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#1
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ride height suggestion
here are some pics current state after 4 tries at rear ride height (all previous to engine install). once i added the tailpipe, i am down to about 1.5" clearance and it doesn't sit right anyway. how many clicks and inside or out would you recommend i go in the rear. i am assuming the front will move down some as a result as well.
your advise is appreciated as with the 944 rear end, height adjusting is even more of a pain than stock. the entire trailing arm, CVs, etc have to come off of the car to pull the spring plates. i'm a little tired of doing this! james2 on STF has a very detail article here btw. but i used this last time and still barely made heads or tails of it. it does make sense though. just not sure if it applies the same given track changes and such with the 944 rear. thoughts? ![]() ![]() |
#2
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The rear looks spot on! The front is a little high though...
![]() I've read the tips on indexing the rear torsions and I gotta admit...I just don't grasp it. I understand the different splines at each end and the math of it but it seems like after a few turns each way, you just get back to where you started... ![]()
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No current VW projects 54 Chevy wagon LS2 AWD 56 Chevy Panel "Lost Cause" VKG Bastage child |
#3
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ride height suggestion
I agree, looks great.I wish mine sat up that high.
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#4
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I really need to come up and give you a hand with that. I have just been so busy lately... The one tool that I can recommend is a simple angle finder from SEARS or another hardware store. Mine has a magnetic base so its stays where I put it. That way you can take a reading before you move them to judge your progress and to get the spring plate angle the same on both sides. Mine are within .5 degrees of each other but that could just be the paint...
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I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car. 1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM... ![]() 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 ![]() ![]() www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe |
#5
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i went to Sears yesterday to look at them, but the one they had seemed highly inaccurate. the needle wouldn't move until you moved 3 or more degrees and then it just swung over. i bought a T-Bevel which should be some kind of help.
i've got most of the rear end ripped off. decided to pull the whole arm off (it mostly has to be released anyway) so i can relube the inner pivot bushings. they, or could be the spring plate bushing, were squeaking like hell. going to paint the rotor hats too. they are already rusting. my left spring plate/torsion bar has always released on the inside first. makes adjustments a real pain. i have the added pleasure of having my fenders on now. i'm going to have to pull the left one just to get the bar out. so much for all of that fine tuning to get the lines to match. ![]() figured i would take this opp to go over everything though. going to retorque everything underneath. finish up some wire covering. have to adjust front bearings (too much play). still need to get the shock tower plates welded on too. install oil temp sender finally. paint tailpipe (still need to find tip). that should cover it...for the underside. still have many small items to take care of up top. |
#6
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Quote:
Might want to leave the plates off. When I put my body back on my chassis for the hurricanes I realized that there isn't enough clearance between the towers and the body and the body won't sit flat on the pan. Or in your case you might not be able to get the plates in. I am having to jack up my body up with a floor jack and grinding the tower plates down just so my body will sit flat and then I can put my seats in... ![]()
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I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car. 1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM... ![]() 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 ![]() ![]() www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe |
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