home made parts
 

What parts have people made for the GL Bug that either just don't exsist or are too expensive to buy ?

thinking of making some rose jointed coilover conversion spring plates... like remmelle, la performance or eagle performance.

chris

I have already made this parts. do you want the cad drawings?

Edit: I also made moulds for the air intakes on the C-pilars on my car.
And the air intake i front apron
and the hood...!
side view mirrors with LED lights
and more.

Hi, what do you mean by rose joint coil oves

things like these

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...n.jpg~original

they stop the lateral movements of spring plates whilst not having tporsion bars, but still retain the twisting and up/down movement needed for the suspension.

Turbo Haraune2 - did this prove a cost effective way of doing it, getting them laser cut etc as a one off ?

chris

Mine are made of aluminium with stainless steel plate against A-arm.
Much more complex design.

Those things you show there is going to break or bend under extra power from big engine. Ok for a sunday driver thoug.

Cost efficent? No not if you count your work hours.
but if you have acces to milling machine and lots of spare time, yes it is.

Mine look like this:
http://v-dubs.no/haraune/album12/photos/photo_15.html

where would they bend and break ? at the rose joint bolt possibaly ?

chris

Most likely the fastening of the bolt would rip of. or the bolt trough the uniball breaks. The bolt holding the uniball needs to be supported on both sides.

I have already bendt one turnbuckle assy due to overload, so i changed to harder material in the treaded part.

turnbuckle ? the threaded part in between the torsion housing plate and the trailing arm plate which defines the toe-in / out ?

also in your opinion would 3mm mild steel be strong enough for the laser cut items ?

chris

Yes the threaded part bendt. it was made of 304 steel i think, but i changed to 316 ss.
3mm is not enough.. at least use stainless steel. and make a sandwich type construction. with spacers between plates with same size as the uniball.

what would be the min thickness of steel for the job ?

i thought that stainless was more britle and mild steel ?

whats the threaded part called ?

chris

sorry for all the questions

Depending of your setup, engine brakes suspension.
At least use 5mm good quality steel.
Stainless steel is more soft and would stretch more before it cracks.so i prefer that. then you can make it thinner too.

Hardened steel is the more brittle one. like cast steel.
dont know what you call the threaded part,but i made it myself. linx threads in one end

engine subaru wrx 270bhp ish
brakes front tarox 6 pot, rear porsche 993 brembo's
suspension rear pro-tech coilovers (400lb springs)

cheers for all your help

c how i get on

chris

Hi

I cant tell by the pictures shown, but it looks like they only rely on the 4 bolts to secure it to the torsion bar housing. They need a boss so that the load is transferred to the torsion housing and not just the 4 bolts.

Steve

I have the Eagle Performance part, and it spigots into the torsion bar tube. The idea is to take the load on the torsion tube, but the fit in my 40 year old corroded tube is not so great, and I question on how well this will work.
Current thought is to attach with grade 12.9 Allen bolts and TIG to the torsion casting.

The thread engagement on the heim end joint is about 25mm. A bit more thread would be nice.

I got straight plates for a 944 and not a Beetle with offset plates as shown in the pic. I think he was confused by my 944 arms so be very careful when ordering. The plates are now in Thailand and the freight to bring in offset plates is more than the part.
All I can do is use a spacer or get new plates made here

Turbo Haraune2 - What trailing were they designed for ? steels or alloy ?

CAD drawings, what did you want for them ?

chris