#1
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Going junk diving
I have a 70 non super beetle.
The area I live in has enough junkyards to keep me picking and pulling until rapture. What kinda goodies should I look for? |
#2
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Karman Ghia front beam, for the disc brake setup.
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#3
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type 3 rear drums, i think would work on your beetle
got any rust on your bug? or if you wanted to shave your door handles, snag a filler piece from a door |
#4
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Nah there is really not a lot of rust.
The plan that I have is first I am going to work out the bugs (no pun intended) in my car, and then after that install a wasserboxer. After that, I would like to SERIOUSLY work on the suspension. Eventually, turbo, restoration, really nice interior, cage and call it a poor mans porsche. I was debating getting a disk brake kit all together. Why the ghia front beam? |
#5
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ghia's are disc cheap effective way to convert
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#6
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Depending on how far you want to go with mods, if they have any 944/951's there, grab brakes, m/c, trailing arms, sway bars, etc.
__________________
zen '73 2316 TIV GL Standard Bug (quasi) Company Branding, Graphic Design, and Web Services at DigiVinci Design |
#7
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Alright.
Does it matter if its a 944 turbo? Does a regular beetle handle well enough to autocross, I am not shooting for wins just for fun |
#8
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Quote:
Clive |
#9
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Depends how far you are willing to go with mods. Ghia is the easiest conversion and more than good enough for street driving. They will start brake fade fairly easy in autocrossing though. 944 brakes are bigger, but require much more modification. 944T are just even bigger and require larger rims to fit them under.
So, as previous stated, you might want to describe your driving goals and we can help guide you to the best parts to look for.
__________________
zen '73 2316 TIV GL Standard Bug (quasi) Company Branding, Graphic Design, and Web Services at DigiVinci Design |
#10
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Autocross.
I think that the 944 brakes will work, I dont need monsters. How much of a pain in the neck is it to install them? |
#11
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Here's is a good place to start reading on 944 conversions.
http://www.vdubengineering.com/techn...onversions.htm
__________________
1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans 1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels VKG |
#12
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Well...
I can go junk yard diving, and I am saving up for a Scat motor (the 2332cc, it puts down about 140hp or so, which in a regular beetle is enough) I was thinking about that engine, along with shocks, brakes, any stabilization bars that might help, along with new wheels, roll cage and running some really sticky R compound tires. Im sure that is not a complete list, I just would like to be able to autocross for fun occasionally and do decently. |
#13
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Quote:
Don't overtyre the car as your motor will spend too much power getting the tyres to turn and change direction. It might be worth sticking to road tyres initially so that you can experience the subtlties of the handling. In any case with a ceiling of <150bhp You won't need anything bigger than 180mm section width for best times. Lastly and most importantly - LOSE WEIGHT! This will have the most effect on lap times. This is generally a free exercise as long as you don't go substituting titanium this and that. A friend of mine became obsessive about weight in his road rally car to the point where he took all the bolts out of the vehicle and cut them to the precise correct length. The bucket of bolt ends weighed in at around 10kgs! With a standard engine he used to embarrass those with high buck budgets,glitz and glamour parts, so it did work. Clive |
#14
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Yeah- just my only worry is that my SCCA class is really not friendly to beetles.
I can't lose anymore weight then the stock weight. |
#15
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Now that's commitment...the obsessive kind.
__________________
zen '73 2316 TIV GL Standard Bug (quasi) Company Branding, Graphic Design, and Web Services at DigiVinci Design |
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