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Dave,
Looks like you got the inside shift rod sorted, but if you need a replacement, let me know as we carry that item as part of the conversion. VR ALex |
Thanks Alex! We'll see how it does when driving...but for the moment it "feels" good.
----- Ever have one of those nights where you want to throw the whole project against the wall? Sigh. Tomorrow is a new day. -Dave |
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What a fight with the shift rod!
My plan is to fit two shift rod bushes. The stock one at the front and another (stock) at the rear end of the tunnel, set at the correct height for the gearbox selector rod. Then cut the shift rod in two places (between the bush locations) and fit two universal joints. This would give a more accurate shift without a bent rod flapping about inside the tunnel. A bit late for that suggestion but if the current set up doesn't work that might be an option. I think the front bush setup is worth a try as I agree with Ricola's analysis and so did the rally engineers. However, I'd check the mounts annually (use a pry bar to check the stretch) and expect them to need replacing periodically. The rally car had modest amounts of torque compared to a big Type4 but the drivers did a lot of engine breaking as the brakes were cooked most of time (which stretches the mounts). |
Funny you should mention that Bruce. Ideally, I think the dual-universal joint system is the way to go. When I initially measured the drop I didn't think 3.75" was 'so big', but by the time you bend the rod and put it into the tunnel you realize just how tight it really is. When I was redoing the shift rod for the 3rd time on Sunday I actually pulled a steering shaft and it's joints out of a box to see if they might be useable in this application. Unfortunately too big, so I need to go and find some smaller ones.
For the moment I believe I have a well working shift system, but it's really hard to evaluate that while sitting on a bare pan! I've decided I will go with carpet or rubber floor mats, instead of a bare tunnel, so that leaves me the option of cutting into the tunnel down the road to improve on this. For now I've tack-welded my access hole shut, and will search out another VW shift rod and bushing support for improving it at a later date (if this doesn't work well as is). I've also been thinking a lot about the front bushing setup for the trans. If this were a typical street car where you build it, and then it's "done"...I'd probably be quite concerned. In fact, I think I'd be redoing the system since failure is likely to occur way down the road at an inopportune time. But, I'm not building a street car. With my race cars I have a system where before and after each event I go over the car from bumper to bumper. It's put up on axle stands and all fluids are flushed, all mounting points checked, major component (engine, tranny, suspension, brake) nuts and bolts are checked. I average one event every 3mo, so I think that is probably a good enough window to discover a problem. With my Audi, after the first season I had a good record of how long things like rod ends and upper suspension mounts lasted. So after the first year I just rotated those parts out on a shorter window...whether they needed it or not. At $20 for two mounts, I think I can afford that here! :-) The other thing I've been thinking about is the skid plate. I know I need to protect the nosecone / shift rod on the transmission, so there might be an opportunity to build in a 'failsafe' when we do the skid plate. I tossed this plate on just to see the coverage / get an idea. The real one will involve lots of trimming, etc. But for visuals, this will work as a start: http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6041/6...fc5ecec1_z.jpg I'm thinking if I design the mounts for the skid plate well enough, I should be able to place this left over urethane piece I have in between the skid plate and the front transmission mount: http://www.mofoco.com/item_images/em...t_urethane.JPG If the mounts fail, the nose of the trans would drop and rest on the urethane and skid plate vs. hanging off the shift rod. I still need to think this through though. In order to be effective the Urethane mount needs to be within 15mm of the transmission...but that means the skid plate needs to be strong enough it won't bend up INTO the trans. So, maybe not a good idea...but a start! -Dave |
Dave, the universal joints will help and you will need a second mounting point (as you have said) We had to go with the universal linkage on a build I helped with. I'm the one holding the TIG torch ;)
Here's the link... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/vie...224&highlight= |
After seeing that link...I'm going to have to do the universal joints! But, I'm waiting. It works now, must get car driveable...then upgrade the shifting later ;-)
----- After a few days of little to no work accomplished in the garage, it was time to get cracking and get something done! Started by making some pipe... http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6097/6...f9d78251_z.jpg Then I made some holes... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/6...f49dca07_z.jpg ...made some modern art... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7161/6...96852174_z.jpg and finally started working on the car ;-) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7031/6...c99a45a6_z.jpg Having removed the torsion bars from the rear, I bought a rather simple "coil over conversion kit" which I knew I would be modifying for double-shear mounting of the rod-end. What I didn't realize is just how much modifying I'd be doing. For starters, the entire rear suspension was going going to be held on by 4 M10 bolts on each side, in single-shear fashion. I didn't think it was very strong, and the offroad Baja guys confirmed they shear the bolts off. The pipe we turned down on the lathe ended up being welded to the back of the mounting plates. These pipe sections are a tight fit into the torsion tube and should hopefully serve to transmit the load to the torsion tube instead of the mounting bolts. Once I lined up the plates to the suspension arm, it quickly became clear there were further issues. The plate sits a full 3/4" over from where the mounting surface is supposed to be. I considered cutting the welds and bending the plates, but for now have opted to make aluminum spacers to sandwich in between. The guys at the local rally shop are away for an event, so I had to cut some quick spacers in my garage. Eventually I'll go back and make some nice ones on the mill. Not pictured in the photo above are the extra plates I made for double-shear mounting of the rod end. But here is one side mocked up for testing: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6...ca7e072e_b.jpg I'm going to order some grade 8 studs to thread into the torsion bar housing, and then the final step will be to make four spacers for the outside plate on the lathe. The studs will allow me to secure the inner plate with a nut, slide larger spacers over top and secure the outer plate with a second nut. This should, in theory, be stronger then just a long bolt with spacer. And hey, can't overbuild your suspension mounts! After a mockup of both sides to ensure everything fit, I tore it all down and gave it a coat of POR15...which is still drying. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7170/6...f45b9f36_z.jpg Between the fab work and fitting that was pretty much all I accomplished today, outside of mounting the trailing arms. A good clean of the shop was in order...and then I remounted the shifter, having repainted the tunnel last night. Looking at the spindly little stock shifter, I couldn't help but miss portions of my prototype shifter. After a couple of cuts I think I've managed to keep the best of both worlds, eh? http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6118/6...95070f9c_z.jpg -Dave |
Looks familiar:D good work;)
http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/91835.jpg http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/92365.jpg http://www.keversite.nl/fotoalbum/fotos/92366.jpg Paul. |
Hey Dave,
I was also working on my rear spring plates this weekend. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...6.jpg~original The double shear mod you did looks nice and strong. With the plates you put on your trailing arms is there going to be enough room for your wheels? Also what rear coilovers are you going to run? |
For the coil overs I'm going to start with a pair of the QA1 units, since I can completely change the valving. But I've also been looking at a set of Bilstein units...just not sure about getting them to fit.
As for the trailing arm plates...truthfully, I'm not sure if they're going to clear...but I suspect they will. I am only running two widths of wheels on this car, 4.5" wide and 5.5" wide...which gives me more clearance then pretty much everyone else here! My rear brake kit arrives on Tuesday, so I'll finally be able to bolt up the wheels and confirm. Based on how my 6.5" wheels fit on the '69, I'm taking an educated guess that I'll be fine. If not, I'll cut the welds on the spring-plate replacement, bend them, and reweld the tube which mounts the rod end. Now...you might be asking yourself, 4.5" wheels??? On the German Look forum!?!? Well, I think the project has moved far enough along and is moving fast enough that I can finally let the cat out of the bag... ... ... ...my hood and engine lid were finished today. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6...15eacf35_z.jpg ...and a few weeks ago I started on the decals... http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6085/6...11e647cd_z.jpg http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6230/6...9b3461e2_z.jpg :D It will be a visual replica on the exterior shell, but interior and everything under the skin will be my own interpretation, setup for the events and driving that I will do. I've been super stoked about the idea since early summer when I decided upon it. ...for those of you that don't know what I'm doing yet...here's the documentation I was able to score off a great guy in Europe. He's been plenty helpful. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6214/6...dd94ea17_b.jpg -Dave |
Awesome! I love the video's on youtube of that car, minus the herby soundtrack.
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I like it! :)
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Grrr. One of those nights in the garage!
The rear disc brake kit arrived. All my rear wheel bearings arrived. The seal kits, etc. etc. Grease up the bearings, drive the inner wheel bearings in and go to the ziplock bag for the snap rings. Aww crap, the snap rings. Yup, those were missing when I tore this car down. Not a common part carried by the parts houses, not that it mattered when I discovered the problem at 9pm. I've got a VW part number, but ETKA doesn't list the sizes. I have found a few references that the 944 is the same size, and from there I was able to figure out the snap ring size. Crossing my fingers I can order a pair in tomorrow...going to be super chapped if a pair of missing snap rings keep me from picking up the body this weekend. -Dave |
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7163/6...dc6a0899_z.jpg
Terrible photo...but I finally found a suitable snap ring and was able to continue moving forward. The first job, though, was to clean up! Moving from job to job and getting stalled on each partway in was causing the garage to get far too cluttered. Not easy, or enjoyable, to work in this... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6...08450df6_z.jpg But once cleaned up I got the main components of the rear brakes installed on both sides, and rebuilt one of the axles. I have been avoiding the axle rebuild for as long as I possibly could...I think between trying to get the circlips off, and that grease getting everywhere...it really is my least favorite job in the garage. I swear if new axles came packed with grease I would just order them ;-) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7013/6...eceaa665_z.jpg One of the things I didn't like about my double-shear setup was the fact that I would have a single bolt holding both plates on. I've found some grade 8 studs which will allow me to secure the first plate, and then second plate once I lathe up some spacers. While it's all on the same stud, that extra nut makes a big difference. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/6...d63ab423_b.jpg The new mounting system also gave me some time to think about, and narrow the spacer a little bit on the mounts. I did have 3/4" between the trailing arm and 'spring plate', but now have that down to a 1/2". http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7166/6...bee71a11_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7170/6...f7ec8d53_z.jpg New speedo/rally computer sensor ring: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7174/6...8766409f_z.jpg ...and I thought I'd try out the Empi short shift kit, just to see if it would shorten the throws a little bit. Since my shifter setup is using the Type-1 shifter and rod, it was an easy retrofit. Definitely shortened the throws, without making the lateral movement vague. Should work out well. I also stuffed two of the stock springs into shifter. They bind a bit when pushing down for reverse or first, but now when I go into first there is enough spring pressure to snap the shifter out into neutral, and thus second is easy without grinding. Well...theoretically. Won't really know until I get to drive it! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7035/6...9e53aa4b_z.jpg On the bad news side of things, I had to cut down the carbon shaft I'm using for the shifter...I've cut this particular piece three or four times...wouldn't you know it, this time it started to delaminate. I was meaning to buy another one, which matched the weave of the shift knob...but I guess I really will have to now! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6...dc9cf69334.jpg -Dave |
Looking Great Dave... So we going to See the Body with the New paint Sitting on that Sexy pan by Sunday ;)
what are you going for the engine you Staying with the Spec of the Rally car or just going Balls out...lol Chris. |
Loving the rally themed livery. Going to look sweet. Are you planning on running a Kafer Brace in the rear to help support the shock towers/ bracing the frame horns at all?
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There is a type-4 engine in my storage unit, I picked it up last summer knowing that eventually you guys were going to pull me into a turbo setup ;) Quote:
-------- Today has been a pretty long evening/night/morning in the garage. So many hours, in fact, that I'm really having trouble remembering what it was I accomplished. There was rebuilding the second axle, installing brake pads, checking clearances, bending brake lines, discovering my clutch cable won't work, hating my bent brake lines and redoing them...anyways, the list goes on. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7151/6...e0329cf0_z.jpg Test fit one of the rally tires on the chassis. Plenty of clearance for the suspension, lets hope they clear the fenders! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7014/6...38b9f9b0_z.jpg Shortly after dinner time...which reminds me, I forgot to eat dinner. Anyways...I was about to head to Vancouver to borrow a trailer when I called in my buddy Scott to take a look at three of my problem areas. I showed him a couple of issues with the clutch cable, and we discussed the double-plating of the suspension mounts. By the time I got back from the trailer mission, about 2 hours later, Scott had the following ready for me: Clutch cable adapter and adjuster, in Stainless Steel. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/6...21d9b9b1_z.jpg Spacers for my suspension mounts... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7155/6...6058b27e_z.jpg And finally, a Bowden Tube extension. Now I can use the factory 911 bowden tube mount, and the factory beetle Bowden Tube. Not 100% this is going to work for me, as the bowden tube does have a fairly significant "s" bend...but if I'm lucky this will keep me from making a custom bracket (which would likely route the tube in a similar S) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7172/6...f7b9fd11_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7168/6...df04278d_z.jpg So the suspension now has grade 8 studs, set into the chassis with red loctite and an M10 nut. From there I placed the spacer, my second plate and then a second nut, this time with blue loctite. the setup with a stud should be much stronger then just a single bolt with a spacer. If I start tearing these off, I've got much bigger problems! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6...9abbf4d2_z.jpg Pan is dropped on the ground, still needs rear shocks so it's resting on the bump stops. From there I went looking for front suspension parts...I really hope I can find the steering box, because so far I've had no luck at all. I seem to recall the best time to put it in is while the body is off the pan. Found two bad ones, but not the good one. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7156/6...40bb5537_z.jpg Well, off for a few hours of shut-eye, then tomorrow it's off to see the paint job! -Dave |
Hi
Looking good. The steering box can still be fitted with the body on easily, you just need the fuel tank out to connect the coupling to the steering column shaft. Steve |
Thanks Steve.
One of my buddies offered up a good box this morning, so I'll be good either way! -Dave |
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7157/6...0a4f7e4b_z.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6...a569de7b_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7156/6...6ed0c327_z.jpg Long story short, trans hits the body so some massaging is necessary. Decided it was easier to bring it all home vs. Working on it in someone else's shop while they have other work going on. I'm so stoked on the paint....but so exhausted from the last few days. Car can stay on the trailer tonight! -Dave |
That looks brilliant!:yes:
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The body looks great. Keep up the good work. :D
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Like the color... the black hood looks great with it! :clap:
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For the last few days, as friends have been asking how it's going, I reply with "I'm at that stage where nothing fits"...so the body not fitting on the pan was pretty much exactly what should have happened. Turns out I need more clearance for the transmission (somewhat expected) and more clearance on my suspension double-shear plates. Also not sure if I got enough blue into the paint choice. There should be a hint of blue in Polar Silver, but I didn't want too much. Might not have done enough, but it's too late now! Blue tints are incredibly difficult to photograph as well, so in some shots (like the first) it looks perfect...in others, and real life, it's far more white-silver. Not complaining, just keeping record.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7025/6...69c8bd1b_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7160/6...a9f43067_b.jpg The satin hood was apparently quite tough to get "right". They bought some product that was supposed to make the paint satin, but when mixed to spec it was definitely gloss black. It's a custom mix now, so don't scratch it :P http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7014/6...e2e9c032_b.jpg Hard to believe that's the same beat up apron which was on the car when I bought it. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7035/6...7cb84416_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/6...77cd9645_b.jpg I'm planning a full headliner, so no need to clean/paint the roof area. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7020/6...0f1b89f1_b.jpg ...probably should have fixed that radio slot, but was planning on a Carbon Joe Dash...oops! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/6...835f1091_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6...24d34c03_z.jpg Problem area. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7001/6...3bc9bd7a_z.jpg ...should fix the problem :P http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7151/6...a95a34cd_b.jpg QA1 DS402 rear coil over shocks. Wish I had the funds for the double-adjustable (rebound and compression separately), but at some point you just need to admit that you're bleeding way more money then you can realistically afford to. And, while there are a bunch of threads on the GL forums about fitting these...let it be known that it's far more of a B**ch then anyone has made it out to be! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6...41912219_z.jpg A lot of clearencing of the lower shock mount was needed... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7030/6...73f0b198_z.jpg Not sure why I'm going to need spacers here, and others haven't. I wonder if there is a difference between the Type-1 arms that I'm using and the 944 arms that other people seem to be using. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7025/6...67a33f66_z.jpg ...and I had to offset the lower bolt by quite a bit as well. I'm definitely not happy with the bolt or the amount of material I removed. BUT, it will hold to move the car around and get the pan bolted up to the body. Down the road when I can get it onto a lift I will weld in some support and a better mounting solution. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6...f1ab1c3f_b.jpg I'm almost ready to start fitting the body! Just gotta go return this trailer, and prep the lower pan gasket. -Dave |
Wow, very quick progress. Looking very nice!
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Coming on nicely!
As for your coilovers, it looks like you have used 2.25" springs rather than the 1.9" which is why you are having problems... |
Ahh, interesting.
These are the DS-402, which replace the 4855__ that everyone else on here has used so far. The actual shock body is 2" O.D., so there is no way a 1.9" spring is going to work! I could squeeze a 2.25" spring if I lathe down the various components...but at this point I think I'm better of welding away on my trailing arms so that I can use the shocks as is. ...but thank you. Knowing makes me feel a whole lot better. I was beginning to think I had lost it completely! -Dave |
It is starting to look like a car again. Nice work.
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Yup! I actually enjoyed a coffee in the garage the other day, just walking around and looking at the body/paint job.
Didn't get much done on the car yesterday, was working later then normal and then off doing some coaching work. Instead of some garage time I put in an hour on the decals I'll need for the car. Doesn't look like much for an hours worth of work, but by the time you sort out the files, and do the layers it takes a while! Finally figured out the roof decal, it's the old Raiffeisen Bank logo. Ran out of vinyl before I could do the stripe or the windshield decal. I'm considering paying a shop to do the stripes, just because they're so hard to lay straight on a curved body surface. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7154/6...82a4cb32_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7174/6...a7051de4_z.jpg -Dave |
...well, after two late evenings at work, I got back to the bug tonight. There is some positive news...the car is no longer resting on top of the sawhorses with the pan below...but instead resting on axle stands, mostly bolted to the pan:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7146/6...451913a2_b.jpg The problem, and one I wouldn't suggest any of you repeat, is this particular body and pan combination are meeting for the first time. First time? Yes, really. And yes, that's after paint! :-) Due to the way the project progressed I haven't actually had an opportunity to have this particular pan and body together in the same room. To make a long story short, they have both been bolted to a different body or pan...and THOSE two were bolted together at one point. So if A and B fit, and B and C fit...then A should fit C? Nope! Front bolts up no problem, four frame head bolts and the four bolts in the front of the heater channels. Under the rear seat 3 of four bolts are no problem. Passenger side heater channel, no problem. Driver's side heater channel...no dice. Now, I know normally one might need to pull out the die grinder and adjust things an 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch, but in this case my d-side heater channel is almost 1/2" too wide at the rear corner. Hmmmm. As the night progressed I was able to massage 4 of the 9 heater channel bolts in, with #5 just about ready to go. The die grinder on a bare pan/body isn't exactly quiet so I figured I should stop before the neighbours complain. The last three bolts (moving rearward) are going to be the tough ones. Might be pulling the body off to put some new inserts in. -Dave |
Still everything else was going so well something had to hold you up right?!
Going to be all worth the hassle :) |
Whew! Bolted up! Don't ask how...it involved a few non-vw tools...but I've got it.
...cleaned up the shop, and tomorrow I'll start on a new project. Either mounting up the front suspension, or cutting into that fresh paint for a gas heater :P -Dave |
Dave,
Are you bound by any Historic rules? As you could improve the bug over what they achieved in Salzburg? Clive |
Hi Clive,
My car is definitely not a true replica, and more of a 'tribute'. I intend to have the exterior as close to a replica as possible, and everything under the skin will be improved or modified to my personal tastes. Factory drivers, for instance, complained that the rear drum brakes weren't strong enough. I had always planned from day one to run 4-wheel discs. I'm building the car for TSD, Drivex, Rally-cross and Ice-cross racing. Here in Canada the stage-rally scene consists only of our National Championship and three regional rallies. Historic, for the most part, is non-existent and certainly not it's "own class". At times some of the drivers have created their own historic championship, but it's not a long-term viable effort right now. I was more intrigued by the fact that I could build a unique bug, based on a real 'factory' program that is essentially unheard of here in North America. There are very few people I've talked to who were even aware of the Salzburg cars...and most of them are Europeans who moved here! Were I living in the UK, I'd be building it to proper historic specs since there's actually opportunity to race it as such. -Dave |
Getting pan and body together is sometimes a PITA. Start as many bolts as you can and shake/push the body around, start another and shake, then another and shake/push, etc. Then tighten the bolts.
Nice to see it together. |
hahaha...I think this might be the longest I've gone without an update. Three whole days :P
Friday and Saturday were basically spent prepping items for installation. Painting parts, finding baggies of nuts and bolts...basically boring tasks in the garage which must be completed. But boring tasks lead to quite productive Sundays...so here we go: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/6...fc015b94_z.jpg Front suspension, steering box, tie-rods and related kit are all in the car. Also finished up the brake lines, brake master and various grommets. If I had the front calipers (which I sold with the '69) the brakes would probably be bled and ready to go. I must say mounting up all the suspension pieces from new is a fun "which goes first" puzzle, the sway-bar to control-arm nuts being the toughest of the bunch. It was all relatively smooth, just had to come up with a good method for compressing brand new urethane bushings! One thing I'm not too stoked on is the upper strut mounts I've got. The left-side bushing is sitting all the way forward while the right-side sits center-outside. The old factory VW mounts sat perfectly centered, so it's a case of aftermarket replacement units just not being made as well. These ones do have a sealed bearing though...so you win some while you lose some. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7023/6...c3ef0391_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6...597b9853_z.jpg I have marked out the car for the gas heater. I've got to cut holes for the intake, exhaust and cabin ducting. The VW Eberspacher installation book includes the templates required, which I've printed out and confirmed to be dimensionally identical to what the book says they should be. As you can see, however, the template doesn't exactly "line up" with holes. Its supposed to be used on a "built car" (dealer install), but that shouldn't change anything that I can think of. There is a *bit* of wiggle room in the brackets, but not much. Haven't cut any holes yet...not until I know I can get it right. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6...55a00679_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7166/6...cc3e7272_z.jpg I also managed to get the pedal cluster installed, as well as the heating controls for the standard heater boxes. I've got the shortest VW clutch cable in the car now, and based on the length I think this one might work for me. Will need to setup the clutch fork and adapter tomorrow to see. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7174/6...ba55f41d_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6...c450887d_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7165/6...69b3f52a_z.jpg ...and finally, proving that I'm probably going a bit insane...I went around the car and painted all the bolt heads which weren't acid-dipped and painted before assembly. Can't have rusty items showing through on a perfectly new paint job! http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6...343a3b06_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7012/6...c6eaf408_z.jpg Pretty rad that if I needed to I could bolt on the wheels and roll the car around! Next up is the gas heater cut-outs, steering column, and then the headliner. I'm going to give a one-piece headliner install a shot myself. I figure the Porsche trans internals scared me before I opened it...and it wasn't bad. How terrible could a headliner job really be!?! Worst case, I do a horrible job and waste the cost of a one-piece headliner. Best case I end up with something passable for now :P But at this point I don't have the budget to pay someone to do it. So rather then hold things up for the sake of headliner, I figure it's worth the chance. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/6...18a9f59f_z.jpg -Dave |
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In a 'normal' Macpherson strut competition car the anti-dive is dialled in by dropping the pivot points for the anti-roll bar (vulnerably) lower but using a compression strut the rear pivot is raised keeping everything out of harms way. As you know anti-dive is worthwhile in loose stage cars as it stops the nose diving into the dirt and upsetting the suspension angles particularly the camber, which is the weakness of the strut suspension. The camber goes very negative under dive and you lose grip. Just a thought. Clive |
Clive,
To be honest I didn't really think that I'd have any options. Do you have more details about using compression struts? Haven't heard of that one before, so definitely curious. ---------- Doesn't look like I got much done tonight...but cutting holes for the gas heater isn't something you rush! The exhaust and heater outlet holes are cut, but I didn't realize I don't have the correct sized hole saw for doing the heater intake hole. Will have to work that out later this week. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7024/6...7e9821af_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7165/6...2cc8c8a3_z.jpg Originally I planned on installing the steering column as well, but one look at it's less-then-perfect finish, and I knew I couldn't do it. So stripped it down and it's currently drying. Will be a few days until I can get back to the car unfortunately. -Dave |
Dave,
Have a look at the 2nd photo down: http://www.jemsracing.co.uk/cs_widetrack.html The photo is of an Escort racer taken from the underside but shows the normal TCA at 90* to the frame but there is a strut going from the outer end of the TCA at an angle back to the frame - this is the compression strut. Its adjustable for length that allows the caster to be altered. On the Escort the inner pivot is fixed but I reckon that if the bracket is mounted vertically you could drill several holes to give the option of raising the pivot point that would result in anti-dive. The other thing to note is that the anti-roll bar is detached from the TCA and is operated by a link from the MacPherson strut itself meaning that there is plenty of potential for mounting the connection to the anti-roll bar anywhere along the trailing arm of the AR bar to increase the roll resistance. Doing all this means that the TCA itself can be made adjustable to change camber with the compression strut taking care of the caster, the whole unit being a fabricated wishbone. Clive |
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