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Thermostat info for james
Hi all this is for James from Conversion Perversions as i can't post pictures there, and it may interest some of you
The thermostat housing is part of the water pump and there are a few different types, on the 2.5L engine I have it came with a black plastic thermostat/hose neck that aimed the hose across the engine towards the head (oil filler side),
On this engine I used a 2L turbo thermostat/hose neck and that aimed it towards the flywheel, i just had to trim the dipstick tube support bracket (PIC A)
I used a flexible hose (i hate it) and clipped it to one of the sump bolts with a "P" clip and a cable tie and then did the same at the back of the head with a cable tie to keep the hose away from the exhaust (PIC B) and connected to the main coolant pipe (PIC C).
The hose part number is 25478 and it’s a Gates V/Flex hose 38x432mm the water pump is a GWSU-12A Grant water pump both from Repco, my suggestion is if you can’t find a thermostat/hose neck, then go to Repco and compare the correct water pump for your engine and the one I listed and if the difference is only in the location of the thermostat/hose neck mounting holes then get that pump and use your thermostat/hose neck as I’m sure you wouldn’t go to all the trouble of fitting this engine with out replacing things like water pumps, thermostats and cambelts etc, so its not like you aren’t going to buy one any way.
A few tricks on the water hose and thermostats if your going to try and keep a rubber hose in a position with a cable tie by pulling it, the hose may collapse when hot fit a hose clip over the hose and just nip it up and attach the cable tie to the hose clip this will keep the hose in shape (PIC B),
To help bleed up the cooling system modify your thermostat. You may have noticed a small hole in the thermostat (1.5-2mm) with a valve in it (looks like a bar bell) this hole is to allow some water circulation (and trapped air) and the valve is to stop reverse flow, what I do is remove the valve and drill out the hole to say 5mm this helps when bleeding the system and some believe it helps in reducing terminal shock when the thermostat opens. Also use only genuine thermostats no arguments only use genuine thermostats end of story. I have use non-genuine thermostats over the years with good results but in the last 6 years I have noticed that when fitting non-genuine thermostats to some vehicles that I have started to have problems with bleeding the system or open correctly and have massive temp changes on the gauge when the thermostat opens, switch to genuine problem goes away, I have tested genuine and non-genuine thermostats side buy side and they both open and close at the same temps, the only difference with these thermostats is the size and position of the wax and spring area.
When warm my car runs at 80-85c on the gauge all the time, in traffic, idling, motorway, once it gets to that temp it just stays there, ok I’m lying once it go to about 92c but it had been on the Dyno for over 2 hours.
Anyhow enough of my dribble, e-mail me James if I can help with anything.
Scott
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