Hi Simon,
Quote:
Originally Posted by $aint
Concerning your rear suspension issues:
Is it only the toe-out on bump that is causing the issues?
Mounting the steering rack a little higher (so the tie-rods point down) might help a little.
I'm not totally sure, I have it set for 1/16 toe in static, and I would doubt I'd have such a twitchy rear end if I didn't. Havn't pulled the springs and run it through total travel yet, but I'll bet you money I've got toe change problems. I actually looked at mounting the rack higher, but I ran into a bunch of little issues, one is that the bolts are too short for the rack and are embedded into the K-member. Another is my steering lockout would have to be refabricated. I think its the wrong geometry entirely so I'm not going to waste my time on it. I'll just redesign it properly and not worry about trying to make a no-win situation better.
Is the virtual hinge-line between the front and rear mounts of the lower A-arm parallel to the car?
No, the fronts are on there own, parallel to each other, but the rears are backwards, the 'hinge-line' axis' intersect in FRONT of the car (/\) , while they should be intersecting at a point somewhere beyond the REAR (\/) as far as I know. I don't know exactly what converging pivot axis' do, but I know mine is the opposite of what I see everywhere. I was aware of this little fact before I started, but I wanted to get the thing running before I modified too many things at once.
What kind of struts do you use in the rear?
KW Variant III
Are they actually front struts?
Yes
Aren't you running out of droop travel?
I might be. I might have to move the strut plate down a bit to get more droop. Just didn't want to have too little bump travel when I was getting it all together. I wanted to make sure I could run it low enough.
|
If things work out well, I'm hoping to use the front control arm mount as the rear mount, and create a new front mount directly in front of the rear wheels. I might be able to use the alloy casting off the end of a 944 torsion housing, it has a solid rubber mount with a intergral core of aluminum. I might be able to bolt this onto the end of the torsion housing, thread the core, screw in a heim, then attach a custom built arm that connects to a second arm running from the K-member to the lower ball joint of the strut. Essentially a large A-arm with the pivots creating a V towards the back of the car, then adjust the tie-rod length and pivot points accordingly, maybe even swap the struts side to side if it is an advantage for toe changes during travel. I don't have the expertise to do this myself, I wish I did, but I'm planning on using the services of Joe Huffaker to guide me.
Jason