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Dave, You hit all the things I could think of.....Jake says cryo helps aluminum disipate heat, Cryo the heads, heck, cryo the whole engine. Coat the piston tops, valves and combustion chambers (I think I would do the exhaust port also) with ceramic metalic coating to keep the heat in the combustion process and out of the heads/oil. Coat the iron cylinders and exterior of the heads with a heat sheading coating to blow off more heat. Use stock size Manley valves with undercut 8mm stems, especially on the exhaust (they will build custom sizes at reasonable prices if they don't stock what you need). Stock sodium filled valves are heavy, tend to fail (according to Jake) and have huge stems. Full flow the case (search the STF for pictures or talk to Jake), use remote oil cooler with fan, remote oil filter (the stock filter mount has several sharp corners in the oil passages) and an Acusump. Run a tight deck like .035", better quench=more complete burn=more power (you are not reving real high so .035" should be ok). Coat the piston skirt, cam, cam gears, rocker shafts, oil pump with dry film lubricant (less wear and friction). Use some ARP rod bolts. I would also run forged pistons too but that's just me. Light weight valve train always helps reliability, it is better to run light weight parts rather than more spring pressue (lighter springs also free up power). For the coatings I would go to MicrCoat in Santa Rosa CA (north bay) and talk to Bruce Corneto, phone #(707) 578-4010, he's a one man shop so you may need to leave a message if he is busy.
ken
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