upgrading to disc: is it silly to just use stock Ghia parts?

[joetech]

Hi y'all, I'm new here. What a great site!

I'm starting to think about disc breaks for the front-end, I already have most of the stock Ghia parts to do this, I'm thinking of just going 'stock' for now.

My car is a 1973 Super, and I'm not sure just yet if it's an early or late model (gotta check my vin# and get back to this) but I think this isn't an issue with using the Ghia parts...

Question:
Seems like lots of others have Porsche upgrades or other hi-end disc breaks, is it silly of me to just do the Ghia upgrade? Is it the same expense, does it require the same sort of install (and/or fabrication)?

Cheers,

Joe.
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1973 Super Beetle convertible
San Francisco, CA

[LOAF]

I had looked at the option, at one time..

I may concider it for my vert.. but for the saloon, 1303, I chose the 944 route..why.. because I want to track it..

You have to factor many things, such as how much hp, what kind of driving you will be doing.. if your not going over board, the ghia option with bigger drums in the rear may just be the ticket.. remember that you can also upgrade pads, and put some R-compound tire and get much more grip and thus stopping ability..

Bottom line its what you plan on doing with your car..

As far as 944 somewhat straight fwd.. except for which M/C to use.. Kersher if you have the money seems like another option..

Other will chime it, but again, it depends on what your upto..
Alex

[Supa Ninja]

So Cal Imports has a front disc brake kit for super's, and it's only $150. With those kinds of prices I wouldn't even consider trying to fab up you own ghia style front brakes. I'm looking at going that that route for the mean time, but i'll be the rear disc also. One thing the ghia brakes have over the porsche stuff is that it's light weight. Like previously stated by Loaf, build it to suit your needs. Disc's are far superior to drums in all regards.

[kleinporsche]

I will be going that route too but put discs all round and have the rotors drilled by a machine shop for better cooling. If you have good tires and lighten your car as much as you can, Ghia brakes are A1: I use to have those on my VW/PUMA.

Supa, last time I checked with CIP1(yesterday), the front kit was more like 379.95$US with dropped spindles or 299.95$US for a kit with regular spindles. The thing is when you change to discs you need to change to change the spindles aswell.

[Supa Ninja]

KP you must be talking about beetle disc kits, thats what CIP1 is charging but So Cal Imports is asking only $149, plus bearing and steel braided lines thats about another $75. Still a smoking deal.

[kleinporsche]

I have to agree. It's quite a deal, but then I don't know about shipping with SoCal. Cip1 is quite cheap in terms of shipping. BTW, what's the difference between Ghia and beetle discs? Are Ghia less expensive?

[Eurolook71]

Originally Posted by kleinporsche

I will be going that route too but put discs all round and have the rotors drilled by a machine shop for better cooling. If you have good tires and lighten your car as much as you can, Ghia brakes are A1: I use to have those on my VW/PUMA.

Supa, last time I checked with CIP1(yesterday), the front kit was more like 379.95$US with dropped spindles or 299.95$US for a kit with regular spindles. The thing is when you change to discs you need to change to change the spindles aswell.

I'm sorry, but I have to disagree. Getting a disc and simply drilling holes into doesnt equate to better cooling. If you want a reliable setup for steet use, that wont break the bank, go with Toplines kit, I've seen and felt this kit on a couple bugs, from new to well used, and would highly recommend it. Another option, since you already have discs, calipers, etc...juat get the caliper backets from Topline, get the new billet style ones, beefier than the original. Vdub customs also has some very pretty, super tough looking caliper bracket for $90/pair. You will also need the hoses(whatever ones are "teflon-lined"), seals, and hardware.

Drilling for daily driven steet use is a common misconception. All too often, you will end up going through pads like crazy. Why? Picture your pads as a block of cheese and the drilled rotor as a cheese grater...get the picture. The drilling concept started at the racing level, not for daily commuting. I'm not saying NOT TO, I just would'nt. For true, usable cooling benefits, you need a vented rotor. Check out vdubcustoms.com for options that use a vented rotor, such as the golf, mazda, or of course the porsche kits. Of course going this route, the cost starts going up, be it custom hub, caliper brackets, parts, etc....

IMO, I feel that the kit from Topline would be good even for a weekend autocross car, much less a dd. Also, if you feel you need to upgrade the rear end, you could replace all related parts and hardware, getting the best possible quality available. For really good results, replace your drums with new german units, and have a look at the "super stopper" rear break shoes from aircooled.net. I've heard good things about them, and will increase stopping power. Probably some sort of ceramic material. If you want discs at all four corners, check out the roto-hubs from CB Performance.

Overall, you would come out spending less money, but have less of a wow effect...it all depends on what your going for...

Plus, with the options described, your still able to get a custom bolt pattern, (ie 4X100 or whatever), so you can get more rims to choose from.

Just some ideas....

[bean_8044]

dont drill non-vented rotors. Just get them heat treated and get a good set of pads