Alex,
A guy who lives near me was off work for 5 years with a smashed wrist/thumb after pulling his first Beetle springplate. The accleration off the stop would be tremendous- without the weight of the car to work against.
I suggest you mark the end of your T1 torsion bars with a line parallel to the springplate. Since the springplates are the same length, the load on the spring will remain constant and the car may/should settle somewhere near current (without consideration of different wheels/tyres).
This is where a datum flat floor and an angle finder/clinometer come in handy if you have access.
When both sides are disassembled, you can parallel the lower edges of each springplate, in the relaxed state only, by eye with good results if you are careful.
Perhaps you could assemble each side slightly different, sit the car on it's wheels and decide which side looks how you want. Then disassemble each side and align the springplates by eye. If you're to have 944 springplate camber adjustment, set this to mid-point beforehand. Get your wheel alignment specialist to use this feature to sort your car once you have the springplates parallel.
VW people have been tweakin' torsion bars for a lot longer than the Pelican/Porsche people!
Matt
This may be of some help (if it works):
http://www.bugbabe.co.uk/year_age.html#howlow