I don't have a settlement yet, but I did get permission to start tearing it down for the repairs...
Since the body has to come off the pan, I've decided to pull some funds from the Family Heirloom project and repaint the Rally Bug. After three years of winter rallies, and a further 7 years of running, it has a couple of spots that could use it. The paint was acceptable at the time, due to budget, but could be much better. So the plan is for a non-colour change "tape and spray". Being the guy I am, though, I'm going to remove absolutely everything necessary to get a good outside repaint.
The front hood on the car was an accident-repaired hood. Turns out I have a factory original front hood that is perfect (just yellow) thanks to a friend Darren, so the original Rally Bug hood will become artwork in the shop. Interestingly, it turns out I have _two_ spare hoods, three if my other spare still exits at my buddy Rob's house. So I think that gives me a chance to spray full silver body, and a set of black hoods as well. I very carefully asked my buddy Bob, who's a 'stock is right' kind of guy, what he thought about the turn signals on the front fender. To my surprise he replied we have to fill them and go mexi-bumper...which confirms my gut reaction about the choice. As soon as the gold wheels went on the car, it gave me permission in my head to stray from the "Salzburg Replica". Just gotta be sure I can go back that way if I choose.
Looking a little deeper at the wiring, I've got some challenges ahead. The original harness I built for the car is quite robust...but definitely not built to be modified. I damaged the front rally light harness trying to get it out of the car, apparently I build part of it
after putting it through a body grommet. The way I did the Techflex wiring cover I can't actually splice into the harness for modification or repairs without damaging it, and possibly daming the internals. So, my idea of potentially modifying sections of it are pretty much out the window. If I simply leave the wiring harness and tear out anything I've added over the years, I think it will be fine. There's nothing that isn't working correctly on the original harness, although there are some circuits no longer being used. It does also have those original-style fuses which isn't great. I'll need to build a secondary harness for post-build editions, which is probably the fastest/cleanest way to do things. But it does have some negatives. I want to change the switches on the dash, and I need to dig out the gas heater wiring harness, which was (apparently) laid into the car first...under the main harness. I fear disturbing anything in the rats nest is a recipe for disaster.
Rewiring the entire car, though, is going to be a huge undertaking. I know what I
want to do. But do I have the
time (and money) to do it?
Looking ahead, I'm considering at the seat mounts I built 15 years ago (for the white '69)...and they simply have to go. If this was a fully-caged car, it would be easy. A couple of bars from the sill to the tunnel, and the job is done. It's only got a rear hoop, and I want to keep the ability to separate body from pan (especially now) so I need to come up with another solution. I talked it over last night with some race car fabricating buddies of mine, and I think we've got an idea sorted out.
I'm also thinking it's a good time to upgrade/change out the pedal box. The one I'm using isn't ideal, I've had to hack out the napolean hat on the tunnel, and on the front firewall to make it fit. I will have some sheet metal repairs to do on the body, but I'm thinking a different setup might be in order. I messaged Kevin Hale about the one he's using in the Ghia racecar he's building (Ghia Raketenhase on Facebook) and he replied in less than 10min with a video and tape measure showing me all the measurements. His OBP unit won't fit in my car (14.25" throttle pedal height) but they make one that is merely 12" to the top of the pedal. Will be measuring once I'm done typing this to see if it's an early Christmas present for me!
https://www.obpltd.com/product-page/...-pedal-system/
OBP-1 by
Dave Hord, on Flickr
OBP-2 by
Dave Hord, on Flickr