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Old April 4th 2013, 13:38
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Humble Humble is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Boulder Creek, CA
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Actually, one of the biggest arguments for a digital dash is not weight but information. You layout different "pages" on the dash and each one can report different info. It also saves time looking around at a dozen gauges for 15 seconds while you're on a straight.

As for belts, Alex is right, you want at least a 5-point, and preferably a cam lock. If you've ever put on a 4-point belt and cinched it up wrong, it'll creep up your stomach. Submarining under the belt is the same thing but happens much faster during an accident and the 5th point prevents that. I've also had to spend, probably hours now, explaining to passengers how a latch link belt works and how to put one on. It's worth the extra money for a cam lock to never go through that, coincidentally, I'm also switching to cam locks


As a rule of thumb, you can never be too safe. Consider this, a $600 seat, $300 belt, $900 fire suppression system, $800 fuel cell, $1200 roll cage, $1500 fire suit, $400 helmet, etc., seem like big purchases up front, but they can prevent tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars in hospital bills after an accident. So when you look at safety items, your foremost question should be, "How much am I worth?"


For the relay, most automotive relays will take 12v for the coil circuit. so the starter relay would look like this

T85: ground
T86: +12v from start button
T87: to starter
T30: +12v in

This is for 4 terminal relays, if there is a fifth one (87a), don't use it. Terminal 87a is a passthrough power until relay is activated then 87a goes to 0v and 87 goes to 12v.
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