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  #1  
Old October 12th 2005, 01:11
brent brent is offline
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Synthetic Oil good or bad?

Im interested to hear of peoples opinions on oil? I had heard that synthetic oil can seep through a magnesium case, but would be ok in type 4 alloy case? Does anyone use synthetic oils over good conventional oils and their experiances please? If so oil what have you found best in extreme aplications and why? Cheers Brent.
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  #2  
Old October 19th 2005, 18:01
javajuice javajuice is offline
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It has been said that the thermal properties of synthetic are different from conventional. That is to say that synth retains heat more than conventional. As far as I know aircooled motorcycles and vws that use synth are race vehicles and are looking for the extra hp not longevity of the engine. I have not personally tested the claims, and have not saved the links, but I am sure you can find them. Persoanlly I use a blend and have not had any issues for a year now in a stock engine with 35k miles. If anything it leaks more than with full conventional and has a little less oil pressure at idle.
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Old October 20th 2005, 04:25
brent brent is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javajuice
It has been said that the thermal properties of synthetic are different from conventional. That is to say that synth retains heat more than conventional. As far as I know aircooled motorcycles and vws that use synth are race vehicles and are looking for the extra hp not longevity of the engine. I have not personally tested the claims, and have not saved the links, but I am sure you can find them. Persoanlly I use a blend and have not had any issues for a year now in a stock engine with 35k miles. If anything it leaks more than with full conventional and has a little less oil pressure at idle.
Thanks for this, i have a friend who has a v-big type 4 engined race car, he uses good quality conventional oil too and has no problems. Just good to hear other peoples opinions so thanks.Brent.
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  #4  
Old October 20th 2005, 08:56
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oasis oasis is offline
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The difficulty with this subject is there is little genuine scientific testing between the two. Most of the testing I've read at different sites deals with temperatures under stress, and there is little mention on the methodology used.

In other words, even is some of these "test cases," it is difficult to know if proper scientific methods were observed.

There is a lot of opinion and anecdotal evidence out "there." To make matters more confusing, the range of conclusions go from synthetic oil is always better to changing your oil and filter is more important than any oil choice to choosing the proper viscosity is more important.

There are three 2002 VW's in our family -- each with a different engine. The owner's manual says synthetic oil for the TDI, and conventional oil for the 2.0 and the 1.8T. The dealer now says they will only use synthetic oil for all engines because of sludging problems. Our long-time shop specializing in VW's says this is bogus for the 2.0 as it hasn't been prone to sludging but not a bad idea for the 1.8T.

There you have it ... three different opinions all dealing with 2002 models.

The most prevailing opinion I have read and/or heard is do not switch to synthetic oil if your engine has X miles on it. I have seen this with the additional caveat of unless the engine had had a top- and bottom-end rebuild. (The X number of miles ranges from 50,000 to 100,000 depending on who is voicing the opinion.)

I have neither seen nor heard anyone who recommends synthetic oil for a Type I engine. Whether this is because Type I's tend to leak more or is made of magnesium or both or something else, I don't know. And as I said, what I have read has not been shown to being scientific anyway.

It would be interesting for Jake Raby to pipe in his opinion here. He may have some scientific information and even if he doesn't, I'm sure his anecdotal evidence would prove informative at the very least.

The only thing I know is synthetic oil is slicker to the feel.
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  #5  
Old October 20th 2005, 16:54
beetle1303 beetle1303 is offline
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the reason that synthetic oil feels slicker is that its more refined and there are many additives into it in order to provide the viscocity properties.
Something that i havent confirmed yet but its been in my mind on the matter, is that a magnesium case (T1) is not of the high tolerance like an aluminum one like the T4. Thus, its molecular stucture is not so thick as in aluminum (plain words its like having more pores not only on the surface, but on the structure as well). This along with the more refined structure (thinner) of the synthetic oils can cause leaks. Im not the expert on the matter, but i have done a bit of reading.
Currently im using Pennzoil 10-40 on my T1 and i can say that i dont have any oil burned up (no blue smoke or anything) and the oil my engine is loosing in my opinion is due to poor machining/worn out case/exploded rubbers on the stock oil cooler/ and blown head gaskets every once in a while (cos im not running breathers on the engine...)
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  #6  
Old October 21st 2005, 02:30
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NO_H2O NO_H2O is offline
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Jake has done testing of a few synth. oils. I asked him about it while I was building my engine up there. He said he recomended 3 oils, all 20w50's. They were Royal Purple, Redline, Valvoline full synth. The Red Line and Valvoline were very close in the testing and Royal Purple was just ahead of those 2. The test monitored head temp vs oil temp in the same engine under the same loads. The oil needs to be able to take on heat and then give it up in the cooler. Some syth. oil don't pick up heat (washing it from heads, etc) and others don't give up heat in the cooler. He runs Royal Purple in the 912E and Valvoline Full Synth. in the Bus. I run Valvoline Full Synth 20w50 in mine.
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73 Bus (2L CIS Powered)
66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle
72 Pinzgauer 710M
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  #7  
Old October 25th 2005, 01:45
brent brent is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oasis
The difficulty with this subject is there is little genuine scientific testing between the two. Most of the testing I've read at different sites deals with temperatures under stress, and there is little mention on the methodology used.

In other words, even is some of these "test cases," it is difficult to know if proper scientific methods were observed.

There is a lot of opinion and anecdotal evidence out "there." To make matters more confusing, the range of conclusions go from synthetic oil is always better to changing your oil and filter is more important than any oil choice to choosing the proper viscosity is more important.

There are three 2002 VW's in our family -- each with a different engine. The owner's manual says synthetic oil for the TDI, and conventional oil for the 2.0 and the 1.8T. The dealer now says they will only use synthetic oil for all engines because of sludging problems. Our long-time shop specializing in VW's says this is bogus for the 2.0 as it hasn't been prone to sludging but not a bad idea for the 1.8T.

There you have it ... three different opinions all dealing with 2002 models.

The most prevailing opinion I have read and/or heard is do not switch to synthetic oil if your engine has X miles on it. I have seen this with the additional caveat of unless the engine had had a top- and bottom-end rebuild. (The X number of miles ranges from 50,000 to 100,000 depending on who is voicing the opinion.)

I have neither seen nor heard anyone who recommends synthetic oil for a Type I engine. Whether this is because Type I's tend to leak more or is made of magnesium or both or something else, I don't know. And as I said, what I have read has not been shown to being scientific anyway.

It would be interesting for Jake Raby to pipe in his opinion here. He may have some scientific information and even if he doesn't, I'm sure his anecdotal evidence would prove informative at the very least.

The only thing I know is synthetic oil is slicker to the feel.

Yes thanks for your input here. I agree. Im working towards good quality conventional oil and replacing it often. The expence is too great to asume synthetic oil is the best thing to use in my type 1. I hope to hear from more VW owners who have actualy put it to the test please?
Brent.
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  #8  
Old October 25th 2005, 01:50
brent brent is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beetle1303
the reason that synthetic oil feels slicker is that its more refined and there are many additives into it in order to provide the viscocity properties.
Something that i havent confirmed yet but its been in my mind on the matter, is that a magnesium case (T1) is not of the high tolerance like an aluminum one like the T4. Thus, its molecular stucture is not so thick as in aluminum (plain words its like having more pores not only on the surface, but on the structure as well). This along with the more refined structure (thinner) of the synthetic oils can cause leaks. Im not the expert on the matter, but i have done a bit of reading.
Currently im using Pennzoil 10-40 on my T1 and i can say that i dont have any oil burned up (no blue smoke or anything) and the oil my engine is loosing in my opinion is due to poor machining/worn out case/exploded rubbers on the stock oil cooler/ and blown head gaskets every once in a while (cos im not running breathers on the engine...)
Right. Can you tell me is your engine a stock item or modified? Just trying to hear about this Pennzoil oil under extreme conditions? Thanks Brent.
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  #9  
Old October 25th 2005, 01:53
brent brent is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NO_H2O
Jake has done testing of a few synth. oils. I asked him about it while I was building my engine up there. He said he recomended 3 oils, all 20w50's. They were Royal Purple, Redline, Valvoline full synth. The Red Line and Valvoline were very close in the testing and Royal Purple was just ahead of those 2. The test monitored head temp vs oil temp in the same engine under the same loads. The oil needs to be able to take on heat and then give it up in the cooler. Some syth. oil don't pick up heat (washing it from heads, etc) and others don't give up heat in the cooler. He runs Royal Purple in the 912E and Valvoline Full Synth. in the Bus. I run Valvoline Full Synth 20w50 in mine.
Hi there, this Valvoline full synthetic oil you use is it in a type 1 or? Magnesium or Aloy case? Modified engine? Thanks Brent.
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  #10  
Old October 25th 2005, 07:44
beetle1303 beetle1303 is offline
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Hi, my engine is a mild 1776cc T1.
Stock 1600 dual port case
Stock (69mm)crank-rods balanced for 10k rpm
Engle FK110 (284 degrees if correct)
Mahle Pistons/Cyls (90.5mm)
044 heads
Autocraft style Bugpack bolt on rocker shafts
40mm dual Webers
NO taping/drilling>>no full flow
NO Breathers
Stock element oil filter
Stock doghouse oil cooler
Petronix Ignitor +Coil
electric fuel pump+ 3 fuel filters
Custom exhaust made from kadron 4-1 header, a Group N muffler and some bends.

Gearbox is the original 1303 1300cc one. I ve toped 160 km/h @6.2k rpm
Usually i drive the car hard on the streets, drifting in roundabouts and trying to beat the ricers when possible
I change the oil 2-3 times per year. Consider that the car is driven only when im back home, like 5 months/year
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  #11  
Old October 25th 2005, 08:09
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NO_H2O NO_H2O is offline
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Mine is a type 1 2275, 94 bore x 82 stroke, full flowed, 30mm pump, 1.5 quart deep sump, external filter and cooler, AS41 case, CB SE heads, 9.7 to 1 comp. ratio, external breather box, 45 Dellorto DRLA's, Web Cam 122/125, Mallory Unilite, DTM type 1 shroud.
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73 Bus (2L CIS Powered)
66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle
72 Pinzgauer 710M
Volksport Kafer Gruppe

Last edited by NO_H2O; October 25th 2005 at 08:14.
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  #12  
Old October 27th 2005, 01:54
brent brent is offline
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Posts: 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by beetle1303
Hi, my engine is a mild 1776cc T1.
Stock 1600 dual port case
Stock (69mm)crank-rods balanced for 10k rpm
Engle FK110 (284 degrees if correct)
Mahle Pistons/Cyls (90.5mm)
044 heads
Autocraft style Bugpack bolt on rocker shafts
40mm dual Webers
NO taping/drilling>>no full flow
NO Breathers
Stock element oil filter
Stock doghouse oil cooler
Petronix Ignitor +Coil
electric fuel pump+ 3 fuel filters
Custom exhaust made from kadron 4-1 header, a Group N muffler and some bends.

Gearbox is the original 1303 1300cc one. I ve toped 160 km/h @6.2k rpm
Usually i drive the car hard on the streets, drifting in roundabouts and trying to beat the ricers when possible
I change the oil 2-3 times per year. Consider that the car is driven only when im back home, like 5 months/year
Doesnt it give you great satisfaction to kick the pants off this Jap blown stuff in an air cooled 1936 designed antique! Brent
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  #13  
Old October 27th 2005, 01:56
brent brent is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NO_H2O
Mine is a type 1 2275, 94 bore x 82 stroke, full flowed, 30mm pump, 1.5 quart deep sump, external filter and cooler, AS41 case, CB SE heads, 9.7 to 1 comp. ratio, external breather box, 45 Dellorto DRLA's, Web Cam 122/125, Mallory Unilite, DTM type 1 shroud.
Thanks for this info, sounds like it would scream!
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  #14  
Old October 27th 2005, 07:17
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NO_H2O NO_H2O is offline
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It does ok
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66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle
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