Mythbuster: continuing project thread of my 1303 '75

[Wally]

Me too, Every Mistake Passes Inspection and all that, but.. there is no alternative for this part, so I kinda have to try it.
And it doesn't look that bad compared to a Varga unit that worked for me in the past as well.
It is heavy tho compared to the alu 944 unit.

And hey, there are only my brakes...what can possibly go wrong? LOL

[Xellex]

that's something I was curious about, too. I've read somewhere in the past (probably on shoptalkforums) about your mercedes oil cooler, and it's obvious it's working good at speed, but is it enough at longer idle times? Actually the question is not aimed specifically at your setup, but all the other radiators w/o electrical fans on them. (and engines that don't have the stock oil cooler on too at the same time, just like yours).

[Wally]

yes, longer idle running is fine because of the porsche fan, original heads. Even with the cast iron cylinders this worked fine, but very long idle time might give elevated oil temps (100-110C) in summer. This is no problem though as head temps are very low at idle as you have no load.

[Steve C]

Hi

Sorry to jump in on your topic Wally.

Om my daily driver/sons 1303, running a mild 1904 Ive fitted a cooler in the nose like Wally has done, Im not running an internal cooler and the car will easily cope with bumper to bumper city traffic without any dramas. I do have a fan on it but it rarely comes on.

Steve

[70Turbobug]

I can also really recommend Mercedes oil coolers.If any of you have the chance of getting one i.e. off of a diesel Mercedes like the older 200D,220D,240D,300D or 300TD buy it.Imho they are one of the best coolers ever built.

[oasis]

Great info. Glad I asked.

[owdlvr]

Regarding the 944 MC: I did a lot of hard thinking why the rears gave so little brake force, even with the 23/19 cups.
My conclusion at the moment is that maybe, just maybe, with the brembo alu calipers, the travel is less than on a floating-caliper with a 53mm cup as the older 944's had. That would mean that the fronts already have full contact while the rears have not fully engaged because the rear 19mm cup just isn't pushed any further in the MC...
Its also means that you just can't use the MC cup sizes to 'adjust' your bias! The MC cup sizes are there only to level out the travel of the cups in the MC, so its equels both front and rear to give the same travel/force.
Hope this explaining of mine makes any sense.

Wally,

Do you have a proportioning valve installed? I've got one on my rally car, for solving different issues, but it strikes me that it would be appropriate for solving your brake issues. Mind you, you're also at a stage where a full dual-master/balancing bar would be appropriate as well!



I put a lever-style prop-valve in the rally car, though you would probably find a rotating knob style (Wilwood) would suit you fine. I suspect you'll balance out the brakes the way you want them and then leave it, as opposed to the rally car which gets changed as the road conditions change. I've done the rotating knob style mounted outside of the passenger compartment in other vehicles, as they aren't adjusted 'once set'. In your case I would think you'd need to install it on your front lines, as opposed to the rear which is typically the case.

-Dave

[Wally]

Hi Dave,

I have exactly that one in your pic
But, its indeed connected to the rear and because the rear still doesn't brake enough, not much use of it. It just look slike it doesnt work in my car at the moment and I think I know wh now (see above).. I don't like installing these on the front as we already run without powerbrakes and it would just be a bandaid imo.

A dual master balancing bar would mean installing a complete pedal assembly and I have never seen one installed in a bug that I like.

It is sooo simple really: I just need to find a set-up that overbrakes the rear a little so I can adjust with the 7-step Tilton... How hard can it be right?...

[Wally]

So today I have engaged into removing some rubber from the rear banana-arms and spring plates so it can be replaced with monoballs, poly-bronze bushings and the occasional black graphite-urethane:

[Humble]

ugh, I remember doing that job and it was no fun. I cut off as much rubber as I could from the spring plates then used a wire wheel for the rest. It took a whil but got the job done.

[dub_crazee]

thats absolutely hilarious - i did exactly the same today as im getting my stuff blasted and powder coated lol! new bearings and bushes throughout

ive been searching for the large 'doghnut' bushes for the spring plates but cant seem to find them - are the only replacements avaiable the poly bronze ones from the likes of elephant racing ?(

[Wally]

Originally Posted by dub_crazee

ive been searching for the large 'doghnut' bushes for the spring plates but cant seem to find them - are the only replacements avaiable the poly bronze ones from the likes of elephant racing ?(

You can get pure urethane for most of it, but I read up on rubber, urethane, delrin, monoball and polybronze in the 944 world. Very interesting and hence my choices for replacements. Only inner busings from 944 don't fit the IRS beam, but other than that, most 944 stuff applies. Noise, quality, costs, pick your poison

[ricola]

I got some from pelican parts for my speedster. I think Wally did it the right way for internal bushes, but like humble the wire wheel is MUCH faster for the outer ones...

[dub_crazee]

pelican parts was the first place i checked - maybe i was being blind! il check again.

i burnt the bushes off but i still need to get the remaining bits off - good idea with the wire wheel

[ricola]

These ones?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...78%20-%2095%29