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Kerscher tandem master cylinder bore size
Does any one know the bore size of the Kerscher m/c? Is it actually the Porsche 944 m/c?
Thanks Tim |
Probably not much help but you never know
I have one at home new and in the box.
There are some numbers stamped on it but I can't remember what they are! If you can tell me where to look, what to measure etc I can try and find out. |
Hi Richiep,
Bore size is usually cast or stamped onto the side of the m/c in millimeters. Do you find any 2-digit number(s) on the Kerscher m/c? (there may be 2 numbers because of different sizes for front and rear). Thanks Tim |
There are two sets of numbers cast onto the cylinder - I'll have a look tonight what they are.
Anybody else fitted one of these? All the instructions are in German and the "Fitting kit" that comes with it has a confusing array of parts in it - there's even a set of pad pins in there!!! |
I saw the picture of the m/c in Kerscher website and found that the outlets are on the left hand side of the m/c. So, if you install it in a RHD Beetle, the outlets will be facing the right side of the central tunnel and the space between seems very tight. Does it cause any problem with the brake pipes to m/c connection? Richiep, I assume your Beetle is a RHD as you are in England.
Tim |
There's one outlet on the bottom and two on the side.
The kit comes with a converter peice that alters one of the side outlets to a twin vertical one. Don't know about the other side outlet yet until I offer it up to the bug. They sell a right hand drive kit, this is the one I asked for (cost more money as well) but it looks the same as the lefthand drive one to me! |
Tim,
I wanted to know the bore diameters of the kerscher m/c as well, so I asked Kerscher by mail. (Fortunately I speak a little german). They are 23,64 mm front and rear. They actually also sell another option that has 19,00 mm front and 23,64 mm rear. IMO the m/c are a product development of their own. I also heard from MTM in germany that an Audi (model 100 or 200?) m/c could be used when you use porsche 944 turbo brakes on a beetle. Don't know the diameters of those. Costs new about €250,--, so the Kerscher part is cheap in comparison... Hope to have been of some help. Good luck, Walter |
Thanks Wally,
I am planning to use Wilwood calipers - 4 pot 44.5mm in the front and 4 pot 35mm at the rear. Do you think the Kerscher m/c with 23.64mm will match? I will use proportioning valve to bias the front and rear. My original plan was to use racing pedals system such as Tilton but it is far too expensive. If the Kerscher m/c can do the job, I can save a lot for other parts. Tim |
Tim,
IMO that should work so well, be carefull not to get stuck on the inside of your own windscreen :-) The bias regulator will work out any possible balance problems, seems you've got it figured all out, so go for it! Walter |
Tim, sorry its took so long for me to have a look - the numbers stamped on my Kerscher Mater Cylinder are 16 and 20.
16 is stamped on the (rear) chamber nearest the pedal. The Front chamber (farthest from pedal) is stamped 20. Hope this helps. Rich |
No problem Richie, I still haven't decided which m/c I am going to use yet. It seems that Kerscher is offering a variety of bore sizes for their m/c. Did you tell them about your application when you placed the order so that they sent you the right size?
Thanks Tim |
Its been a while....
Again, sorry its taken me so long to reply.
The master cylinder was purchased along with the Kerscher rear disk kit. At the time - 3 years ago now - I believe it was the only advised upgrade if fitting the rear disk kit. Now I understand that Kerscher offer several sizes. Hope this helps. PS I am looking to run a similar front end to yourself, dropped spindles and kerscher vented disks. Do you have any clearance problems with your wheels, and what offset are they. Cheers Rich. |
I have a street use standard beetle with CB dropped spindles and Kerscher front disc brakes. I am using 6 x 15 Fuch wheels (I guess et 35mm) and 185/65 Dunlop in the front. Unfortunately, the front tyres are just scratching the wheel arches when under hard cornering or/and heavy braking. I am using red Konis and stock front sway bar. I think the problem can be solved if I change to lower profile tyres and stiffer sway bar. I haven't tried this out yet. If you can manage to solve the problem, please let me know.
Also the inner tyres will rub against the torsion arms when the steering is in full lock. However, this can be easily solved by adjusting the steering stop bolts but you will end up with a slightly bigger turning circle. Tim |
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