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Old May 20th 2011, 17:50
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aartjan aartjan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilC View Post
Why do you have both? You ought to only need one particularly for a road car? The balance bar set up will give a huge variation in bias on its own.

Clive
Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml
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Old May 21st 2011, 14:56
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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Originally Posted by aartjan View Post
Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml
Thanks Aart-Jan, thats good reading.
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Old May 21st 2011, 14:58
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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Today I started on making the anti rollbar brackets, This anti rollbar started it's live on a pink "killer Kitty" opel.




Paul.
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Last edited by fahrvergnugen; May 21st 2011 at 15:04.
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Old May 21st 2011, 16:07
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Guys, its not wise to mess with expensive changes in cylinder sizes from just pedal 'feel' alone without running the pads in on the fly for a good bit, it can make a huge improvement to the pedal height and save you chasing your tail, frame type sliding calipers need a lot of running in, personally, a mechanical balance bar is far preferable to hydro valves which also affect pedal feel, i don't like these and avoid them like the plaque, as Clive says, you shouldn't need both.
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Old May 25th 2011, 15:03
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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First fitment test of the anti-rollbar, I think it needs a little modifications.



Paul.
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  #6  
Old May 25th 2011, 16:38
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Wally Wally is offline
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Looking good again! Sway bars can be thicker then you think, so these may just be 'right'
Maybe turn-around that tack welded bracket 180 degrees so you have more free room for the bar to move?
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  #7  
Old May 26th 2011, 14:29
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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Looking good again! Sway bars can be thicker then you think, so these may just be 'right'
Maybe turn-around that tack welded bracket 180 degrees so you have more free room for the bar to move?
Thanks Wally,

I am thinking of turning it 90 degrees, this way the uniball kan move freely. I moved the a-arm up and down and the sway bar does not hit a thing.
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Old May 26th 2011, 08:17
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Originally Posted by aartjan View Post
Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml
I don't deny that the two could complimenty each other but I doubt whether many on here have the ability to be able to fine tune the braking characteristics to optimise retardation, hence my reference to road car where the load changes would merit constant fiddling and tinkering in a desparate effort to get the best retardation. I'm a strong advocate of the KISS principle and adding in too many variables and adjustments that are beyond the simple running of a vehicle detracts severly from enjoyment.
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