Another beetle audio install - progress pics

[hybrid_john]

Nice, once again Das! :agree:
Nice reciever upgrade as well...Alpine is one of the best out there.
Oh and what size of componant speakers were you able to fit into the kick panels? I might only be able to fit 5.25 if i install the tweeters into the kicks as well...other wise I might put them some where in the dash or something.

let us know how the sub sounds once everything is going...i still havent made my decision on that part

[Dasdubber]

Started on the kick panels today - masked up the footwell area, then applied foil with spray adhesive to contain the resin and to enable me to remove it all!



Applied two layers of glass and resin to form a base for the kicks that will wrap around in front of the pedals to get a bit more volume for the dyns. Work will continue tomorrow.

[Troy_Audio]

Awsome...
you did that with the windows up right..
I heard it makes them sound better

Keep it up man
Peace Troy

[Dasdubber]

hehehe..

Pulled out the fibreglass base today and trimmed to size...next week will hopefully see some additional layers to the base as well as mount the mdf rings for woofer and tweeter.

[volkdent]

As usual, a bang up job. Glad to hear you finally got some good advice from someone re: components. I've landed on Alpine head units myself after years of being a slave to Sony.

Some words of advice. As you apply more layers of fiberglass, the two layers you currently have will start to fold in on themselves and distort. The way to keep this to a minimum is to roll out as much of the resin as you can so the resin/matt ratio is as low as possible.

You've probably figured out the fleece stretching idea if your looking at MDF rings for the speakers.

See what the air volume is for your mids. I used Quart Q's for mine, and the volume requirement is much more than a kick panel pod can fit. If you find the sound is small and restricted in the midbass area, an awesome way to fix it is to port the enclosure.

I had cut a hole in the metal near the bottom of the kick panel to access the heater tubing connection for the hose that heads up to the top dash vents, as I couldn't reach the area any other way. I was able to use hose clamps there to solidly mount the flex tubing.

The hole in the metal allowed an exit point for the vent in the back of the enclosure. I used some sticky sided weather proofing around the vent and sealed it to the hole in the metal, allowing the backpressure to vent to the luggage compartment and not into the interior. The sounds was instantly improved and the depth of the midbass much lower.

I also have my sub up front to keep the sound all coming from the front and to try to neutralize the rear weight bias of the car a bit. I really have liked the results.

http://www.geocities.com/volkdent/BugInterior.html

Jason

[Troy_Audio]

Nice Jason..
That SS 805 is a choice amp..
I just got rid of afew so my buddies could run some oldschool power..
Nice setup.. If you get sick of the JL try Image Dynamics. The subs are sick.. small air space/low power & they pound w/SQ
Peace out Nice work everyone..

[Dasdubber]

Thanks Jason, so when you say resin to matt ratio as low as possible, this means using as little resin as possible right?

Regarding your port, that is a neat idea to vent to luggage area...I'm a little reluctact to drill/cut into all my new paint (Even though it will be hidden anyway)....would it be detrimental if I have to port it into the interior?

I've tried to maximise volume by wrapping the pods around in front of the pedals etc - won't be anywhere near as large as door volume but was hoping that would help a little.

Cheers for the tips/advice - I am pretty new to all this audio stuff so any help is appreciated.