Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally
I think the latter one: if its only a tiny bit out of perpendicular (sp?), it will not fit. If the machined faces of the studs are flat and perpendicular to the mounting surface of the center of the wheel mating area, you have this same problem.
The 'whacking' to drive the studs all the way to properly seat and be perfectly perpendicular is is scaringly great (ask me how I know...), so I can imagine this could be the (simple) cause.
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We'll see how she looks when i pull it apart this weekend. Put a steel nut on the stud, tapped it with a hammer, and it didn't move. Hopefully they are aren't bent. I'll get it in a arbor press next week, to make sure they are bottomed out *fingerscrossed*.
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilC
Pete,
That bottom coilover bolt looks a tad long. There will be a substantial bending moment on the end of it particularly as you are exclusively using the coilover rather than torsion bars. Is there a clearance problem with the damper body on the alloy arm?
Clive
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The coilover spring was binding on the AL arm, and the bolt without spacers was pinching the bottom spherical bearing not allowing it to move. So i spaced it out. Probably too much.
When i get some weight in it, the uniball mounted and aligned, i'll have a better idea where the damper will sit. I'll then machine the spacers to get that bolt in further.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLKWRK
I like what you did with the oil cooler, are you going to go dry sump?
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Not yet. The carb'd 2275 going in will be full flowed. The 2332T will be drysumped.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chug_A_bug
Nice Work Buddy...
can't wait to See it out THIS summer
Chris.
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That's the plan. Friday's have become "work on the split day". I'm down to a 4-day work week.
Thanks for the comments guys! Appreciate it.
Pete