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#1
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Hi Steve,
There really is no need to remove or shorten the torsion tubes as I have learned in my recent 915 install. Pictures are in this section of the site. When you remove just the thick piece of steel welded-in plate to where the M10 thread pieces hang from (the ones that you bolt the T1 nose trans mount to), and shove the 915 trans just a few mm's from the torsiontube center, you have the same or even sligthly more clearence at the rear bellhousing of the trans than you had with a type 1 tranny!! Moving the trans even further to the front of the car, will result is misaligned axles, which may not be a problem (especially if you have long enough axles and bus CV's for instance). Regards, Walter |
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#2
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Hi
Im hanging a great big lump of Subaru out the back of my car, so getting the weight forward 4 inches will help with weight distribution. Steve
__________________
STI powered 1303 in the works. |
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#3
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i think cutting the torsion is a good idea i have not cut them out on my car but wished i had as the deep sump on my type 4 is pretty close to the ground.
for your super rude impessa engined volksy i would hack out mr torsion. |
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#4
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Quote:
Also, remember that AFAIK, the torsion tube does give quite some structural strength to the chassis, not unimportant with big, torque engines. |
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#5
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oops i wasnt paying attention
sorry wally ..on my bug with the 915 in i would have liked the gearbox to be raised (as i have deep sump)in the floor pan but the torsion tube is in the way.If the torsion tube was cut out of the center and the nose cone of the gearbox positioned in the center it would fit great.I could not mount my gearbox above the torsion tube like ricola because the engine would sit to high. As it is with the 915 it has pushed the engine back about an inch |
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