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Old August 27th 2007, 00:24
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Big Problem: Need guidance

pics here ( just click on 'beetle')
Hi, I'm trying to bolt up the EJ20 to my T1 Transaxle and am having some difficulty. I've done this before (kind of) when putting an EJ22 non-turbo in my '69 van however I'm running into some problems. Ok, down to the nitty gritty: I've turned the rear tranny mount around to move the unit ahead and fabricated a front mount (solid mounting) and made the rear mounts solid. My engine block has two mounting bolts at the top, a dowel pin on either side in the middle, and two holes at the bottom. The two holes at the bottom are in the same spot as the tranny mounts so the adaptor kit i have doesn't have those holes drilled in it. Instead, there are small aluminum blocks which bolt to the plate with two bolts and into the original subaru engine mount holes. (see pics). The problem I am running into, in case you haven't figured it out yet, is with the rear tranny mount flipped, the bolts for the two small aluminum blocks won't fit AND more importantly the two large frame horn bolts won't fit .

My ideas to fix this:
1. Weld the aluminum blocks in place and weld the tranny mount to the frame horns
2. cut the adaptor plate so the frame horn bolts fit and build rear tranny mounts with holes to allow use of the lower holes on the subaru engine.

As a side note, I think I might pull the dowl pin out of the subaru case and thread the holes on both sides and put a bolt in each. Also, disregard the hole at the very top of the adaptor plate, and the two large ones at the bottom, these are for bolting to a newer engine I think. The four small holes at the bottom are for the aluminum blocks.

SO, I'm in need of wisdom and inspirationg..! Comments on my ideas? How is everyone else's built? Any new/better ideas? Thanks
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Old August 27th 2007, 05:11
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You have to use countersunk bolts for the lower two positions, I ended up havign to get some made as they are metric fine, the alternative is to retap the block to a standard pitch. I'd keep the dowels if I were you, they locate the adapter plate more accurately than the bolts. Just clearance your adapter plate for the trans bolts too...

Rich
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Old August 27th 2007, 10:30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricola View Post
You have to use countersunk bolts for the lower two positions, I ended up havign to get some made as they are metric fine, the alternative is to retap the block to a standard pitch. I'd keep the dowels if I were you, they locate the adapter plate more accurately than the bolts. Just clearance your adapter plate for the trans bolts too...

Rich
by trans bolts are you refering to the bolts that screw into the frame horns?

If I countersunk the lower bolts then I probably wouldn't need the aluminum blocks which solve the frame horn bolt problem, however, to mount the engine to the tranny I would then need to mate the engine up, put the top bolts in, support the tranny and remove the rear mounts, put the lower bolts in and then put the lower mounts back in.. all because the adaptor plate holes aren't threaded so the plate has to be bolted to the tranny first

Mike
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Old August 27th 2007, 16:14
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ah, didn't realise it's bolted to trans first, any reason you didn't do it like other kits?
Rich
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Old August 27th 2007, 16:56
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I actually wasn't sure how the other kits were done. This way I figured it would be stronger with bolts and nuts rather than threading the aluminum plate.
It would be a pain, But I think I could live with the last option mentioned: cut plate so it clears frame horn bolts, drill and countersink holes for bottom engine bolts. THen, when mounting, bolt the top two in, remove the tranny mounts with a jack under the engine still, insert the bottom engine bolts, then put the mounts back in and I'll be set!

Unless, of course there are any other ideas/suggestions?

Mike
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Last edited by Eatoniashoprat; August 27th 2007 at 17:03.
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Old August 27th 2007, 20:36
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actually now that I look at it again I'll take your advice Rich, I'll cut the plate to clear the frame horn bolts, countersink the bottom engine bolts and heli-coil my adaptor plate so it will work the same as yours. Wish me luck
mike
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Old August 28th 2007, 04:50
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Hope it works out for you!

As you are working in this area, I would suggest looking on the subaruvanagon yahoo group and vwrx.com some guys in the US have modified the KEP adapter plate for strength using different bolting methods...

Rich
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