full flow case
 

So I have my type 4 all apart and am going to smooth out the inside of the case and remove all the burrs and sharp edges and index my oil pump (30mm type 1) and am wondering what else I should do to the case at this stage before I start to put it all back together.... I will put an external oil cooler in and am wondering what is the best way to get the oil from the case to the cooler and back again, anything else anyone can think of would be great as well. I NEVER want to take this engine apart again.

Is it an upright conversion engine?

This is going back into my bus and will remain with the stock type 4 cooling that it came with. my goal with this engine is not necessarily create a hi-po engine but one with ultra reliability that will last atleast 200,000 miles or so. It will retain stock stroke and bore, but will have a different cam and slightly polished heads. I NEVER want to take it apart again. and so I want to upgrade the oil and the ignition compnents so it never overheats and starts on the first crank no matter what. any suggestions would be great .
thanks
scott

hmmn,
I have alot of tricks for that...I do it with every "Camper special" engine that we build......

....
 

We use different ways to get the oil on original engines out, more complicated and less. An easy way is an adapter like this:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalogimages/1731.jpg

You can route the oil out pretty easy through your oil filter adapter, go then to a remote adapter, like this:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalogimages/1732.jpg

You still have the same filtering. Then you can go through a thermostatic control....

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalogimages/1724.jpg

...to your, e.g. oil cooler with fan mount, mounted beneath the Bus, in front of the torsion housings. Or you'll use a front oil cooler that is only cooled through the pressed-through air. Don't forget to blueprint your oil pump to case bores, as the dimensions and positions are slightly different. A good tip is, to underlay the pressure spring/s, to get more oil pressure. When the thermostat opens completely, the oil pressure will fall down a bit, as the routing to the front or to the fan-cooler is pretty long. A self-made adjustable mount for the rear oil piston is helpful. We use a second spring. Don't forget to attach a thermo-switch to get the fan running at a special temperature. I use 87°C-92°C switches from w/c engines! Hope, this helps!