Hey Dave thanks For the recommedtion, But I do have a Bar that Runs
Between the B pilars to Hang my Beats...

Chris.

The bar should be as close to the seats as possible, which typically requires a second bar over the harness bar.

-D

Dave, if the seat is going to move backwards then the thing won't be attached to anything so its almost pointless having a bar there! They are however, perfectly strong enough in bending so that the back won't separate from the squab. The Sparco Clubman Sprint tubular frame seat is bottom fixed so it can be attached to standard sliding rails that then have to be fitted to a tubular subframe to attach to the floor pan. IMO the standard bug floor pan is only just strong enough to cope with a seat subframe and even so would need big load spreading washers on the underside of the pan. The latest aftermarket pans are however, woefully thin and without substantial additional strengthening would not be srong enough in a severe accident. VW did very sensibly locate the seat fixings to the sides of the heater channel and tunnel that are very much stronger and therefore I have done the same with my seat installation. Also, with standard sliding rails I always weld a pair of small steel hoops around the rails to prevent catastrophic separation in an accident.

evilC

Hey guys just had the car out to take some Pics
and the White 72 Std is my Friends...
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...8.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...8.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...6.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...8.jpg~original

Soo just a few things that I have Been up to this Spring...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...2.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...3.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...6.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...5.jpg~original

will post more tomorrow

Sooo I Started the body work and I'm waiting on the my Fiber glass
fenders that should be in the week some time, the deck lid came in the other day
and was order at the same time as the fenders... but didn't get them in oh well,
this is what I have done So far it's going in for paint Soon too :) to match the Green
on the inside.. it's going to look hot.
and I Seen just the other day Someone Stole my porsche Lugnuts, but only on the one wheel, hmmmmmm weird
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...4.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...3.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...2.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1.jpg~original



Chris.

Soo I have an Update...
al Fenders are on and Looking Good got the DrySump and Oil Cooler all done and Started the Motor Runs Great... Going For Paint Next week I'll Post pic when I get it back :)

the B4 pics:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...7.jpg~original
getting the air intake Box paint the Same as the car. that's why it looks not done lol
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...8.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...9.jpg~original

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0.jpg~original
that's all for Now

Chris.

So far so good! A lot of that stuff looks familiar so I'll let you in on a few issues I ran into.

-The CB pump works awesome but make sure there's a good seal between the pump and the block or it'll leak.
-The sump tank in the car is mounted too high (guess how I know) but I see you have a manual valve on it. It will gravity feed into the block and fill it if you ever forget to turn off the valve. I don't think I need to tell you what happens if you forget to turn it back on. I thought about doing the valve setup like you but found it easier to lower the tank vs adding procedures.
-The power pulley is way small, like really, really small. I ran into charging problems and dead batteries because average (read: non race speed) driving wasn't turning enough revs to charge the battery. I swapped to a new pulley (had to turn down the back face of it 1/8 inch) and used a spacer to clear the dry sump pump.

BTW, fenders are looking great! What wheels do you have in mind to fill them?

Wow, that IS a lot of fender to fill!!!

Isn't there a one way valve you can put inline so the oil only flows one way so you don't have to worry about oil bleeding back OR not turning on the valve?

Did you do the windows yourself? What material did you use for them?

The muffler looks a little precarious, is that where it's going to end up?

Jason

Lot's of questions, sorry!!!

Chris where did you get that Sparco wheel? I want one.... how much?

See-ya in South Carolina this weekend.:beer:

thanks for the Comments guys...

Humble, thanks for the Info I have No leaks at the block and the pump Sealed up nice and good I guess, I'm going to put a switch on the tank valve so it wont let me turn the car over
B4 opening it So I don't kill the motor... As for the pulley it's only 5 1/4" and I changed the Alt pulley to a Smaller 356 pulley and oil temps are GREAT :)
and For Wheels I have a set of 17X8 BBS RC painted gold.
Jason...
did the Windows myself it's just Lexan took the old window and copied it Fits great :)
and the Muffler you guys are going to love this but ti was something Different, but it's from a GSXR 750 and ya with the 3" wider fenders it looks just fine... and I brang it up tighter to teh fender after it's all Done

Pete got the Wheel off Ebay. think it was about $260ish US well worth it :D

also Have an update... have abit of an oil Leak at the Coolers and From the AN fittings :S soo have some new ones and I'll try them, and the oil pressure gauge went for a Crap same with the 5 year old Tach... So hoping for some nice weather to fix them tomorrow then Off to paint tue or wed... I'll post pics when it's all done
thanks again

Chris

your cars lookin real good. where did you get the fenders, and how much wider are they? cars gonna look killer! also... i have to ask the dumb question (i dint know much about the systems), but whats the bennifit of running a dry sump and whats the cost to convert? sorry for the questions. i love learning...lol!

thanks Cook...

Soo the front fenders are 2 1/2" wider the Stock and the back are 3" then Stock.
and I got them from Creative Car Craft

The HowStuffWorks article on car engines shows you where the sump is -- it's the area below the crank shaft. In a wet sump, the oil that you put into the engine is stored beneath the crankshaft in the oil pan. This pan has to be large and deep enough to hold four to six quarts of oil -- think about two 3-liter bottles of soda and you can see that this storage area is pretty big.

In a wet sump, the oil pump sucks oil from the bottom of the oil pan through a tube, and then pumps it to the rest of the engine.

In a dry sump, extra oil is stored in a tank outside the engine rather than in the oil pan. There are at least two oil pumps in a dry sump -- one pulls oil from the sump and sends it to the tank, and the other takes oil from the tank and sends it to lubricate the engine. The minimum amount of oil possible remains in the engine.

Dry sump systems have several important advantages over wet sumps:

* Because a dry sump does not need to have an oil pan big enough to hold the oil under the engine, the main mass of the engine can be placed lower in the vehicle. This helps lower the center of gravity and can also help aerodynamics (by allowing a lower hoodline).

* The oil capacity of a dry sump can be as big as you want. The tank holding the oil can be placed anywhere on the vehicle.

* In a wet sump, turning, braking and acceleration can cause the oil to pool on one side of the engine. This sloshing can dip the crankshaft into the oil as it turns or uncover the pump's pick-up tube.

* Excess oil around the crankshaft in a wet sump can get on the shaft and cut horsepower. Some people claim improvements of as much as 15 horsepower by switching to a dry sump.

The disadvantage of the dry sump is the increased weight, complexity and cost from the extra pump and the tank -- but that's a small price to pay for such big benefits!


Chris

wow.. thats cool. very informative! thank you. i might look into going dry sump!!! where can i get a set up like that?

thanks again for schooling me! what color you gonna paint the car?

The other disadvantage of a dry sump, installed INSIDE the car, is the radiant heat from the oil tank(specially if it is Aliminium to save on that extra weight). But then again, some people can live with that ;)