Flat 6 in the bus Split
 

I bought a COMBI SPLIT 15 WINDOWS. But i want put the flat 6 porsche AIRCO with the porsche gearbox with the IRS SYSTEM and the rear axle of 944
Can you help me for find the kit for this conversion ?

Regards

Pascal

Kit... None.

You are going to haver to hack the piss out of your bus to fit all that stuff in it.

Oil tank. Wide and long flat 6. Not to mention the bigger 915 tranny hassle. Also for the IRS stick with steal arms, any AL ones will make it too wide.

Forget it or open the wallet very wide.

Best if he had a 74 up bus then it would be easy. Better yet a vanagon would solve all problems. Flat 6 are much easier to put in a vanagon. Has being done here in jamaica.

I have the same question regarding fitting the flatsix into a splitty. My engine is a 1969 2,0l engine and I had planned on using a 1303S IRS gearbox. 944 steel trailingarms and brakes. Pros and cons? Do I swap the nosecone from the IRS gearbox to the one from the stock splitty swingaxle gearbox?

Dont ask why I just settle with the 2,0l. That question have been asked before and I answer it by saying that it is what I have in store and secondly that would be the maximum displacement increase allowed in Finland for a splitty... ;) :agree:

I suspect that if I have a good superbeetle gearbox it will cope with the moderate poweroutput from the small flatsix. I'm not building this for racing just building it because I like the combination of a splitty and the porka sound.. :cool:

Unfortunately my -69 911 engine did not have any flywheel when I bought it. What I would appreciate find some info about is if I could use a post-69 911flywheel in combination with the 1303S gearbox? The reason I ask this is that the pre-69 flywheels are priced as they were made out of Platinum compared to later ones...:eek:

Just like this:

http://web3.ichwobbledich.com/cms/im...r/28car_gr.JPG

http://web3.ichwobbledich.com/cms/im...lame1_gr12.JPG

one was featured in hot vws a few months ago its owned by Geoff?? that used to work at airspeed parts in british columbia......if you vist there site there is a complete build procces.
http://www.airspeedparts.com/communi...hp?act=SF&f=20

Thanks, I know Geoff from volksrods.com. We've got the same interests He built his Hebrod with inspiration from my unfinished Hebster project too.. ;)

We've discussed this through e-mails too. He's got a Porsche transmission too if I dont remember totally wrong.

This is how nice the 911 flatsix fits to a 1303S transmission.. :cool:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...3.jpg~original

I started to relocate the transmisson 30mm forward and removed the original front mount.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/galler...1.jpg~original
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/galler...2.jpg~original

Then begun to make my own "Berg-mount", just having some thoughts and worries about the engine and transmission hanging on the rubber mounts... So I have now two options for the Berg-mount...

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9.../Bergmount.jpg

The reason for me to concider the upper mount is that I'm worried about the weight pulling the mounts if they are mounted from the under side...? Maybe I shouldn't worry too much?
It would be just like the 911's have it originally too...

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...2.jpg~original

Hi

It would be better to have the mounts in compression, that way if they fail, they only move around, not drop everything on the road.

Steve

In other words like the upper version then? That was the main reason I concidered that design too..

I just assumed that the weight of the transmission and engine would be more stress to the mount than the power the transmission tend to press the nose upwards when accelerating?

hey just my thoughts on this I too think the upper version would
be better just use some Good 1/4" Plate and Guset the **** out of it lol
plus like what Steve C said it would just Hang it it did Brake, and Not fall to the ground. Just my to cents.

Chris.

The top mount version would provide safety if the mount failed, but would seem to make removing the tranny quite a bit more difficult, as well, when the tranny is loaded during acceleration, the top mount will be in expansion, not compression, and this force is going to be working every time you accelerate.

As well, as I recall, those mounts have a bolt running through them, not just into the rubber, so the safety is there regardless? Might want to look at more modern motor and tranny mounts, if your fabbing up might as well make use of something with a better design?

My 2 cents...

Jason

Not so sure that's a sound replacement for hacking out the middle of the torsion tube. The top square tube is welded to thin sheetmetal with no additional plate to spread the stress. That will fatigue in no time IMO.

Jason