well, i've read on many forums and articles that 1776 is the best non-stocker(and non-stroker) combo, and the 2007 is the best "stroker" combo, both for reliability more than power but ofcourse give a pleasent power compared to stock engine.
i'm now on building a 1776, and if i was in a country like usa or germany i would have picked the 2007, because there's no machine shop i know here will do the clearencing/matching job right, and my second reason is the mpg.
for the cases i know that AE-AD-AS is a good choices for any project, i perefere later AS because of the better alloy, just make sure they are standard cut.
my engine specs is still on papers and my head only, and i might take a long time planning, i just hope it will worth it
this is the main specs so far:
Case: used type1 AS-21
Bore X Sroke: 90.5mmX69mm, 1776cc
Pistons: Mahle 90.5(thick walls), with total seal and teflon locks
Crankshaft: 69mm Forged & C/W
Heads: Stock DP 35X32, single HD springs, or CB 044 40x35 (money talks)
Rockers: HD 1:1.1, & swivle foot adjusters
C/R: 7.7:1 to 8.2:1
Intake: FI MegaSquirt-II V3, controling 4 injectors
Ignition: EDIS driven by MS
Cam: Engle W-110 or Scat C-35, light lifters, berg chromoly push-rods
Rods: Stock
Exhaust: 1.5" merged with single quite pack
Cooling: Stock doghouse shroud w/ stock thermostat, & full-flow external oil cooler controled by MS
Other: lightened flywheel, full flow filter, maybe deep sump
this setup is supposed to rev smoothly till ~5500 with stock heads and +6k with CB heads, well i guess
the efi is more reliable than the carbs thru all the rev range, and ofcourse more effecient, maybe megasquirt is a pita to tune and install, but you'll get what worth your effort.
the c/w crank is a must for a high-rev engine for sure, and you will need it forget(not cast) when 1776 or higher, and friction also will be a problem on high revs, and the bad oil will get the engine to a fast end, then you'll need a good full-flow filter to reduce the friction effects happens due to small particles.
for the cams, we have to put in mind that our bugs can't be fitted with a vtec
, that's why the cam should be selected due to your driving condition, other parameters will affects this but the cam is the most, then the carb(or TB) size.
type4 is ofcourse the best choice in all cases(street or track), but i always think of it as a very expensive choice becuase you will not just get a type4 engine and bolt it in, you need a nice larg list for this convesion, and also type4 parts is very expensive compared to type1.
turbo is also a good idea specially when added to a reliable setups like 1776 or 2007, but the cons of the turbo is that you will suffer on high speeds, and if you pick a large turbo to fix this, you will suffer from it's lag
, again it's a matter of how you will drive your car.
for you main question, you'll have to use magic spells to tell exactly how much power your setup will give loool , you will get only estimations or a "range" close enough to the main power. for a "tepical" well built 1776 you may get a 120hp from it, most common project with a 044 heads, w110 cam, dual 40mm idf and merged 1.5" header, will give 90-100hp and maybe 110hp.
also a cooler engine is a longer life one, but it don't make any sense when cooling the oil, and forget about the heads. we know that heads gets really hot faster that oil inside the engine. cb heads is known to be stronger and it's fins is well designed to transfer heat faster than stock heads, stock style thermostat is also a perfect choice here, you should also use electronic ignition wich will give you stable timing. go efi and your engine will never be happier.
i have another option wich will sound a bit weird, did you think of converting your engine to a subaru or a wbx or even a golf mk engine???? it will cost a lot cheaper and ofcourse more reliable and drivable power.
i hope i helped a little, and good luck in your project...
Michael