1.8t Mid-Engine 1960 UBRDUB - Page 8

Wally · #1 October 12th 2011, 03:30

Car and its stance does look superb! Love the blue wheels

How does the cooling hold up?
198 whp isn't bad for a start either

At what rpm was that?

**volkdent** · #2 October 12th 2011, 04:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally

Car and its stance does look superb! Love the blue wheels

How does the cooling hold up?
198 whp isn't bad for a start either

At what rpm was that?

Thx guys! So far so good on the cooling, those big cooling fans aren't really equalling driving speeds, and the thermostat controlled fans just cycle on and off. The IC is more worrysome, we were cooling it down with spray bottles between runs, but I really don't know what the final cooling system will be for that.

198 whp isn't bad, but we are hoping for more like 240 whp by upping the boost at all rpm using one of these:

I found a decent deal for $460 for it. These are very good boost controllers for the price, featuring a cool programming feature that allows for gear specific boost control. For drag racing, you might need to limit boost till a higher gear to minimize wheel spin, and this thing lets you do that.

As I recall it was hitting the max hp at 6600 rpm, and at about 14 psi of boost, Lawrence is hoping to hit and maintain more like 16-18 psi early and holding it using the boost controller. He was surprised we hit almost 130 mph in 4th, apparently I've got a sort of tall gearbox.

I totally forgot to mention I've also installed one of these:

I picked it up from Summit Racing for about $400. We installed an additional injector at the hot side of the IC to maximize the ICs cooling effect, and the larger one in the standard location at the cool side. It works so well that if you run it on test mode, just spraying at lower boost while the engine is running, the IC actully gets cold to the touch. Typically this system is progressive, increasing the volume of Meth sprayed based on boost level. The testing and tuning used about 1/5 of a gallon of Meth, and I installed the tank in the spare tire well so I can inspect the level at each gas fill up.

Pics to come on these, sorry.

Both of the "ricer" add ons will help the car have more HP and keep a higher margin of safety at the current boost levels AND at the higher boost the GT28RS will produce, so it's a win win. These have been around for years and have proven themselves extensively, funny that I've never seen either in a air or wc VW?!

Jason

Wally · #3 October 12th 2011, 05:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by volkdent

Both of the "ricer" add ons will help the car have more HP and keep a higher margin of safety at the current boost levels AND at the higher boost the GT28RS will produce, so it's a win win. These have been around for years and have proven themselves extensively, funny that I've never seen either in a air or wc VW?!

Jason

Have you looked in my thread?

I ran and run ~300 WHP at 15 psi with the GT3076R and the same with the even larger turbo now, so I can pretty much assure you your bigger GT28RS will give a lot more hp (I guess your +40hp is very possible), even at the same boost

A larger intercooler as you have now should go a long way before it saturates with heat. With higher boost levels the water/meth injection helps prevent detonation and makes really high boost levels possible, but more then 22-23 psi with the 28RS will probably bring not much more after that.
Maybe log the IAT?

**volkdent** · #4 October 12th 2011, 06:13

I've only got the tiny stock KO3s turbo right now, I think the +40 hp with it seems a little high, but I don't underestimate my tuners abilities. He's never blown up a motor and has built the only Supra turbo to run in the 9s in the quarter with stock internals.

With the GT28RS it should make close to 350whp. I just want to keep my spool up rpm/time to a minimum, so the GT28RS is the happy medium I think will be the final setup, just trying to make the most of the stock setup for now.

We can watch the manifold air temps, and they have never gone over 120 deg, but again that is with the small turbo, things will get more interesting for coolant temps, air temps, and clutch when the 28RS goes in. I may not "feel the need" after the boost controller is added, we'll have to wait and see.

Jason

spannermanager · #5 October 12th 2011, 13:18

Jason, my tests on rear 1/4 window ducts showed flow so poor, with my rads over the trans, they appeared to reverse flow at times, if your street legal you can run good 'tuft tests', also, if your feeding into the cabin, be carefull with high speed internal cabin pressure build up when they may stop flowing suddenly just as you need even more flow, not good, its easily possible to blow a plastic window out with internal pressure, as i had to run tests at night with a mate and a torch in the back as observer, they were a bit limited, but it was life or death for my motor as the ducts feed engine cooling, so i made up guide vanes to turn the air into the ducts, not pretty, but it works, so no worries now..

Jadewombat · #6 October 12th 2011, 16:15

Have you seen this?

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...t=aerodynamics

The undertray, spoiler, bonnet vent is a similar issue he had with an old Maxima turbo, no flow across the intercooler and making the radiator work harder.

spannermanager · #7 October 13th 2011, 13:56

I had seen it, but thanks for the input, mostly nobody shows aero in plan, which for rear side window ducts is where we have a huge problem, look at a bug from your first floor window and you will see the 1/4 window problem, and it gets worse at high speed, oval owners will have wondered why semaphores lift right out at 60 mph, at 75 they're right up and wont go any higher, ...

**volkdent** · #8 October 15th 2011, 02:44

I havnt even started testing, want to wait until the roof lip is installed to see if that will create a low pressure area that I can exit the NACAs flow to. Otherwise the air may be flowing backwards as mentioned.

Jason

70Turbobug · #9 October 15th 2011, 06:34

Quote:

We can watch the manifold air temps, and they have never gone over 120 deg, but again that is with the small turbo, things will get more interesting for coolant temps, air temps, and clutch when the 28RS goes in.

I think your temps will drop with the larger turbo also.The 28RS is much more efficient at that level of boost than the k03,If you´re close to maxxing out that K03,then the temps go up aswell because you´re moving out of its efficiency range requiring more cooling of your intake charge.BTW your car really looks fantastic! I really like the modern elements you integrated!

Mark

ricola · #10 May 30th 2012, 13:51

lol, I remember you talking about it a while back, in for the long haul!!
Rich

**volkdent** · #11 July 11th 2012, 17:03

Yeah, I'm a total NUT Rich! Got it coming next Monday hopefully. 2004 Boxster S, 85k miles, totally straight chassis, perfect interior, $7k. Pics to come as the butcher sessions begin!