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Old November 19th 2011, 14:40
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: London and kent.
Posts: 185
Bruce, my front beam spec is nothing too special, the trick i believe is how its set up for different tracks/conditions, and getting the best from the tyres, there's many common knowledge mods that i wont use, stiffeners is one thing i avoid, at least untill i find i cant do without them, as i have no understeer whatsoever, i know its working well and so i am working on a new arb for next season, increasing from 22mm to 25, but tubular, also the rear 20mm bar robbed from a 996 is going to be replaced by a high mounted bar where the z bar would be on a standard, this bar and its fixings and the frame horns are the lowest part of the car, so i intend axing the frame horns, also to reduce weight further, ive been using a yoke for many years and ran with no frame horn fixings as a test this season to expand the feasability with no problems so far.
Anyway, to the beam, it uses split torsion bars for corner weighting purposes and to increase the poundage, i play with caster, usualy 12* but never less than two shims, some times more, to do this it needs drop spindles to prevent the tie rod bottoming on the frame. Camber is 3 1/2* with 're set' arms.. front arb is 20 mm adjustable. shoxs i play with, but keep coming back to gas spaxs. rear is 1303 with reduced camber by raised pivots, it needs reducing more so an arm flip is needed, 24mm rear tb with 20mm 996 tubular arb, i fancy 22mm short tb with saw adj' spring plates would be good too.
thats the crux of it really, nothing too special on back order to make down time painfully slow, as i do go to the edge with it and visit the wall for a chat on occasions, and most parts still have the VW logo on them. thanks for your interest.
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