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I have done the conversion on my early ('66) pan and it turned out very well,but was a fair bit of work.As stated, can only be done with the body off and don't even start if you cannot weld of have someone who can to help you. I purchased the whole rear suspension from a '73 Type 3 including the trans. This whole unit just unbolts from the body. I purchased some custom made pivot brackets and hired an alignment jig from a VW supplier here in Australia.The pivot brackets were rubbish, so after getting two lots to try gave up and cut the brackets from the Type 3-it took about 10 mins with a small disc in a 5'' angle grinder and these brackets are perfect and are genuine. A couple of things to do before you start-bolt the metal bracket to the frame horns that normally supports the trans bellhousing and I made up a jig to check if the frame horns pull during welding( which they did)I used a piece of 19mm square tube, about a metre long and welded a piece of flat bar to it, and used the pan along side of the gear shift coupling opening as a reference point, and placed it rear wards above each frame horn and measured the gap down to the end of the horn(right at the point where the large bolts are holding that metal trans bracket)and record your reading.If you can't find any one with a jig you will have to make your own using someones pan as a donor.I have a drawing with sizes and materials needed to make some jigs if you need them.From here on its just straight forward with cutting into the frame for the pivot bracket to fit in the correct spot before welding. Take special care around the hand brake tubes because a little extra time here will save heaps when welding.You do not have to touch these tubes but you will get real close when cutting.I think the reason my horns pulled was because I was too fast with the welding-should have kept the whole thing a bit cooler. I also welded along each frame horn where they are spot welded at the factory.I have built up a 2.7litre Type 4 motor for mine so thought welded seams would stiffen up the horns with all the extra torque of the bigger motor. The last job is to heat up the frame horns where the CV joints go and flatten it down with a large hammer.You can check on another car to see how much you need or just slip in the trans and give it about 10mm clearance.I have used all the suspension from the Type 3 inc.the double spring plates and torsion bars and the single side plate trans.Back to the drama of my horns pulling-the tool I made showed they had pulled up 6mm which meant the back of the motor was about 15mm too high, which meant my engine bay sealing was no good.Had to get a long RSJ and chain it to the frame horn at one end and to the front beam at the other and heat and jack the frame until I got it right.So take your time when welding and keep it cool.Only have pics of before and after-none during the job.Good luck.
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