Suby-conversion advice?

[73notch]

theres pics on my site mikey that show how to run it down the tunnel, which is what i did.

1.5-1.75 inch pipe seems excessive in my mind. I mean, the subaru has like a 1 inch inside diameter outlet! and maybe 1.25 inlet.

Just trying to save you guys some room, and limit the amount of coolant u are going to need, and trust me, its ALOT.

-Ryan

[Mikey]

Thanks Oasis, anything helps.

73Notch, I was kinda figureing that the radiator I had came with bigger inlet and outlets than I needed. I was gonna ask you about your Suby, I either never remembered or you were away from AIM.

What do you think about using 1.25 for send and return? still too much?

As for going though the tunnel. I'm not sure if that's possible since my wish bone doesn't unbolt like yours.

[73notch]

all i did was widen the hole that the shift rod from the tranny goes through. Id assume that its the same or very similar on a bug.

the tubes exit side by side out the back, but run on top of eachother on the passenger side of the tunnel and exit on top of eachother out the front.




-Ryan

[tom'72]

nicely done 73notch, coolant pipes on my EJ20TT are 1.5 inch outside diameter by the way. I've put my tubes underneath the car and it took just over 20 liters in total if I remember correct.

[Axl]

Originally Posted by tom'72

nicely done 73notch, coolant pipes on my EJ20TT are 1.5 inch outside diameter by the way. I've put my tubes underneath the car and it took just over 20 liters in total if I remember correct.

I like the clean install of the pipes , but I still would be worried about damage from hitting the exposed pipes . If nothing else , I would at least make a type of shield to cover them . Axl .

[Mikey]

Thanks for the pictures. but the Type 3's and Type 1's aren't even similar. There's no way I could run it though the tunnel like that. Especialy when it gets to the frame horns I have a big 914/01 stuck in there.

I'm still thinking...

I've got an idea rolling around in my head, I'll need a little time before I can pan it out. sorta speak.

[tom'72]

I would at least make a type of shield to cover them

I will be doing that in a few months when the suby engine is transplanted to my IRS chassis, wouldn't want to go from watercooled to aircooled in a matter of seconds

[Mikey]

Just a few random thoughts.

The idea I was trying to pan out, was running straight aluminum pipe till the pan starts to curve. then run SS braided lines. but I found the SS lines are expensive. I thought this would work since I didn't have means of bending pipe. Since then I'd rather rent a bender than buy the SS lines.

People say sheild the pipes. I don't remember the last time I felt rocks hitting the bottom of my car. Bottoming out the car? Has anyone that doesn't drive a lowrider bottomed their car out? I have never.

Wouldn't 1/16th wall thickness be strong enough? 1.5 OD - 1/16th wall thickness = 1-3/8 ID. (1/8th for both walls)

I had what I would almost call, a vision. I saw the pipes running together under the car like the picture above. (Tom'72's) but put a peice of C-channel. On top, as a cover. Almost like the C-channel I used to hold my radiator. but with differant dimentions.

I want to plan this out carefully, so if I need to do something, like change transmissions, pull the engine, change beams. what ever I want, it won't take an act of congress to get the water lines and other obsicles out of the way.

Please excuse the rants. That's one reason I started this thread, So I can ask any question or say almost anything (about the subject) and not feel like I'm hyjacking.