1973 V8 Super Beetle Front Engine Conversion - 283 SBC
 

I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post this, but here it goes.

Hi from Houston Texas! Here's my V8 front engine conversion I've been working on since October of last year (07). It's a 73 Super on a 94 S10 chassis that has been shortened. The engine I'm putting in is a 283 bored over .030, it has 12.5:1 pop up pistons, forged pistons / rods / crank, mild cam, gm votec heads which will bring the compression down to about 11:1 cr, summit stage I vortec intake, 600 cfm edelbrock carb, and it'll all be back by a th350 w/ a 2500 stall converter.

Here's some pictures of my build.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/Bug_3.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/Bug_8.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/P1000800.jpg


88 Vette wheels (16" x 8.5") to go on the bug! I'll clean these up and refinish them.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/P1000806.jpg


Some body work.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/P1010007.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/bb2.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/bb8.jpg


Sold the chassis.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/photo2.jpg


Cutting out the trunk area for the V8

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/photo3.jpg


My first vision of the finished bug, photoshoped.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/What...-look-like.jpg

The donor S10 chassis.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/chassis_4.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/chassis_6.jpg


Cutting the frame up. Removed some from the front, rear, and about 24" inches from between the wheels. You can see the vette wheels on. I used 2" aluminum spacers.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/s10-frame-v8-bug-3.jpg


Ready to be welded.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/s10-...d-joints-3.jpg


Frame welded together.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/IMG_0253.JPG


Body sitting on frame for the first time.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/IMG_0264.JPG


Body cut so it'll drop down on the frame. The bottom of the body is flush with the bottom of the S10 frame.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/IMG_0268.JPG

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/IMG_0267.JPG

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/IMG_0278.JPG


Body mounts weld.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/body_mounts.jpg


New home for the gas tank.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/tank_2.jpg


Here's how the body will sit after setting the body on it's mounts.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/body_4.jpg


Widening the rear fenders.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/bug_wide_fenders_1.jpg

Fenders widened, but much work left to do.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/bug_wide_fenders_5.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/bug_wide_fenders_6.jpg


Shackle mounts weld in.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/comp...-shackle-2.jpg


New parts for the 283. Vortec intake and heads.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/vortec_intake.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/vortec_head_2.jpg

Finishing up body work so I can paint the chassis and body at the same time.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/body-work-1.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/body-work-3.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/body-work-4.jpg


Change the direction I want to go as far as color. I'm wanting to go with a blue like this to stay true to the original blue and grey color schemes.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/Electron-Blue-Pearl.jpg

You've put in a lot of work and it looks good, that will be a fun car to drive on a drag strip. The power-to-weight ratio will be insanely fast and it's gonna scoot.

However, and not to denigrate your work but the S10 chassis isn't going to perform too good in the corners. That chassis, with it's rear leaf springs and short angled front A-arms was designed to haul a heavy payload. The car/truck will be very very fast in the straights but will take corners like a Sherman tank.

There may be performance kits out there to improve the handling of that chassis, I believe that truck was on Chevrolet's racing circuit at one time.

In my opinion, and that's all it is just an opinion, you would have been much happier with the overall performance and handling if you'd have put that V8 into a Porsche 944.

supe just said exactly what i was thinking

impressive work on it so far tho

I'll bet you it will be seriously reliable though, so that's good!!! Kinda sorry to see what looked to be a pretty straight body cut up, but I could be worse, coulda been an Oval!

Jason

Thanks for the compliments guys.

I agree 100% about the handling, no doubt. The S10 will handle poorly in turns and will be fast going straight. That suits me though, or where I live cause we don't have turns and canyons. We have flat plains and long stretches of freeway / hwys / streets. Everyone pretty much races straight 1/4 mile runs whether on street or track. The only kinda turns we see are those at the circle dirt track. :lmao:

The body was in OK shape. There's rust issues in the quarter panels in the vent area. and the body has had some wreck repair fixed with body filler (previous / original owner). The car had been sitting up since 01 and was on it's way to becoming scrap. There's been a few times when I wish I would've keep it original, upgraded brakes, the engine and put some nice wheels on it, but when I look at what's taking place it put a smile on my face. :) (I'm poet and didn't know it).

It will be reliable cause it'll be mostly stock, and all GM parts. Minus the body of coarse.

For my next bug project I'll go with a 1303 (73) and do upgrades instead of a conversion. This site will be a big inspiration and is!

Hi

That is going to be fun to drive, if handling is not a big deal for you that's your call, but there is lots of things that can be done later on, Jag IRS rear end and A arm front suspension.

It would be good if you can keep it a bit stealth as well apart from pumped fenders, but as in no huge air scoops etc.

It surprising how much room there is in the front.

Steve

Eventually I'll do some of those upgrades down the road. I think corvettes have a nice IRS too. There's all kinds of ways to go really.

I do plan on keeping it stealthy. I don't even want cutouts in the hood. So either the louvers on the front clip have to be enough, or I'm putting the radiator in the back. Either way I'll have some sort of scoop / air dam to draw air through the radiator.

I can't wait to get the engine in to see just how much room there is to play with.

These past couple of weeks I've been doing nothing but body work. I'm trying to finish the body work so it'll be ready for paint and I can move onto painting the chassis soon afterwards.

Now I know the correct way to fix rust on a car is to cut away the rusted metal and to weld in new metal but....

a) I would have to hack up another classic vw to get the metal I need cause the whole rear quarters of the body need to be replaced.

b) They make replacement panels but they are expensive. Once the rust becomes obvious under the paint I'll just fix the whole thing. This will hold me over for 3-5 years until I can afford to do that kind of panel replacement.

c) I don't want to take the risk of setting my car and garage on fire because of the factory foam installed right where the rust in an issue.

d) My goal is to get this on the road before the end of the year so I don't want to get hung up on replacing panels just yet.

Now that I've got that out of the way here are some pics of some body work.


Got the first coat of primer on the body.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8_bug_body_work_1.jpg


I've smoothed out the imperfections in the center of the door. There were a couple more spots on the edges.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8_bug_body_work_2.jpg


If you recall from previous pictures there were some rust holes on the bottom section of the body behind the crescent moon vent. That's been taken car of. I've finished the drivers side rust holes but here's a pic of some layering of body filler smoothing out the holes.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8_bug_body_work_3.jpg


Same for the passenger's side.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8_bug_body_work_4.jpg


Here's a pic of the end results. Holes are gone. There's some small pin holes that need to be taken care of but for the most part it's repaired until rust comes back 5 years down the road. :D

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8_bug_body_work_5.jpg


I'm just about done smoothing out all the little dings and rust repairs. Next I'm going to finish up the fenders and then I'll gradually sand and layer primer working my way from about 120 on down to 600+ grit. The last couple layers I'll work in some wet sanding. Then she should be ready for primer, base coat, and clear.

How much do you guys think I could expect to pay for primer, base and clear all from the same manufacturer? Honda Vivd Blue Pearl, paint code B-520P. I'm not looking for the highest grade paint, but something that'll last 5 years. My Uncle is going to spray my car so I'm looking into the cost of just of the paint. Enough to cover the outside, inside doors / jams, and possibly under both lids.

Got the chance to do some more body work. Started finishing off the front end and most of one fender. I shaved the turn signals by tacking in some metal under the holes and then smoothed them out with body filler. There's still some little burs here and there but it's getting there.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work-1.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work-2.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work-3.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work-4.jpg

What do you guys think about this color scheme?

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/silv...-red-lip-t.jpg

Silver, shaved bumper, lights and trunk handles. Paint my rims black and add a red lip like so.

http://img.alibaba.com/photo/1124404..._For_Honda.jpg


I thinking about going this direction cause my motor will be about 85% all black with red accents here and there. Yesterday I ordered almost everything to finish up my motor minus push rods cause I have to check their length.

Here's the breather and timing cover I ordered. I basically ordered all the individual pieces minus the valve covers cause I need center bolt.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...-141-758_w.jpg

I'm going to buy some stock vortec valve covers. I might even run a red stripes down those raised lines?
http://images.racepartsdirect.com/sbcvc.jpg

Got a set of red ACCEL spark plug wires.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...cc-4041r_w.jpg

Ordered a black HEI distributor.....etc.


I've got mainly black with accents of red so I'm trying to carry that outside and inside the car. I'm thinking about getting these seats.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...-1605-52_w.jpg

Some red belts, 5 point.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...2-19-234_w.jpg

And I plan to do the interior / carpet in a dark grey. For the dash I'll paint that wood grain stripe red.
http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/red-stripe.jpg

These exhaust tips.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...22203hkr_w.jpg

And last but not least I'll plan to get on of those 4 in 1 tachs to replace the speedo in my dash.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...sum-800104.jpg

Who needs a speedo any who? I'm just concerned about people seeing my tail lights after a race. :)

I REALLY like the wheel idea, I'm probably going to go something similar myself.

I like the idea of having all the guages in one spot too.

Jason

Nice Work
 

Hi, one of my problems is, I don't know of any state or local city that allow no bumpers. Any time they want to give you a ticket they can. I'd like very much to go no bumpers. I live in California, the Pomona area, and they do ticket:mad:

Seems more convenient to have it all in one spot. I think the wheels black with the rid lip look sweet.

Good point! I'll have to check the Texas law, but I know of plenty people here that have gone bumper less without problems from the law.

I searched the Texas DMV and found nothing as well as google. I think I'm good on that one! Shaved bumpers it is! :D

Im digging the red lipped black rim setup!! also your project as a whole!!! keep up the good work!!

Thanks! I think it makes the car look sportier.

Got my parts today...

Rocker arms, head gaskets, head bolts, intake bolts, intake gaskets, valve covers gaskets, timing cover, timing gasket, aluminum water pump pulley, water neck / gaskets, thermostat, distributor, base clamp and gasket for dist, ACCEL wires (red), valve cover breather, air breather, oil pan, dip stick, bolts for pan and timing cover, headman shorty headers, B&M 2,500 stall, TCI tranny rebuild kit and push rod length checker. I think that's all...might have left some out but basically everything I need to put the motor together minus push rods. I'll get those once I check their length (exh / int).

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/parts-for-v8-bug-2.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/parts-for-v8-bug.jpg


Within the next month or two I should have the motor together and in the car. :) That is, after I paint and rebuild the chassis.

It was a hundred today and man was it hot! Still managed to get some work done. Ordered some push rods and some Dupli-color paint. 500º flat black for the valve covers and oil pan. 500º Glossy black for the block. 1200º color aluminum ceramic paint for the headers.

Painted the used valve covers I bought.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/vortec-valve-covers.jpg


Painted the bare oil pan I ordered.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/oil-pan.jpg


Friday at work I spent an hour on each header sand blasting the paint off. Today I painted them. Did 3 coats with one can and there's still about 1/4 a can. I put down some paint too. :) Now I got to figure what oven I'm going to use to bake the paint. ??? Does the paint release harmful vapors? Maybe I'll do it here at home.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/headman-header.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/headman-header-2.jpg


OK, so I've been talking about this freebie 283 from my old man for almost a year now without pics. Well, here's some finally. Today me and my bro went and picked the motor and stand up, got her in the garage and cleaned the engine up as much as we can. Still got some more cleaning to do before I paint it and start putting it together. The internals look good and clean. There's a little carbon build up but not a whole lot. I did find out there's no lifters in the block so I've got to get some

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/283-popup-3.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/283-popup-5.jpg


Here's some pics of the pop up pistons. . Also I found the number on the bottom of the pistons. 334-99. I searched the net and found someone who has the same pistons and his are for a 283 bored over .060. Would that be the same for mine? If so I've got me a 292 on my hands! :)

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/283-popup.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/283-popup-2.jpg


Well, that's all I've got for now. More to come. Anyone with suggestions about cleaning this thing up without taking it apart is much appreciated. And advice on sealing it up good (using silicon or sealer, what brands, etc) will be much appreciated being this my first time doing this.

I got the block 98% broke down this weekend. After I hone the cylinders and clean the deck it'll be off to the machine shop to get hot tanked, new freeze plugs and cam bearings installed. I plan to install the main and rod bearings my self so I'll have the crank check out too.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/292-v8-bug-block.jpg

I also found out that the current cam that was in the block is a Comp Cams 270H which is too much of lift for my stock vortec heads. Either a new cam or valve springs are in order.

I know that you might not be getting many replies on this thread of yours, but please dont be discouraged to continue posting. I for one am loving it. You see, just about anything mechanic interests me!

Yep, what Axe said. Fun to follow along and watch your progress. Don't think we aren't watchin':cool: ...

I'm checkin' it out regularily!

Jason

Cool! I knew you guys were lurking. I've been keeping you guys up to date so far. It's been about 100º out lately which has been making it hard for me to get out and continue body work. At the moment I've just been concentrating on getting the motor together since it doesn't involve as much physical work.

Only real update not posted is I've decide to trade the 283 for a 350 V8. The reason I made this decision is cause it's cheaper to build a 350, pistons for a 283 bored over .060 are rare these days which make pistons and rings expensive and hard to get a hold of (1 month back order), and the 350 will make for more power and torque.

I found a thread for a vortec 400 hp 350 std bore build, dyno proven, which I intend to duplicate cause I already have a majority of the parts. Basically it's a stock 350 block / bottom end (pistons, crank, connecting rods), vortec heads, an isky .450/.450 lift w/ a 278/278 duration cam, edelbrock perform rpm intake, 750 cfm carb, and 1 5/8' headers to 3" dual exhaust.

I'll post pics when I make the swap.

this is also one of the threads i check on regularly

Made the swap this weekend. Traded the 283 for a 350 bored over 30. The engine is a pretty recent rebuild but has collected a little dirt from sitting. I'm debating whether or not to just tear it down, hot tank it and rebuild it or to just clean it up as it and go.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-355.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-355-2.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-355-3.jpg

Non Echo en Mexico.
http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-355-4.jpg

looking good

Thanks! I really haven't done too much to it lately cause it's been really hot, but I'm going to make some time this week and weekend to continue the body work I've started. Here's how she is as of now.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/vw-sign.jpg


Once I get the body work out of the way I'll tackle the engine, trans and chassis rebuild. :)

Update...

I actually got to put in some hours. Still working away at the body trying to smooth here out. I pretty much got the hood, front clip and passenger fender finished. There's a couple small low spots and high spots but for the most part they're 95% done. Well, as far a body work goes.

I hope you guys don't mind pictures... ;D


I tack welded a 22 gauge metal strip under the turn signal holes and began filing and shaping.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-b...y-work--15.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-b...y-work--14.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-b...y-work--13.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-b...y-work--12.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-b...y-work--11.jpg


I got a little help today from my buddy Jesse.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-b...y-work--10.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work--9.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work--8.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work--7.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work--6.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work--5.jpg


The blue paint spots you see is some sort of drafters / engineer marking paint that has worked well for marking spots that need fixing. It's really used to make measurement markings and notes. :)

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work--4.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work--3.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work--2.jpg

I ran out of primer before I could finish the hood. ;D

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-bug-body-work--1.jpg


Just a little more to do to the front end and then I can move on to the rear fenders. I'm thinking of shaving the front handle along with the trim holes on the hood. I might shave all the trim holes but I'm debating whether to shave everything or to go with the slightly more modern look by painting the trim flat black. ??? That and I'm undecided about keeping either bumpers or t-bars or to just shave the bumper holes.

Some updates on the bug.http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/more-body-work-1.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/more-body-work-2.jpg

All the body shaping of the front is pretty much done. Next I'll shave the bumper holes and front hood handle, but the hard part is pretty much done with for the front. Now I'll move onto the rear fenders.

I mocked up the steering. I've got a manual GM steering box and linkage. The steering wheel will be in it's stock location. I've just got to figure out what to use to mate the VW spline to the GM box / linkage.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/steering-mockup-1.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/steering-mockup-2.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/steering-mockup-3.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/steering-mockup-4.jpg

more more

A little more...:)

This weekend a few buddies came over to help out on the the car, well, it was supposed to be one but four showed and more talking than work was done, but they got to check out the car for the first time. What basically got done was we positioned the body in it's finally spot and we lowered the passenger side 3/4" to level the body out. Friday I went and bought 5 sticks of angle iron to get it all done.

Last night I cut and tack welded in the floor support using angle iron. For just being tack welded at the moment the concept seems very sturdy.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/v8-b...or-support.jpg

Next I'm going to weld in the body mount rails that bolt up to the heater channels.

Why not just use square tubing? It would be more than twice as strong and if you used a thinner wall not much heavier at all.

Jason

Good point! I decided to use angle iron cause it's simple to work with and you only have to weld two sides instead of four. I got the iron from Lowes and there was plenty of it compared to square tubing.

Matt