#1
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rear Apron
hey guys I'm thinking about putting rear Apron holes for Cooling and
air flow... soo how many do you think I should put and how big?? was thinkabout I could fit 4 nice 3" holes??? let me know your thoughts thanks Chris.
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74 Std. GL 08 Vw rabbit 18 WR250R 07 Chevy 3500 Dually |
#2
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ya i support. i like it to where they make the holes follow the shape of the rear apron, using different sized holes to acomplish this look. ill try and find a pic of what im talkin about to get your gears turning. also while your at it (if you havent already...) make the rear apron removable. me and my roomate are now doing it to all of our cars. you can do it and still retain a factory/unmolested look! no one even knows it is till pull it off!
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#3
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i agree completely with making it removable
my black bug has been like it for nearly 20 years but ive only just done it to my superbeetle and its one of the best mods ive ever done when its on you would never know unless u look so close you noticed the welds near the seal are cut through but loosen off the 2 lower guard bolts and off it comes makeing engine work and removal so much easier the holes in the aprons are more cosmetic/weight reduction as on there own theyre not going to give any cooling improvement
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1974 Germanlook 1303 SUBA-beetle Subaru EJ254, BoostR 17", topline suspension, 4 wheel discs and A/C |
#4
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thanks Cook I know what you mean but would like to See a Pic I have Been looking...
and Buggin 74 the Holes Will let Hot air from the header and Engine out when the car is Moving and YES they just Look Cool and it's to late to make it removalble it's going for Paint on tue-wed... just Need to turn the Carbs to Drive it there Chris.
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74 Std. GL 08 Vw rabbit 18 WR250R 07 Chevy 3500 Dually |
#5
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even after paint you can still make it removable. it does suck with how many spot welds VW put on their just to hold on a darn apron. ive now made a templete so when i drill out all the spot welds, the sides are full of holes, so i just cut both sides off, and replace them with a new piece on each side so i dont have to spend all the time filling all the holes back up. well again, i cant wait to see your car with shiney pain on it. mines headed for a paint job soon as well.
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#6
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as cookvw said it can be done without marking the paint work
i removed my apron only 2 months ago but my bug was painted 8 years ago and i havent done any touch ups, i didnt even fill in any of the holes where i drilled the spot welds out, you dont see them once the aprons in place i will at a later date you'll find the holes with do the opposite to what your saying, same as the engine lid vents the air will actually go in thro them as it passes over not come out
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1974 Germanlook 1303 SUBA-beetle Subaru EJ254, BoostR 17", topline suspension, 4 wheel discs and A/C |
#7
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This is a modification I would like to do on my 71 super. Do you have a side profile pic of this? inside and out. Thank you. Dave
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#8
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in my engine conversion thread on aussieveedubbers it shows everything i went through to get mine off
its about the 6th post down http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/v....php?tid=77027
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1974 Germanlook 1303 SUBA-beetle Subaru EJ254, BoostR 17", topline suspension, 4 wheel discs and A/C |
#9
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Hi
You can buy special spot weld drill bits, they don't make as much swiss cheese as a normal drill bit. Also after cleaning a wave with the oxy torch will show up spot welds. Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. Last edited by Steve C; July 21st 2009 at 09:37. Reason: Can't spell |
#10
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Sooo....Chris, will it be at Bugfest on Sunday with new shiny paint?
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'72 super '65 bus '52 split |
#11
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NO Still getting Alex to help me Dial in the Carbs... they aren't Being Nice but getting
WAY better thanks to the Carb Doc lol
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74 Std. GL 08 Vw rabbit 18 WR250R 07 Chevy 3500 Dually |
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