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#1
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I haven't been around for a bit ... I must say I like the brown and orange. I also must say I like the GSR in the background of a few pics even more.
Okay, back to the hijack.
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(2004-2008): 1971 1302 w/2056 Searching for a new project ... |
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#2
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Lee any updates for us?
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VW 1303s 1975 (German Look) VW 1300 1964 (Rally Car) LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90 V8 BMW E30 318i CONVERTIBLE 1992 Italian Toys - GERMAN WAR MACHINES ![]() WRC is for boys - GROUP B WAS FOR MEN |
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#3
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None yet we are busy moving shops, just got to finish the new drop arms and the front end can go on sooooooooooon
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#4
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Great news, you are moving premises?
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VW 1303s 1975 (German Look) VW 1300 1964 (Rally Car) LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90 V8 BMW E30 318i CONVERTIBLE 1992 Italian Toys - GERMAN WAR MACHINES ![]() WRC is for boys - GROUP B WAS FOR MEN |
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#5
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New cro-mo drop arms nearly there just got to do some reinforcing around the anti roll bush and we are good to go prototype....... then they will be for sale if any body is looking for super strong super light weight rose joint late 03 stlye drop arms.....
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#6
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Nice work on the arms. If only I had an 03. Love the white car.
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Sorry mate, I could not find the right words atm.
I think I meant 'ball-joint-extenders'. As our arms are horizontal to begin with after a more serious lowering, the camber change when taking a sharp turn can become negative. You want the wheel to gain more negative camber on turning (wheel moving upward). Like the original suspension geometry was laid out, as much as I hate to say. Does that make any sense at all? |
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#9
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Hmmm, very interesting arms. I had started modelling up a set of early tubular arms, on the off-chance I start bending them.
-Dave
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project '58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?! '73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project '68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project '75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom '93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap |
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#10
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I'm interested in those tubular lower control arms. Do you think they would hold up to high grip, high speed track abuse? Maybe add a triangular gusset over the swaybar bushing area?
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#11
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Read the post dude .......please.
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#12
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sorry, missed that :P I blame a crazy on-call schedule and no sleep for 3 days.
Also, +1 for wally's idea on raising the ball joint area. You could angle and slightly extend the tubing on the outside of the bushing area with minimal work. |
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#13
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Hang on guys, you've got it upside down.
The key measure is the angle between the top strut mount, the balljoint pivot and the lower arm inner mount. This angle needs to remain less than 90 degrees. If you modify the lower arm, you are just changing the shape of the arm and the balljoint pivot remains in the same place verses the other two key suspension points. The modification required is to space the balljoint down, away from the hub. So those lovely arms are just fine as the are. You either need a different balljoint with a much longer stub so that a spacer can be put on first or a machined extension that mounts on the end of the balljoint stub. Substituting a ballpoint with a threaded stub might make it easier to make an extension piece. If you look again at the right hand diagram above, you should see what I mean. Cheers! Last edited by Bruce.; October 20th 2011 at 15:55. Reason: Removing errors about threads on the ballpoint .... Doh |
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#14
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hwo much for the arms?
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#15
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Great idea! Like the rose joint in particular!
I will definitely need a spacer between the spindle and reaction arm though, as mentioned earlier. Wouldn't it be an idea to incorporate something like that in the arm at the same time? I mean, we all have lowered our cars and suspension geometry suffers as a result. Possible/good idea or not? |
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