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  #526  
Old February 16th 2017, 04:01
Yogie Yogie is offline
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Congratulations on the new house. Looks like a great workshop for you as well.

Yogie
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  #527  
Old February 17th 2017, 18:51
H2OSB H2OSB is offline
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Love your car Dave. Makes me kinda like Super Beetles
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  #528  
Old February 18th 2017, 03:16
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Thanks! I have to be honest, even after four years it still brings a massive smile to my face every time I see it.

------

Well, this evening has been less than successful.

Turns out the new adapter plate I machined is so thin I need to go from M6x20 bolts down to an M6x12 or M6x10. Hit all the fastener places in town, and as expected no one had any in stock. Ordered some, but they could be a full week before they arrive. Sigh.

Onto the engine build! Pulled my new main bearings out of the box, modified them for better oil flow from the case, and THEN realized that I had the wrong ones. Doh. Got sent 1st cut crank, standard case. When what I really needed was Standard Crank, 1st cut case. Oh well, can't blame my buddy...I read the box and thought "that looks odd" but didn't double check them. Same error, both ends of the transaction.

So the engine build is currently on hold until the new bearings arrive. The guys are going to see if they can't get them on a Sunday delivery for me. No worries, we'll move onto the fuel tank and pull that so I can thread on a new outlet and get ready to setup the AN fuel lines. Except, nope.

When I built the car I remember there being quite the challenge to setup the fuel lines to my dual fuel pumps and a gas heater pump, but I had forgotten why it was such a challenge. Seems to me, I was thinking last night, that I could have just threaded in a CB outlet Tee and done it very easy. It wasn't until I pulled the tank that I realized why I hadn't done it the easy way. On a 71-73 super you won't find the M18x1.0 outlet fitting that every standard beetle has. Instead, the fuel outlet is a small nipple welded into the tank, and then there is an M20x1.0 drain plug (which appears to be included for the sole purpose of swapping out the in-tank fuel filter). Hmmm.

I can get an M20 to AN adapter, and there is a hole in which to pass it through. Locally M20 to -10AN won't be a problem. M20 to 8AN probably won't be available, but the guys at my old haunt Vibrant Performance list one in the catalog...so maybe I can get one sent out to me. I *think* I can make it work, but tightening the AN hose onto the bottom of the tank isn't going to be fun.

Well, I guess sorting the fuel system will have to wait a little longer.

At this rate I may have to go back to building furniture for the house tomorrow...

-Dave

*edit* I remember a few years ago there being some surge tank discussion on here, and did a quick search to see what I could find. Might spend sometime thinking about going with a surge-tank setup instead of an adapter for the tank drain...

Joel's setup in 2010:


Manic's setup:
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
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Last edited by owdlvr; February 18th 2017 at 03:23.
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  #529  
Old February 19th 2017, 01:32
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Was up far too late last night looking at various surge tank setups, woke up today and gathered the parts needed to make a prototype from steel. I find that I usually realize a better way to do things shortly after something is built, so I'll do an aluminium one after I know how, or if, I want things to change. On the top I've got one -4AN to use as an inlet from the Facet pump, there is a second -4AN which I'll use as an outlet from the tank back into the stock fuel tank. The third unit on top is a -6AN for the return line from the engine. I actually put two -8AN outlets on the bottom, at almost 90 to each other, as I wasn't sure which way I'll mount the tank and where I would need the outlet.


On the factory fuel tank, I'm planning on using the original factory outlet strictly for the gas heater. Since I have the drain plug out of the tank it makes sense to clean things up and get rid of the T-Fitting I've been using. I grabbed an M20x1.5 oil pan drain plug, drilled it out and welded on a -4AN fitting. Need the paint to dry before I can test it in the car and ensure it will actually work, but might as well make the bits in hopes that it works out!




-Dave
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
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  #530  
Old February 23rd 2017, 03:18
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Ugh. These three lines were brutal to install. So, first up is my new AN-4 fuel tank outlet. Turns out the hole in the body underneath the drain plug isn't actually right below the drain plug. Oops. These are the sort of things I should be checking before I make modifications. Fortunately it *just* fit. The other two lines (Feed and Return) are just short, less than 10" long, with horrible locations for actually installing and tightening. Oh please let there be no leaks...


But it does make the trunk area work out. The two -4AN lines will get 45-deg fittings put on them to make the lines cleaner, but they can always be field swapped later...the beauty of AN lines and fittings. Surge tank leads to the high pressure pump via a screen filter. For some reason I mis-measured the pump initially and planned on -8AN lines for the feed, only to realize the pump needs -10. So there is a touch of adapting going on to the high-pressure pump, but such is life. The -6AN line is the return line. One -4AN line is the feed line from the tank via a Facet pump, the other one is the return to the factory tank. All of this fits underneath the spare tire, as I have mine mounted on an angle with the top of the tire resting on the strut bar. Although, now that I think about it, it's been a few days since I actually double checked it clears!


Feed line comes in just on top of the factory foot plate, which means it's behind my aluminum rally foot plate. It travels down the tunnel to the seat, swaps sides to the heater channel and travels up the back of the car to the firewall. Here it meets a Russell Performance 8" long fuel filter, which is as close to the engine as I can realistically get the filtration.




I still need to decide where to punch the feed line through the firewall to make the line feeding the 1/2 fuel rail conveniently placed while allowing for some movement and vibration. The engine bay side of my firewall is pretty busy, so working out the best place to pass the line through isn't going to be easy!
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'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
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  #531  
Old February 23rd 2017, 14:11
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This was an fun surprise to wake up to. Issue 51 cover car! Makes me wish I had:
a) washed the car that weekend
b) installed the rally computer instead of leaving it at home
c) borrowed my buddy's seats which are in much better shape!

I had no idea it was going to be shot for the magazine, about 15min before we left to shoot the car I was emptying a weekend's worth of "running a car show" crap, and fast food wrappers. Oops.

LetsPlayVWsCover
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap

Last edited by owdlvr; February 23rd 2017 at 14:18.
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  #532  
Old February 23rd 2017, 23:43
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Congrats...
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  #533  
Old February 27th 2017, 01:15
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Got back to the car today, and was able to solve a number of items towards the hydraulic clutch conversion. First off, I managed to finally pickup some bolts that will work to mount the adapter plate, so in goes the slave cylinder for testing. As suspected, sliding the motor in without the spacer means the pressure plate hits the bearing before the engine meets the transmission, so I popped the spacer for testing:


Play-Dough makes the perfect tool for testing gap spaces. Once the motor is on and in place, simply remove it and carefully slice the playdough to measure the clearances. In this case, it's hard to see in the photo, but I ended up with .100" clearance, the minimum needed for the Tilton bearing. Sweet! So the hydraulic slave is now in (for hopefully the last time), and I pulled out all the cable operated clutch bits.









Started working on getting the pedals setup for hydraulics, which involved making an adjustable clutch stop, cutting up the tunnel (more than I have already) to allow for more clearance to install the SACO slave, and drilling holes for various clutch lines. Once again I'm waiting for Russell Fittings, hopefully I can train Lordco in my new town to start stocking the sizes I use :P

-Dave
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'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
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  #534  
Old February 27th 2017, 15:09
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Wally Wally is offline
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Nice job!
You will LOVE the annular bearing mod, I'll guarentee (sp?) it!
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  #535  
Old March 6th 2017, 03:49
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With the clutch sorted almost sorted, and waiting again on more Russell fittings, it was time to turn my attention to getting the engine ready to drop back into the car. The intake manifolds are back from K-roc heads, having been ported and matched to my heads, so the throttle bodies could be mounted up, and the fuel lines and electrical staged on the car. The rear line, rail-to-rail seemed like the easiest place to start.


Of course, it wasn't until I was finished with setting up the fuel rails, fittings and the first line that I realized I have a problem. The fittings coming off the 1/2 carb would clear a normal firewall, and my firewall is set 3" back so it should have even more clearance...except, I have one of my breathers right near where the fitting will end up. I did some quick measurements, and realized that I was going to have a conflict. So, take it all apart and try again.


The second option is much better, and as with a lot of things I do it seems to take one or two tries before I come upon the solution that I'm really happy with. It's hard to see in the second photo, but the 1/2 side is quite a bit closer to the throttle bodies. It will be clear in some of the photos further down.


For the feed and return lines, things are going to be pretty tight. I wanted them to be clean, not running across the engine, or wrapping around the throttle bodies. Russells 180 tight radius fittings will just work, but I'm not sure how I'll get the line in and secure. There is a good chance I may have to remove the air-filter bases every time I need to pull the throttle bodies out of the car. Annoying, but better than running the lines around the bodies.


Mounting the throttle bodies also highlighted another problem I didn't anticipate. In order to fit the fuel rails and injectors inside a beetle engine bay, CB Performance essentially flips the intakes L/R. With their preferred bar-linkage for the throttle, this isn't a big issue. With my preference for centre-mount pushrod linkage (Vintage Speed), it causes a problem. See, I need to PUSH the throttle bodies open, and with the throttle bodies flipped they want to be pulled open. No worries, you say, simply flip the ball-pivots to the top? Well, I thought it was as simple as that too. A quick bend to the 1/2 bar to clear the alternator, and I was set...or was I? Turns out the first problem is the 1/2 carb won't open all the way...the bend means on the second half of the throttle travel, the ratio changes and 1/2 opens slower than 3/4. It took quite a bit of playing with bends to get the left and right sorted to be equal. I'm probably going to need to buy a new set of bars so I can bend them once and take the waves out :P


Next, was sorting out this mess...


I thought long and hard about how I was going to get the harness from the engine bay into the interior of the car. I was pretty much decided on doing a firewall bulkhead connector, which is basically a weather-sealed multi-pin connector you plug the harness into after installing the engine. On a modern car, when done right, you can pull the motor without disconnecting each electrical connector. After putting some thought into it though, I realized that if I have to pull the Throttle bodies (to clear the body), I'm disconnecting 80% of the connections anyhow...so it's probably better to save the $130 it would cost me to put that trick into the car. Running the wires up over the fender (with the factory harness), isn't an option. I have too many wires in there already, and having removed the passenger side foam on one car...I really didn't want to do it on this one! So, off to the bin of old Audi Harnesses from a previous car life of mine. I found a grommet that looked like it would work, and relieved it from the harness. The CB harness was going to be too long if I'm just dropping it through the firewall, so I cut it and prepped the engine side.


I then prepared my workstation for sitting in the engine bay to join the two halves, now shortened, back together.


And the harness finished. The parcel shelf area of my car is getting a little bit busy these days!


-Dave
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
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'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
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  #536  
Old March 6th 2017, 15:53
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Nice job!
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  #537  
Old March 9th 2017, 02:06
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Well, Sh**.

Got some good practice putting the motor in and out over the last couple of days. Worked out the hydraulic clutch spacing, fuel lines, wiring, etc. Went to go spin the motor...flywheel is hitting the transmission bolts. Bloody hell! Pulled the motor, ground down the bolts, and suddenly it dawned on me; I never considered the starter.

Sh**.

To save you from scrolling back in the thread, the early 914 transmission in a beetle means the starter only engages the flywheel by about half the tooth depth. I've lathed down the mounting surface of my starter as far as we possibly can, and I get 3/4 tooth depth engagement. About 9mm of tooth engagement, based on the polishing on the starter teeth. I've got a spacer between the motor and transmission, to give the appropriate space for the hydraulic clutch system, and that spacer is basically 10mm thick. My starter is going to be just spinning in clean air, touching nothing. F***.

Ahhhh...I guess I need to find someone who knows a whole lot more about rebuilding starters than I do, to find out if a longer axle or tooth is possible on my starter, or if one of the aftermarket "high-torque" starters can be modified to fit and work.

-Dave
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap

Last edited by owdlvr; March 10th 2017 at 03:13.
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  #538  
Old March 9th 2017, 03:14
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A quick chat with Joel tonight after some googling, and I think I have my solution. The 83-86 Vanagon starter has a 10mm deeper pinion depth, so if I buy one of those and lathe it down like my beetle starter...I should be good to go. Will pull the beetle starter tomorrow, and put the motor back in...again.

:P

-Dave
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'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
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'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
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  #539  
Old March 10th 2017, 03:10
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Hopefully the third time is the charm. I can't shake this nagging feeling that its going to need to come up for something. lol, when your biggest stress in life is your project car, you're probably doing okay...Right? hahaha.



I've got a Vanagon starter coming tomorrow, and I've measured the Beetle Autostick starter I have in the car currently. Will be able to connect power to the solenoid quickly and determine if the Vanagon starter will work, or if I need to find another solution. So many things left to button up on the car before I can get it going. With travel and a course I'm taking it's not going to be this weekend, but the next. I want to go play!!!

-Dave
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'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
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  #540  
Old March 11th 2017, 09:34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owdlvr View Post
lol, when your biggest stress in life is your project car, you're probably doing okay...Right? hahaha.
-Dave
Look out, though...
Once the nest is built, it's very common for the female to come into reproductivity!


I fought some of the same issues with throttle linkage rods.
Bends can work themselves out with use unfortunately..

Might just bite the bullet and get a sync-link?
CBs hex-bar comes with it's own set of issues..

Did you look at the Web-link that CB sells, to flip a carb 180' and use the other side?

Also wondering if you are 100% sure you want to run the fuel lines through the interior of the car?
I heard some sanctioning bodies frown upon this..

Love your work here.
Just beautiful..
I'll go crawl back under my bridge now.
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