Bolted 4-rivet cam gear
 

Hi,

Has anyone done this?

I have a 4-rivet cam gear and tuning-cam that were seperated when I got them. The gear is drilled with 8mm and the cam with 6.8 and threaded to M8.

But: the milling in the camgear to reduce the bolt sticking out is 15mm diameter. Any larger and one get`s very close to the teeth. A M8 bolt has a 13mm head size, and a socket outside gets to large.

Any ideas?

The picture is not my cam, but shows the difference beteween the old and new cam-gear style.

http://craigsteffen.net/beetle/cam/cam01.jpg

Hi

All aftermarket performance cams are 3 bolt/rivet. The 4 bolt cams actually use a deeper oil pump, that why VW changed around 71 or 72, so you will need another gear and maybe an oil pump.

Steve

The problem is that the cam is 4-rivet. The Germans still make performance 4-rivet cams, but they come assembeled. Mine cam in parts and driller/threaded.

But: Land Rover actually uses a M8 bolt with a flange and 10mm hex instead of 13mm. Just need to grind down the flange a bit since it`s 17/19mm instead of my 15mm diameter. Should work, just need to get the bolts and try.

What about using socket headed bolts (allen key)? If the standard M8 head height @8mm is to high then a button headed set screw is much sallower @3.2mm (1/8"). Head diameters are 13mm dia and 14mm respectively.

The standard 8mm bolt has a head of 5,5mm if I remember correctly, while the allen head is about 8-9mm. Of course one could grind down a bit, but I think the solution with the land-rover bolts will be the best, leaving a large contact area and a small socket.
Curious about the height of them, but I can mill a bit deeper into the cam gear I think.

In retrospect- get them riveted! This is how Schleicher does it as I found out later, a manufacturer of performance 4-bolt cams.