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Old January 11th 2011, 14:43
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: London and kent.
Posts: 185
Hi mate, unfortunately you cant move the lower torsion arm outboard to increase negative camber due to the fixed axis of the link pins, what i do is frowned upon by those that have never done it, but i have, many times, and never had any problems, you need to reset (bend) the torsion arm eyes using heat,(a big blow torch) both upper and lower arms need doing the same amount for the k/l pin assembly to drop into the two arms smoothly, its easy if you have two blow torches! then just shim them up as usual.
personally, i don't use a front beam brace, i think this is what you mean, but yes, if its for you, go for it, they do a good job, but i don't use them because i crash a lot!! id rather the beam went than the bulkhead area, but i may need one this season, as I'm now using slick tyres, i would put it in to triangulate into the frame head area.
your ARB idea is sound also, I've put them on the top of the lower arm, and underneath on the upper arm, but you will need to clearance the spare wheel well for this.
I'm not sure coil overs will work on a k/l beam due to the length needed for the top bolt, b/j beams have a better shock tower design to allow this, as you know the k/l shock bolt is at a right angle to the shock axis, it will have a huge bending force on a long single shear bolt, maybe someone will be along soon who has actualy done it, maybe an uprated bolt fix will do the job, the off road boys must know about this problem. your bad boy wheels will be worth a go for road use before you change them, i'm in racing for track use mode most time's, try them and good luck with the project..... regards, spanners.
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