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#1
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Doing this on a budget...
Not made of money I am.
So heres what I was thinking of doing with my 70 beetle: 2.0 Type 4 (need to know where to find the conversion tin) Dual 44IDFs Some kind of exhaust (don't know where you all find the awesome ones) Maybe something else to bump the performance, I don't want a trailer queen 944 trailing arms 944 brakes 944 wheels sway bars bilsteins other little suspension goodies (camber plates and stuff) Roll cage For the interior I was thinking of using 944 seats (since 944s are plentiful and cheap to get crap off of) or just a set of corbeaus, along with harnesses. Remove the back seat (save a little weight :P) remove the running boards (opinions on that one please) and just find little interior things to do (tach is a big one) As for the body I was thinking of just painting it white, and black out chrome, except the side trim which I think I'll just remove. And other ideas? I'm trying to stay low budget |
#2
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The other idea is a type one 2332.
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#3
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Sounds like you've thought about it a lot. I would stick with the suspension and brakes first as it will give you a lot of fun in a relatively inexpensive and straightforward way. 944 stuff is easy to find and cheap like you said.
Jason
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If I could just get paid for my sleepless nights.... 1960 VW Bug UBRDUB Walkaround 1st Drag Run Dyno Run Oval Ragster-'57 Rag/'04 Boxster S |
#4
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You could do a Joe Cali conversion for your engine tin. Do a google search for it and you will find the Nextgen website. Order his book and you are off.
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#5
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Ehh I decided the type 1 I shall go with- sure they have their faults, but its not a daily.
My only concern right now is getting the wonderful spindles of doom on the front of my 1970 to accept the 944 brakes. I think that I am going to look around the for the N/A model. Its just a weekend warrior- more or less to race/rape a honda now and then. Does the 944 arms help much with the handling? Also, just for sillyness purposes, does anyone make a good whale tail for a regular beetle? |
#6
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for a budget type 1 is where its at, its still a pretty penney to convert to a t4. don't do the whale dude
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#7
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http://www.germanlook.net/html/features/Feature01.php
That one. Mainly for WTF HUH factor. I was looking at a 2110cc with an EFI set up for the type one Or a 2270 EFI for the type four- N/A. Either way, I can do one, save up do the other use one for weekends at the strips the other for trips. Is the torsion bar set up going to hinder the handling? I was looking at some teledials ![]() |
#8
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Gonna have to vote no on the tail, even Jak doesn't run it anymore:
![]() I wouldn't say the torsion bars will hinder your handling, seemed to work pretty well on the 911. Here's a good link to get you started: http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/re...s/handling.htm Let's see here, removing the runningboards looks weird unless you do something about the body area that it exposes. It might be easier (and cheaper) to buy a disc brake conversion kit in a porsche lug pattern, just the single piston ones still stop pretty hard. As far as I know, 944 trailing arms are just lighter, and won't really do anything else for you. Your purpose for the car seems to kinda be all over the place, did you want to build the car for motorsports? You might consider reading the rules and restrictions on modifications for the class you'd like to run in. For the engine, it all depends on your budget. You can build either style to perform for your needs, but if you're going all-new, the type 1 will probably be easier on your wallet.
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-Mike '73 Supperbettle Sunroof ![]() |
#9
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steel 944 arms are the same as 924 and 1302/1303 arms.
i run stock brakes on the front of my 1303 race car with a disc kit on the rear useing bug front calipers, works pretty good and is much lighter than the porsche set up. all new parts and some decent pads, you will be suprised how good they are.
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my race car build galleryhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/1406263...7602662665607/ my web site www.rnjmotorsport.co.uk |
#10
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The car is just for fun, spirited daily driving and occasional sprints at the drag strip, or runs down a curvy road.
Thanks for the heads up about the trailing arms- not getting them could save me some money. Guess I can always quote the price on the brakes/hub conversion- and go with whats the most cost effective. I was thinking for the engine either a 1915cc turbo or a 2110cc turbo. If I can get a type four though I will, but I'll have to content myself with an N/A car. |
#11
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if your doing the 944 brake swap then they will fit onto the 1303 arms and stub axles. if you want to uprate to the 944 cv joints then you will need the 944 stub axles. imho you wont need to go to 944 cv joints until you have over 200bhp. i have been running bug ones for 5 years with 150rwbhp and 9" wide slicks, only broke 1 cv joint in that time and that was a 7000rpm luanch on the drag strip.
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my race car build galleryhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/1406263...7602662665607/ my web site www.rnjmotorsport.co.uk |
#12
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If youre trying to do it on a budget, I would personally stay away from the turbo.. Im in the middle of building a 1915 turbo for mine and the price has added up VERY quickly. I could have had the engine finished a LONG time ago for probably half the money I have invested thus far.. Though the turbo should be a cool little party peice once its done..
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If god had meant people to walk, whyd he invent cars? |
#13
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Doing it on a budget is all about using what you can get for cheap. and who says a whaletail doesnt look good |
#14
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#15
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Totally serious. I want to use a waterboxer now to get fuel injection. mostly because I work next to a vanagon shop so parts are cheap and plenty! (notice the vanagon radiator and fan?) |
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