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#1
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not to mention it looks weaker if you ask me, the two drops that support the frame horns are connected a distance in from the mounts. if you tried to preload the frame horn you'd probably start to bend the crap out of the horizontal support beam. I agree poor design, but hopfully the price causes others to lower theirs.
rip
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Rip H. Van Winkle "The Ultimate Sleeper" |
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#2
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Lanner,
I agree. My Cup Brace (The proper one ) has nicely machined aluminum ends ... very similar to the Heigo stuff. As a test, I put a jack underneith one of the frame horns to lift the car ... guess what .... no measured flex with a dial indicator. I know I made the right choice.An interesting side note is the rear suspension has been made stiffer with the addition of the brace. I had to adjust my whiteline swaybar and made it one notch looser. Sandeep |
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#3
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so lanner when will you start making these
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Rip H. Van Winkle "The Ultimate Sleeper" |
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#4
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It's kinda in the works. Still marinating over the details in the noggin. The ends are the hardest part to make. It'll be all aluminum if/when it gets done. I'm trying to figure out how to make it bolt in without compromising the structural integrity.
Easy, Lanner |
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#5
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just wondering
I don't know much about chassis set ups on bugs, but I have ot ask- why are these always bolt in adjustable kits? could you do the same thing by just welding high strength tubes in, kind of roll-cage style? What are the adjusters for?
I guess I'm trying to justify the price when I think a fabrication shop could just weld something in. |
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#6
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bugpack freggin sucks. so far everything ive gotten from them is defective, crappily designed, or just plain falls apart. ive learned my lesson about sticking with factory parts if at all possible.
btw i have a couple friends inside bugpack, im not rooting for another company, just my opinion. got a question regarding the heim joint debate. When i installed mine, i put a little preload into all the bars, which in turn should not allow any side to side movement, maybe back and forth, but then those bars are pushing on the framehorns, i cant see how they would move....
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www.subynotch.com |
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#7
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I was looking through aircooled.net's site and I noticed an addition to the description for their kafer bar. Looks mightly similar to my rant a couple of posts (#3, April 28/05) up. Change a few words here and there, but unless you're a bilnd man....
For your viewing pleasure: " It's also important to note that there are copies of this device that are showing up. Most of them use Heim rod ends. Think about this; Heim rod ends are designed to be used on an articulated link (a link that must move). For the Heim Joint to swivel within the socket, there must be clearance ( If there was no clearance, the ball wouldn't move). So from an engineering perspective, it makes ZERO SENSE to use heim joints for a stiffening component. For a link that has to rotate, it's great, but for a link that is intended to be stiff and not move, is is the worst connection you can use. The ACN KCB uses solid clevis ends, which is the most stout and solid connection you can use on your car, and they will not wear or loosen. " http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...RC0006&cartid= Hmmm, atleast give credit where it's due. I pride myself of developement. Everything I sell I have personally developed. I've never purchased something and "reverse engineered" a product. I've done it the old fashioned way; the triple-C method. Calipers, Calculator and CAD. It's the only way I'll put my name on something. I haven't yet had anyone copy my product (although I'm sure the future holds many surprises), but to copy my ideas? JC, I'm calling you out. No hard feelings, but throw some props my way! Lanner Last edited by flat; May 14th 2005 at 22:09. |
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