have two speed settings- which I am guessing are programmed into the ECU. Getting two POWERFUL fans would keep it cool. Kudos for dropping the twin turbo system, those turbos are... bad. |
No the caps were a good sign i do mean it every one on the forums hear has been super helpfull love it
|
Quote:
No-one referred to EJ20T or SOHC STi! Please use your knowledge in a more pleasant and readable way. Antagonising people from who you may need useful information is counter productive.;) Quote:
Clive |
Agree with Jak,
they run cool as and dont need big radiator setups mine only has a tiny radiator from a 1.5L mazda it sits at 88c and never moves in 4000kms my fan has only come on twice |
It's more about getting cool air in and getting the hot air out properly rather than absolute radiator size...
|
ricola's capped it, and it needs stressing as "ducting is the key", a bug is not the ideal shape to have a top exit duct, but i have managed it, so everyone builds a 'bottom breather ' again, mine is les compromised as its a track car, but a high rad with a lean back angle makes it more efficient, slowing the air in the rad, and exposing more gill area to the air blast, a vertical rad is less efficient, the height helps coolant air bleeding. hope this helps..
|
thanks for all the advise guys! :)
|
I had mine custom made, it fits behind the spare tire well and in front of the frame head, only possible with the suspension I have.
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/399334.jpg Ducting is a HUGE part of cooling, and even though my radiator is relatively small, it hasn't been a problem with cooling, mostly do to ducting, as the radiator never sees clean air tucked up under the front end. http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/241582.jpg http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/680177.jpg Excuse the ugly gun barrels... but this scoop gathers up a lot of air and forces it through the rad. http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/247656.jpg The other issue not mentioned here is BLEEDING the system. If there are air bubbles trapped it doesnt matter how big the rad is or how well it is ducted. Here is my bleed area on the high point up front. http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/247653.jpg Here's where I ran the coolant lines. They are in air flow so they aid in cooling, are easy to get to and protected http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/266772.jpg This is how the lines are currently attached, in the previous pics I had just mocked them up. This method is really simple and effective, I used a Dremel and a cutoff wheel from the inside to create the slots to run the hose clamp through. http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/680175.jpg Jason |
Would a rad in the stock grille on the rear of the car work? or is there too much negative pressure back there for it to cool correctly?
|
Quote:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...6.jpg~original http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...5.jpg~original |
Gotcha, the only reason i asked is because i will be running fenderless and im not sure what i can do to hide a radiator and lines. What about something in the side of the car with a Porsche-esque duct in the rear quarter panel? :crazy_eyes:
Or better yet, a little scoop in the windshield like the 1/4 milers do, routed inside the roof to the rear, through the rad and out the grille on the back? :yes: |
yes, something like that will work if your not hamstrung by rules and regulations, or it could be out the back in a 'wing', I've seen a buggy on here like that, or maybe shoptalk forums , do a search. but for me, that's too vulnerable,.. all you need is good air in and better air out, a nice high bleeding point somewhere in the line. i use front mount also for weight distribution, i also like a stock (ish) look to it all, until you look closely anyway..
|
From what I see most of you run a Super, which has a nice big nose to stuff a radiator.
I run a standard with a Golf GTI radiator up front, (EJ25 non-turbo), and the motor runs upto 210 degrees usually :( Anybody here has pics of a radiator in a standard ? Would an external oil cooler help ? Rob. |
If the seam between the apron and floor of the tire well is cut, then the metal bent down to act as a duct, a lot of air can be forced/gathered.
Then the cool air has to be sealed/ducted to be forced through the rad. Finally, the area behind the rad on the back wall of the spared tire and below the gas tank has to be swiss cheesed or at least opened up enough to allow the hot air to escape. A push fan can be added to the front of the rad, or if the rad can be placed away from the back wall, a pull fan behind, to get the airflow if not travelling. You'll end up with a much more subtle look than the common "nostril" effect of cutting holes in the hood, much more sleeper. The area in the spare tire well is large enough to get a large radiator in, and a custom aluminum with enough water volume should keep it happy. The 2 keys are: - sealed ducting to trap and force any airflow through the rad and allow it to escape out the back side - making sure you've completely eliminated any trapped air in the coolant line. http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/682110.jpg Here is one in action. It doesn't have enough ducting in my opinion, but they've cut the whole area out behind the rad. They went with the in-betwee aproach to air inlet by cutting out the front of the apron instead of the hood, but it's still obvious compared with just adjusting the floor of the tire well. He's running 280hp BTW. http://germanlook.net/forums/attachm...2&d=1220296940 |
|
The cover and ducting on the second picture seems about right, but you don't have to have the air being forced from the front like that, it's ugly IMO. If you just scoop up the air going past the bottom you'll gather plenty, as long as it can only go through the rad. Trying not to repost here, but if the inside looks like that and the outside looks like this
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/680177.jpg and you've got a hole in the bottom of the spare tire well to let the air into the radiator chamber, you're good to go. |
Spanner any details on your drop links on the rear sway bar.. can you PM me so not to disrupt the thread?
Thanks Alex |
Quote:
on my black 70 just had 3 holes cut out as big as possible and a small scoop underneath but it didnt hang down real low http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...5.jpg~original also what is the setup with your pipework? metal pipes underneath in the road draft have a huge effect on cooling |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:48. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
© www.GermanLook.net 2002-2017. All Rights Reserved