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#1
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I have just done this conversion and used ricola's excellent drawings i have a nice set up now like you i went and got disc stubs for some reason thinking that was what you needed . when you get the drum stubs you might find that you have to machine down the backing plate locating ring as my hub was just catching also used the dimensions on here for the caliper adaptor plates
Sorry for the rusty pic garage got flooded
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#2
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Disc stubs
Thanks for the pic ,
I spent some time at the weekend measuring my disc stubs to see if i can use them .I have figures out that i need to drill the two M10s for the bracket 8mm in front of the back plate mounting holes which have the same pitch of 56mm .What i did find strange is that the mounting point measured from the rear bearing shoulder to the caliper mount is the same .This means that i need to gain the 10mm for the bracket.I can gain the 3mm from deepening the hub and the rest from machining the stub axle as you did the drum one .This leaves 10mm of tapped hole for the bracket and makes the caliper sit as the original spec.Of course i then have to cut the original vw mount back.Incidently i have build up up my stubs with weld and machined to use the porka bearing .I may regret this as it seems to use an imperial race 3/4 and 1"1/4.
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The wisest mind has something yet to learn |
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#3
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I like the idea of that i did look at using disc stubs first of all but had a set of drum ones laying around so i took the easy route
Iwould be intersested to hear if the welding works as i think i would prefer that to the spacers i have used |
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#4
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I have nearly completed the disc stubs and will post a picture soon .The built up diameters seem ok ,although i did make a spacer for the seal diameter .I did also
have to plug the 7mm tapped hole for the original back plate, as it would just break into the caliper bracket mount holes.What is apparent is the far graeter amount of surface area for the bracket to sit on compared to the drum axle. I am looking forward to getting this sorted but i still have to narrow the rear trailing arms to finish the major bits .
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The wisest mind has something yet to learn |
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#5
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I have just done this. Write up to follow soon on www.fastbug.net. 944 aluminium hub machined and then fitted with steel inserts to take beetle bearings and oil seal. Drum axles used and all I need is the correct shape steel plate and a spacer to hold the brake caliper. I created detailed CAD drawings which I will also make available.
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fastbug.net | FastTrack Dub Club "Straights are the boring bits that link corners together" |
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#6
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Thanks ,I went down a diiferent route and used the porsche bearings .Those beetle ones look very small in that 944 hub.
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The wisest mind has something yet to learn |
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#7
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The bearings are not carrying any more weight, so why not use beetle ones..
![]() Here's my solution. Full write up at http://www.fastbug.net/node/219 Using this image you can see the difference between the beetle spindle and Porsche hub. ![]() Spacers where created to go into the hub to hold the beetle bearings. The hub was shortened at the back edge and a spacer inserted to hold the seal. The result? Custom hubs that use beetle parts, but allow the mounting of a Porsche disc, and with minimal track increase. Chris aka CSP
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fastbug.net | FastTrack Dub Club "Straights are the boring bits that link corners together" |
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