180hp 1.8t in Bug

[lister]

Panelfantastic, have you not thought about using a T25 transfer box

have a nose here

http://www.bug-box.de/index.php?opti...=115&Itemid=98

use a vauxhall (GM) Astra rack

Have a nose here

http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=198821

[Panelfantastic]

Good info! Thanks!


Jeff-

[volkdent]

More details. It would seem that after years of trying to get it, I have the correct wiring harness heading my way in the next week. I purchased the O2 sensors today. Amazing, a local "european" parts store wanted $350 for the pair, went to the VW Dealer, $100 for the pair. AMAZING! More than triple for the same parts. The VW Dealer has surprised me a few times with how little their prices are. Also purchased a glass pre-filter for big chunks, and the stock 1.8t fuel filter for after the fuel pump, and some fuel-safe thread sealand for the fittings onto the fuel pump and to the bottom of the gas tank..

On the cooling side of things, I purchased the fittings for my air bleed extension. I drilled a hole on the side of the area behind the spare. A stop****(that's what I call it, but it may be called something else) is bolted into that hole. A hose leads to the high point of the front cooling setup. After the system is filled, any trapped air should find its way to this high point, then I can just reach in end undo the stop**** and let the trapped air out. That's my theory at least! Pics to come.

Jason

[bean_8044]

better late than never:

http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/lsupur.htm

VolksWagen dealers in North America sell a Bosch LSU4 wide band sensor for a ~$30. However this sensor is only inexpensive when purchased from North American sources. The Bosch part number is 0 258 007 057 or 0 258 007 058 (these are the same sensor, but they have leads of different length), and it can be purchased as a VW part number 021-906-262-B.

[Panelfantastic]

I've been watching one of those street tuner shows that featured a new Jetta. They had a ECU team come in to do a piggyback system. Name of the company was 034EFI .
This is probably not much help if you already have a system on the way... but for future reference.


Jeff-


...and I almost forgot, TPIWWP!

[volkdent]

Jeff, I only do worthless posts, or didn't you figure that out yet? I'll get them on here next week, hold your horses!

Hey Bean, thank you for your post. Unfortuneatly I've read it again and again, but I don't quite understand what's being said. I know you pasted from MegaSquirt. Is it saying that in other countries that those O2 sensors are really expensive then?

And what about MegaSquirt, is that something I might be interested in? What would it do for me?

Sorry, I have been travelling all day and my mind no worky to good, but I just can't quite figure out what's going on.

Jason

[Panelfantastic]

Mega is a stand alone efi controller that you build and program yourself. Really a bare bones, adaptable setup. If I remember right, the basic deal just controls fuel, then you can add a different module for spark, etc. etc.
One of the cheapest ways to go but some say not complex enough to provide all the tuning options.


Jeff-

[volkdent]

So it sounds like it wouldn't be better at controlling all the variables than the stock ECU for the most part then? I think I'll try to get the thing up and running, and then maybe just spend the cash and get a turbo/chip setup from APR or someone like that who's spent a lot of time with it. From what I've read those guys tend to tune for longevity and driveability than just dyno numbers. Am I just being too cautious? Is there something better?

Jason

[Panelfantastic]

I could be waay off about Megasquirt... but the way I understand the product, it is a basic unit that allows you to develop your own fuel mapping from their base program. Ideal for tech savvy guys who want to spend hours mapping every micron of their fuel curve and trying to optimize power and driveability.
I bought a harness and ECU that is already programmed (not Mega) because I'm not really interested in learning fuel curve data logging. I like nuts and bolts, hands on tools, that kind of stuff. I don't have the patience to sit in the passenger seat for hours and ride around trying to develop a fuel map. G*d bless those that do! it's just not for me. I want plug and play.

If you can use the stock brain and harness, hell yeah that is the way to go! Most stock units have sooo much extra garbage that you won't be able to use but still need inputs and the average Joe doesn't know how to sort them out... they end up going with a Mega unit and starting from scratch. Plus, comparatively speaking, Mega is inexpensive (almost half what I paid for a Delphi for my Eco).

[ricola]

Megasquirt is a completely DIY ECU that a couple of guys are developing. They just sell the bespoke circuit board and you solder in all the components and processor and wire it all in yourself. So many people have done theirs now and the support from forums is huge that a lot of people now sell assembled units and develop the software so it is developing itself with some quite advanced finctions (like autotuning with a wideband O2 sensor).

Rich

[Panelfantastic]

Thanks Rich!
I was hoping someone would join in with Mega friendly advice.
I'm am definately scared of that which I do not understand so I'm not a fan of DIY electronics, BUT I wasn't trying to deter anyone else who's not a big scaredy chicken like me!
Like you said, A lot of people use the system and love it!

[bean_8044]

Well, initially i pasted the Mega site to show that those sensors shouldnt be more than $30 from VW. Maybe the site is old and the prices have risen sharply, but when i got mine last year, they were $30. Im glad it spawned a new discussion though. As for hours of tuning....the amount you put in is equal to what you get out. Fuel mapping isnt as hard as they would have you believe. Make some 100% passes and fill in the big stuff, then the rest just falls into place

[volkdent]

Maybe I'm just not adventurous enough, but I figure that the factory probably has a couple of more brain cells into this setup than most people, and I tend to think that factory stuff is conservative so their product will last for awhile. Case in point, if the 180hp 1.8ts block was "strong enough", why did they bother to add a bunch of extra ribbing to the block and add extra oiling and piston squirters of the 225hp motor? It's only 45 more hp. Were they just bored?

Do the guys that say they have 300hp (180hp block) 1.8ts know more than the factory? I don't think so. They are cutting corners and the result is reduced longevity, reduced safety(ever seen a turbo motor fire? not pretty), and reduced drivability(yeah, I'm not really into having 300hp come on tap suddently at about 4000rpm). I just can't imagine that I would be able to tune something that the factory spent thousands of man hours on with data logging equipment that I don't have access to and get results that are superior in any way besides horsepower and torque numbers, which are only SOME of the important numbers you need to make something last for awhile. What about EGT, head temperature, transient oil pressure, knocking, fuel economy, water temp, and a bunch of stuff I've never even thought about, but I'm guess VAG did.

Here's a little something I thought about. If you put in a lightened flywheel or a turbo, your motor will spin up faster. What I suspect lags is the oil pressure/volume. Just slightly, but I think the oil is removed faster than it is replaced for just a few milliseconds before the volume catches up again. So if this keeps up, I think wear would be increased. I think that's why race engines have such big oil pumps, gotta keep that oil pressure and volume up as those motors zip up and down. That's just one of my theories, anyone care to comment? Those little changes that "modifying" creates aren't often looked at in my opinion, but when a manufacturer hots something up, they HAVE TO.

All that said, 300hp sounds fun, doesn't it? I'm only human you know!

Jason

[bean_8044]

I dont think you can accuratly look at a race car and derive literal street translations. Theres always race on sunday, sell on monday, but not everyone needs 14" rotors. I cant speak for the VW1.8T, but i have had expierence with the toyota JZ engines. With either the 1jz or 2jz, you can slap on a larger turbo, pump some more fuel and never have a second thought. They come stock with the oil squirters and sump, not to mention some pretty stout manufacturing processes.
In refrence to oil starvation, i dont think that youd run out because of the sudden rpm increase since the oil system has some kind of pressure at all times. The oil isnt going to disappear when the RPMs increase unless youre running some crappy oil. Maybe if youre constantly going from 1k to 10k rpms and back down then you might see some extra wear, but for normal driving/occasional racing it doesnt seem to be an issue. Then again, its dependant on what you start with...

[volkdent]

I spent WAY too much time with the wiring harness. It looks like I'm going standalone! I called up 034 Motorsport and they are going to hook me up with a killer system. I like the idea of being able to tune it for the what I want it anyway, and this is a way easier system that uses most of the stock sensors.



I met a guy, Dave S, today. He is a member on GL Forums but hasn't posted yet. Keep your eyes open, it's going to get even crazier around here! Anyway, he had a DBW Mustang and said the throttle response sucked because of it, so I'm kind of glad to be getting rid of the DBW system. I'll be ordering up a cable throttle body tomorrow.

On the cooling front, I installed the bleed area up front. This is at the highest point of the front area of the cooling system. The valve can be opened when the pressure is up a bit in the system, and then any trapped air can be bled off.







Jason