#31
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Hello Tim,
Let's talk this offline, shall we? May I email you? Sprint. |
#32
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Amen brother!
Quote:
I heard the source of the failed dickbush tradgedy was volksworld, I don't know I don't read it. If it's in there please confirm. I get mail asking about my 4 wheel 4pot from all over the world. This is where I send 'em! If they don't come from here For my convenience, I'll cut/paste and add a bit of sent mail: At the front I used the stub-axles, 298mm vented discs and 4pot Brembos from a 1987 model 944Turbo. I had to fit anti-bumpsteer bushes to the steering arms to invert the outer track-rod ends. You'll need to change your 15mm ball-joints for 17mm ones from Kerscher in Germany. I also used Kerscher adjustable struts with 80mm Eibach springs and Koni adjustable inserts. The stub-axles also needed the strut mounting holes welding up and re-drilling 5mm closer together, keeping equal spacing between the holes and the edge of the mounting lugs on the forgings. Also the strut mounting tab of the stub-axle needed 3mm(1.5mm each side) shimming inside the strut clamp. New from VW strut mounting bolt(top)/camber adjusting eccentric washer strut bolt(lower) and ball joint pinch bolt from a 80's golf/scirocco/jetta will do nicely. All M10 as opposed to Bug's M8 pinch bolt. I also fitted a 23mm anti-roll bar, again from Kerscher. The quality of their kit is second to none. TUV approved I believe. You'll need a German friend for www.kerschertuning.de At the back I'm using the stock Bug trailing arms and a 16mm 944 rear anti-roll bar. 298mm vented discs, Aluminium back plates, Aluminium calliper mounts, 4pot Brembo's and handbrake set from a 1986 944Turbo, leaving out the 21mm wheel spacer and fitting the 21mm shorter wheel studs from a 1987 944Turbo. The callipers are shimmed ~3mm to the centre of the disc. You'll need to make up some longer brake hard-lines for all 4 callipers, same unions as the Bug. I also use Goodridge stainless braided flex hoses and DOT4 brake fluid. The stock master cylinder displaces more than enough fluid to move the 16 pistons, no problem. Front/rear bias is sweet. Don't be told otherwise ;-) The pedal effort necessary to stop the car requires a hydraulic pressure barely high enough to operate the brake light switch! So I fitted a micro-switch to earth to the bulk-head with a small 16amp relay at the brake light connector by the brake fluid delivery pipes. A M8 bolt in a 30mm piece of fuel hose is strapped to the m/c push rod. The bolt head is adjusted to make contact with the switch at a selected pedal position and is wired in parallel with the original. Devastating braking if you want, Check your mirror!!!! :coffee: Rack and pinion, the track-rods need work as does the rack if you're running biggerrrrrrrrims I'm working on adjustable steering limit Bug rack conversion. I'm currently using 2 shims in the rack, 22 and 28mm I recall. Matt Last edited by MattKab; March 24th 2003 at 20:07. |
#33
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I don't remember the issue of Volksworld it was as I don't subscribe either but they had an article that recommended this procedure of welding and drilling the spindles along with the added shims. This article, which included the ball joint shim, was denounced in a later issue due to safety issues and a reader that had crashed his car.
I don't feel hat welding, drilling, and adding shims to such a critical suspension piece is safe (to say the least). My plan is to take some 951 (944 Turbo) struts and build a coil-over kit to fit the Super, much like I did with these. Although this is still not the best, it is the lesser of the two evils because if a spring fails the worst thing is the car will drop and perhaps pull to one side. If a welded/drilled/shimed spindle fails the fate will be much like that of a ball joint failure. |
#34
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#35
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How much are the MBT kits? I did download the pricelist, but I can't read German....
Sprint. |
#36
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The complete kit is $2500 (or more depending on what calipers you want) but the front hubs and spindle mounts are $800.
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#37
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Are the hubs different?
I'm thinking of using 944 spindles, hubs and rotors with just their adaptor to fit the Turbo brakes... Will it work? Or am I on crack? :silly: Sprint. |
#38
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Their kit is to fit the Porsche disc and caliper to the VW spindle.
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#39
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#40
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Quote:
With respect to '87 944T stub and Kerscher Golf style strut in my case: Obviously when undertaking such procedures, a great deal of thought and attention to detail has to be paramount. Being an Engineer myself I know when and where to seek the right experience, facility and quality. MOT Inspector, Coded Welder, Chartered Precision Engineer, that kind of help. I'm satisfied with my ride and so are they Very important to me. In this particular component interface, a properly* modified stub-axle is stronger than a modified strut clamp IMO. Again, the lesser of two evils. Also the stub-axle won't have the same garrantee as a new strut, cosidering the whole new assembly comes pre-assembled, best to leave it alone. I never warmed to the idea of using caliper 'adapters' considering the appearance and the massive grip and braking torque the Porsche Engineers had in mind. I'm going for a drive... Last edited by MattKab; March 25th 2003 at 15:51. |
#41
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you lot out there need too listen to superman about porsche spindles on late 2 bolt struts. DO NOT SHIM THE BALL JOINT YOU ARE DICING WITH DEATH, i do this conversion on a regular basis for my customers and i only use the speical ball joints that are availble from many german tuning shops .regards Lee L.A.Performance.
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#42
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also while iam here check out our website we do our own struts why bother with all the hassle of modding porsche ones when you can buy a complete kit for £350 a pair and there on my 03 that regularly appears on the front page of this site regards Lee www.germanlook.co.uk
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