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Wasting no time...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2b6801ae_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...694696a2_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...764d1b96_c.jpg It's slightly before this point that things took a bit of a turn for the worse... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7a7d9879_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f6579a8c_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c8853d46_c.jpg I couldn't afford to rebuild the 901 gearbox when I built the Rally Bug, figured that if it was "bad" I would rebuild it down the road. It's always been rough/notchy getting it into 1st or reverse (common problem) but I didn't think it was was that bad. The Hargett Shifter had developed some play, Mark was going to send me some parts, but it never seemed to happen...lightly clipping reverse would happen occasionally while looking for 2nd. I knew it wasn't great for the internals, but it was not that common. Here's the rub. If this is 300,000km and 12 years on this fluid, it's kinda not the worst. But I think this is only 150,000km on this fluid change. Regardless, it's well overdue for a rebuild. I've got the tools and the knowledge. The "middle of the road kit that replaces the wear items in the transmission from shifting use as well as the bearings that usually exhibit wear from age." is $1500 USD, or $2k Canadian. Ouch. But this really is the time to do it with the box out of the car. There is a part of me that is heavily considering just popping a 4spd Beetle box into the car "for now". Of course, we probably know that would end up permanent. At least I have a lot of time to consider this one :P Call it a hunch...but I think the drivers side axle might be just a hair too long? No marks on the axle end though... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c67d1727_c.jpg |
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f50eb749_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9e0c2a11_c.jpg Found a few spots in the body that need to be taken care of...plus I snapped off three fender bolts on the left-front corner. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0d0f1a65_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7eacf241_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8b894638_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4c4f1061_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...135bae27_c.jpg Bob came over and welded in the turn signal holes. Going to go with the Mexi-bumper setup. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8784cddd_c.jpg Still a lot of work to be done here... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3505cdd1_c.jpg But it's at about this point that I got a bit of a crazy idea, which is probably going to be a little controversial. I'm pulling a fair bit of budget out of the Family Heirloom project to repaint and rewire the Rally Bug, and with the transmission sitting on the floor I started to think about something. The one thing I really want in the Family Heirloom is a five speed Porsche transmission. It's a no-go due to two reasons: a) budget. I'm just not prepared to buy and rebuild a Porsche trans for the car. b) it requires cutting out the torsion bar splines on the inside to mount it where I want it. Thus negating the "can always go back to stock" ethos. Well, I've decided that it probably doesn't matter. Let's be honest, it's never going back to stock while I'm the owner of it! If I were to pull the 901 gearbox and the rally bug, fuel injected, motor for the '75 Heirloom project, it would be the perfect setup for that car. But what about the Rally Bug? In some ways, I kind of feel like the Salzburg replica has served its purpose. I've had a good 11-12 years of enjoyment of it, it's had all its magazine features, but it's not doing anything more than just being stagnant. Swapping over the Subaru wheels pretty much ended the "replica" part, so can I experiment further?? I was shuffling cars in the storage area of my property, and scrapping some parts cars that have fulfilled their purpose and overstayed their welcome...when it hit me. I have a complete Subaru setup waiting to go in a Beetle. I bought the kit necessary to do either a 2.5 naturally aspirated setup, OR the twin cam WRX setup. As part of the car shuffling, I had the scrapper yank out the engine and transmission of one so I have a 2.5 RS core motor (to go with everything else I pulled from an earlier car). I recently traded my EZ30 six-cylinder to a buddy for his WRX motor...so I've got a turbo option as well. So, yeah, going to go Subaru in the Rally Bug, thus giving me the aircooled engine/trans setup for the Family Heirloom. Settles the budget issues for me, but totally sets me back timewise! Ha. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...76872082_c.jpg |
that was a big plot twist....
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From a usability perspective you wont regret going Subaru. I have over 3000 miles on my subaru swap now and its makes the car much more livable. It doesn't leak, the factory fuel injection ecu works reliably, and its enough power. Definitely work to have the cooling system installed but in my eyes worth it.
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@72Marinablue. Are you using the factory ecu?
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Hi
Welcome to the dark side. If I can help in anyway let me know. I've made a few errors and found better ways to do things over the years. Cheers Steve |
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Currently trying to find good photos of a radiator setup that I can acquire the bits for in North America… |
maybe something like this?
https://www.csp-shop.com/en/brand-sh...sd-29965b.html I dont know if it has the amount of cooling surface as needed, but in this way you won't be modifying your trunk/front. |
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Hi
My latest radiator is from a 944 Porsche in all aluminium. I have used Audi 100/200 ones in past. I've used Audi fans with the Audi fan housing which work pretty good. On the 944 radiator that I'm using now I tried an unshrouded fan which wasn't very good. I'm now using twin 11 inch Spal fans which have an amazing amount of airflow. They came with a fan housing that I needed to trim to fit the 944 radiator. You can tilt the radiator so that it sits lower and is supposed to make the radiator work more efficiently. You need to use a radiator as wide as possible and seal around the radiator so that all incoming air goes through it. Cheers Steve link to fans that I used https://thermofans.com.au/collection...roducts/ef3580 |
Time for an update! I was off traveling for a friend's wedding, and the shop is getting way too full with multiple beetles exploded...but here we are.
The welding on the body shell is now complete. I have my buddy Bob to thank for that. For some odd reason he really enjoys thin sheet-metal welding. He must be ill or something :P https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...323112b0_c.jpg While waiting for the 'ok' to run the car down to the body shop, I've tried to start dealing with a number of the items needed on the Subaru swap. I pulled out my bins of Subaru-Swap items, and discovered that I don't actually have everything that I need for the swap. It looks like I (likely) scrapped the motor that came out of my donor, probably when I moved seven years ago. At the time I had one or two running Subarus that I was using as 'daily drivers' so it would have seemed logical. But one of those Subarus, my wagon, is a 2.5i engine with variable valve timing and the drive-by-wire throttle. Neither of which I want in the car. My '05 that we just yanked the motor out of, rats had destroyed the wiring harness in many places...so it's just a good core longblock I can use. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ca48b7d4_c.jpg In doing some detailed research, I need to have the following from the same car: Wiring harness, under dash harness, intake manifold, cam/crank gears, intake wiring harness. Hmph. In my current stash: - Wiring harness from a 2002 - missing the "intake harness". - Engine and intake from a 2005 DBW - missing the intake harness (rats) - A boat load of rebuild parts and timing belt kit to match the 2005. This leads me to three options: find yet another Subaru donor to strip, find a parts car / wrecking yard that has the right year/model for me to pull my missing bits from, or just accept DBW and variable valve timing and part out my wagon. Hmmmmm. As I was contemplating this, a guy walked up to me at the car wash in town and asked "Hey, any chance you need a parts car?" Um, yes? So I have a tentative deal on a running, driving, Subaru Legacy. More updates soon! On the transmission side, I have two transmissions to work with (currently). The first is a "known good transmission" I purchased from a local rally shop, and the second is the one I just pulled out of my 2.5RS Rat-infested parts car. The rally shop transmission is most desirable, because it has the diff-studs that I need for use with the Subarugears parts...so lets open it up! The fact that there are broken parts floating around the centre diff, not a great start... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b67487b1_c.jpg We haven't even gotten to the drain plug at this point...but pulling good sized metal bits out of cavities here does not bode well. Sharpie for scale. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...213b0794_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...23449470_c.jpg Ahhh, there's your problem. It would appear that 3rd gear has left the building. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ca208f6a_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c1818a1c_c.jpg The rear diff casing has a good score mark on it, but may still be okay to swap over into my newer transmission. I may also just take the circlip axle stubs and see if they will fit in the spring-clip front diff. I can't find any definitive answers as to whether this is OK or not. But onto the second gearbox... https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3eed15c0_c.jpg This one is fortunately clean inside, and has all the teeth where they should be. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7278661f_c.jpg Unfortunately, the speed sensor was damaged, and seized to the case. The whole assembly came out in pieces, and I have to find an exploded parts diagram and manual to figure out how to pull the GOOD pieces out of the parts transmission to put into this one. I also may need to buy a really large tap to clean out the threads for it, because I can't seem to get them clean with a pick and brush, and don't want to damage the aluminum case. So that's where I'm at. Body ready for the body shop (but haven't heard back that they are good to take it)...can't start on the floor pan because my shop is out of space. And four steps backwards on the Subaru swap :P -Dave |
Let the case modifications begin! The Subarugears written directions are pretty poor, but his Youtube video on the modifications is quite complete. I'm a read/manual kinda guy, so I find it frustrating to have to pull up the YouTube video multiple times if I need to check something...but alas, I guess I'm old now :P
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...74d73f89_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...14985305_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6db7b5f2_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...69a42500_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4ed9a0e8_c.jpg With the case ready, it was onto swapping out the pinion shaft, which is actually really really easy with the Subaru transmission. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...48e182c4_c.jpg The pinion shaft is then shimmed to set the pinion depth. The Subarugears kit includes the tool needed to do this, but you have to buy the shims from Subaru. With two transmission torn down, I had enough shims to get close...but not perfect. I messaged Todd with a photo, asking if 0.05mm was close enough to zero, or did I need to get it zero'd out. He replied to ignore the tool, and simply check it with the "stock shims you took out". Uh, okay? Why include the tool then? Anyways...we'll come back to that, because it's hilariously annoying. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...37de612c_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...754720bc_c.jpg The next step is to mark the ring gear with grease, and assemble the transmission, torquing the case bolts to spec. You then adjust for backlash, set the bearing preload, rotate the transmission a bunch of times, and tear it all apart. Take a look at where you are at with the grease markings, reassemble and repeat. If (like me) you've never done this before, it helps to dance a tribute to the gear mesh gods, pray, sacrifice a beer on the floor (that may have just been me knocking it over), and any other spiritual things you may think will help the situation. The biggest key, however, is to focus on one measurement at a time and only change one thing in between case tear-downs, so you can learn how each adjustment changes the mesh pattern. Ultimately you need to setup pinion depth and backlash, but changing one changes the other...so don't attempt too many things at once! Three assembly/teardowns later, and if you're doing really well you end up with some patterns like this: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...03fa23e6_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d0c4be91_c.jpg I thought I was pretty much spot on, but it looks as though my gear mesh is a little loose (pattern too high on the tooth). Thing is, I'm measuring 0.005" backlash, and spec is 0.005-0.007. So if it's not the backlash, that tells me that perhaps I want to be just a touch tighter on the pinion depth. Checked with a bunch of buddies who know these things better than I do, and they all agreed I could run it as is, but maybe try and move the pinion a hair just to see. So at this point, since I figured I was almost spot-on, I'd ask Todd what he thought. "Looks excellent, but you should move the pinion a touch. We find that 0.45mm of shims is usually the right spec." I'm sorry, what? Why didn't you tell me that five hours ago when I asked about the shims!?! ARGG! I could have had it spot on tonight if he had. I mean, not really that big of a deal. I learned a lot, and I'm very fortunate that the guy who sells the parts replies so readily. Just hilarious considering the time frame. But at that stage, it was 11pm, and I figured I'd be smarter to go to bed and deal with it tomorrow... -Dave |
Haven't been out in the shop to finalize the transmission setup, time of year and all. But I did hit a major milestone yesterday!
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You're my semi-inspiration for planning my soon, future dedicated autocross/track day car. Semi, because it won't be a rally car. Looks great!
H2OSB |
Nice work Dave!
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---- Stopped in at the body shop right after the holidays. As I suspected, they sort of misunderstood the "tape and spray" quality expectations. But, I know they are balancing the "our shop name is on this job" too. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c1697b6a_c.jpg The hood, for example, was what I would consider to be a "perfect" factory hood with factory paint. I mean, just scuff that puppy and spray it! Nope. Not flat enough for them. :P On the same token, they are taking the time to fix the stuff that really should be fixed. Various parts of the shell have been highlighting for blasting, and you can see a bit of the work they've done to repair all the rally-rash on the fenders. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...234c04e0_c.jpg In sandblasting, however, they discovered an absolute horror I had no idea about. There was a pinhole rust bubble in the front apron, which I knew they would pull out...but that snowballed into discovering this interesting repair. Apparently the front apron was basically bondo...which amazingly never cracked or fell out?! Looks to me like someone backed a trailer into the car, and then did a quickie fix to get it out the door. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...78703c7c_c.jpg I offered to pull the factory apron off my '73, but the vent area needs a little bit of straightening, and we agreed that the most cost-effective way to fix this would be to simply drop a Klokkercrap panel into the car. With the Kamei spoiler, you see very little of the apron and we're going to be cutting up the front end of the car after paint for the radiator setup. So...it's a smart spot to save a few pennies. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...be1d1de4_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6945130a_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2b973ca1_c.jpg When I built the Rally Bug 13 years ago, I desperately wanted to put some carbon bits in the interior of the car. I wasn't in the position to afford them, but was going to figure out how to make it happen. At that time, however, Carbon Joe had sort of 'disappeared' and wasn't producing anything. I had missed the boat. A few months back, a Carbon front splitter was posted on TheSamba and I literally pulled the car over to the side of the road and jumped on buying it (for the '75 project). I realized pretty quickly that it was Carbon Joe selling it, and inquired if this was New Old Stock, or was he reproducing. We discussed my interests, quantities, and (if I'm completely honest) told him how much a young Dave desperately wanted some Carbon Joe bits for his first and second builds. So far I've got the splitter, headlight rings and carbon dash from the list of parts I've asked him for. Each transaction has been fantastic, and I can't wait to see the rest of the bits when they show up. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cc60c010_c.jpg The fit is incredible, and I think I've decided that this one is actually going to go into the Rally Bug (not the '75 as tested here). https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7f0d1ea0_c.jpg That got me falling down the rabbit hole of what do I want the dash to actually look like? For the Subaru swap I only need a tach, speedometer, fuel gauge, and water temp...everything else is basically 'extra'. With the carbon dash, I also want to try and 'clean it up' and go with a simple setup, and as few switches as possible. I've been exploring digital dash panels, and PDMs (power distribution modules)...I'd love to fully modernize the cars electrical system. I just don't think I'm willing to swing the budget to make it happen. It starts off looking like $1500-2k, but by the time you actually go and design the system and price it out to the final connector...it's $4-6k CAD. Considering I don’t really do track days, and thus the datalogging side of it is pretty useless to me, it’s a big spend. Probably convinced myself not to do it, in lieu of standard gauges. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0d1e4117_c.jpg I have started to rethink the floorpan, however, and cut off all the mounts for everything so I can start completely fresh. New pedal box, possibly flipping the shift assembly back around, and figuring out if I want the vertical hydraulic handbrake, or going back to a horizontal unit. I’m also going to completely redo the seat mounts. In the lower left you can see some 3D printed switch panel options, which I’ve been playing around with whether I can make them fit. One is simply a switch box, while the other is a PDM that has a number of additional features that are quite desirable. But $$$$ :P https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e...082a37~mv2.jpg If I do go with standard gauges, I will need some switches in the dash. This is pretty much the best option I’ve found so far, in trying to keep the carbon dash looking clean. If I can get the switches to be dual LED (one ring colour when off, a second colour when on) I’m probably going to pull the trigger. But with the body delayed in the paint shop, it’s time to put the floor pan aside for a few weeks while I get the 1958 Beetle and the German Look ready for next year’s motoring. |
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...905b44ed_c.jpg Rally bug heater channels are looking pretty good inside...but the bottoms of each were pretty rotten. Bob and I found a couple of spots, and patched them, but when the sandblaster came out...what was left was swiss-cheesey. It would seem both left and right sides were full of sand...from sandblasting the shell 13years ago. That held water/moisture, and rotted out the bottom and some of the running-board sides. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2bb64482_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...536415e1_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d9d3f3d4_c.jpg Heater channel bottoms in, door gap on the driver's side fixed, cracked hinge on the driver's side fixed...I mean, this was going to be a quick respray, right? I guess at this stage, we might as well fix everything [img]//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/tongue.png" class="smile" alt=":P[/img] Well, since we're cutting out sheet metal...I should probably feel guilty. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...39bb53f6_c.jpg ...and putting new metal in. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...73795d7b_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...685c8b2a_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0b682eeb_c.jpg Pedal set has the clutch pedal in line with where it was with the old set, but the pedals are 3" closer to the bulkhead. That should give me enough leg room to compensate for the added height off the floor they will have. Turns out the master cylinders shipped without some needed parts, so this project will have to wait a bit. ...and now we spend the next week working in my office, or cleaning/prepping the house for my family from the east to visit. No shop time for at least a week. :( |
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9b3950d9_c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7ea2f672_c.jpg Not a whole lot of progress on the car...but the pedal box setup is getting more dialed in. |
nice pedal setup!
Something similair is on my wishlist as well, but the required list is still to big. Keep posting! I daily check the GL forums for news |
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