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Bore. Most U.S. builders say the 103mm cylinders cause problems with warping and high oil temps (due to low quality). There are ways around these issues...have the cylinders cryogenicly treated to stabalize them (they may need rehoned), then have the fins coated with a high tech heat sheading coating to disipate the heat better. Have the pistons ceramic coated on the tops to insulate them from the combusion heat, allowing less heat to get to the oil and decrease the chances of detonation.
Heads. I would go with 46X38 8mm stem valves, 48mm intakes weigh alot and will require more spring pressures to control them.
Port the heads or have them done by a pro. Keep as much "squish band" as possible around the combustion chamber. Set your deck height at .040" and adjust your combustion chamber volume to get the desired compression ratio.
Compression ratio. I would run 9-1 compression, stockish engines can run this safely. Personally, I like compression. If it were my engine, I would coat the combustion chambers and valves with the Ceramic stuff too and run 10-1.....Hey wait a minute, that's exactly how I set my engine up! (94X71)
Cam. Check the WebCam site or call them for a recomendation. Be sure to use their lifters also. Also get their valve spring recomendation to go with their cam. Some of the German tuner sites have cams listed but their numbers are calculated slightly different than in the U.S. Germans tend to run longer durations that we do in the U.S., but I think they design their cams with more gentle ramps.
Carbs. I would get some Dellorto 45DRLAs or Weber 48IDFs, Weber 44 are equivelent to Dellorto 40s. I don't think the 44s would feed a stout engine at 6000 RPM.
HP. It depends on the cam you choose and the quality of the head work.
There are many ways to configure an engine. Everyone must make their own choices and compromises.
ken
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