Before anybody rebuilds Brembos, make sure you can get the seal kits. In the US, the only kits I could find had the pistons and seals about $50 US each piston kit X 8 =
. My dust boots were torn on a few pistons, so I changed all. Three suppliers told me Brembo will not sell just the seals. For some reason you have to change the pistons, too
. The old pistons are teflon coated and looked as good as the new ones. Maybe there's a heat issue. I don't know. I was told if you remove the inner seals they cannot be reused. So if all your seals and dust boots are good, it might not be a good idea to remove them. I had to remove them to powdercoat calipers, and since some boots were torn, I replaced everything.
If you still want to tear'em apart, read on. Of course, you remove the pads. Then you can take a block of wood or plastic, that fits in where the pads go(about as thick as a pad), and use this to stop the pistons as they come out. You need air pressure to get them out. Just put a blow gun in the brakeline inlet and put a small amount of air in the caliper. Be careful! The pistons can come out with speed and force that will surprise you and your fingers, if they get in the way. Once you get a few out, you need to cover the holes so you have enough pressure to get the other ones out.
The small button head screws that hold the plates inside the caliper on both ends are a PITA to remove. They sit next to the pads and rotors so they get the most heat. If you're lucky, you can heat the bolts and try to remove them. Most of mine came out the hard way because they wanted to stripout. If you can get past that part, it gets easier. After you get the plates out you can remove the crossover line(copper line)and bleed screws.
The bolts holding the caliper halves together need to be heated before removing, as they have a thread locking compound on them. Mine were still hard to remove, but finally came out. Now you should have four halves if all worked out ok.
I used a good paint stripper to get clearcoat off. If your calipers are still factory, all they have is black anodized finish inside and out. Then when halves and hardware were put together they were clear coated. I would not try removing the anodized finish, as the powdercoating works over the top of this. Also, don't coat the caliper halves where the two mate together, or where the pistons and boots go. When you put them back together there are arrows on both halves that should point in the same direction. The halves line back up easily, as the bolt holes are very close tolerance. There are no internal crossover ports, so no worry with leaks jmd.
If you spray the calipers lightly with powder, you will not have too much extra thickness. The powder coating may retain a little more heat during braking, but if your not racing it should'nt matter that much. The spindles are powdercoated, too. The whole suspension will be powdercoated blue except the ali trailing arms(just clear coated). I have another thread in the brakes section titled "Rebuild kits" that has pics before, during, and after.
As long as this post is, it should have been a tech article. Sorry.