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  #136  
Old December 22nd 2011, 04:07
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Alrighty...shop only got some of the bits in I needed, so didn't end up going as far as I hoped tonight.

Relay mounts are in, bolted up using three RivNuts.


Then started organizing the wiring that will go into it. These wires are passing through from the back, and will be marked so that I know where to trim the length. Only three wires on this end actually need to be identified as to their purpose. The rest just go in one big bundle to the same spot so it doesn't really matter at this point. I ran wires for the factory headlights, and then realized I'm out of 12 gauge for the rally lights. Ah well, just add that to the list for tomorrow!



With everything I could do there complete, it was time to move on. I don't want to move onto the rest of the harness until I have the front dialed, as this helps me keep the ever-changing diagram straight in my head. There is a hardcover notebook that is getting all my diagrams and thoughts, but working on harnesses for me requires a flow, and so the front needs to be finished first.

For the moment I've moved onto figuring out what I'm going to do with the dashboard. My original plan was a Carbon Joe dash, and while I had one ordered I haven't heard back regarding it. So I'm working on the back-up plan. My Stewart-Warner gauges seem to be perpetually "coming soon", so I'm really at a loss for what to do. The factory Salzburg cars were just a stock dash with a tach bolted to the top and some TAG-Heuer rally clocks on the glove box door. Audi factory rally cars from the early 80's seem to have a dash made up of whatever was lying around the workshop. Mostly VDO gauges, but not always, and most certainly not all matching each other. I checked the gauges I have...and mismatched pretty much sums it up...





I trimmed the factory speedo hole to fit the Porsche Tach, and if I'm going to run a stock dash pad that's definitely my first choice. Now I just need to decide if I'm going to pair it with the Stewart Warner, go with a VDO set or Autometer Sport-Comp...then, of course, I need to figure out where to put them! At the very least I'll be running a Rally Computer, Tach, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Fuel level. I may add a speedometer, volt meter, and air/fuel gauge. Just gotta figure out what fits, and is readable while I'm driving.



-Dave
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  #137  
Old December 22nd 2011, 05:39
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Originally Posted by owdlvr View Post
I seem to think the fresh-air box is thicker due to the motor, and thus standard dash covers won't fit? Will have to borrow the one out of my '69 once I'm at that stage to see.

-Dave
Hi

Sorry about the misinformation, our 1302s never had fresh air fans, we didn't get the fresh air fans fitted until much later in standard bugs.

I used to run 63 Beetle rally car, when I started doing shift work I sold it along with many VW factory rally car parts. I even the left the Halda twin master in it.

Steve
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  #138  
Old December 22nd 2011, 14:13
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Hi

Sorry about the misinformation, our 1302s never had fresh air fans, we didn't get the fresh air fans fitted until much later in standard bugs.

I used to run 63 Beetle rally car, when I started doing shift work I sold it along with many VW factory rally car parts. I even the left the Halda twin master in it.

Steve
Ahhh, that explains it. I was considering ditching the fresh air fan since that little square in the dash would make a great oil-light spot...but then I found a box/fan that still works.

Bet you're kicking yourself over the halda now eh?! I know I would be!

-Dave
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  #139  
Old December 23rd 2011, 03:56
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More progress...but not as much as I hoped (wiring always seem to be that way). The harness is complete to the regulator & battery, 3/4 complete to the engine bay and just needs to be covered in Techflex. So far I've added 540ft of wire and more circuits then I care to think about at the moment. Should have the correct size Techflex tomorrow, and could hopefully finish this up before Christmas morning. Mind you...each time I think I'm getting close I think of a few more things I need to do :P

Here are some detail shots of how the Techflex looks when I'm done with it:



-Dave
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  #140  
Old December 23rd 2011, 15:52
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Dave,

I like your approach on the wiring..

Taking some notes..

Keep up the good work.. Keeps me movitated even if for now I can only drive a desk...

Alex
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  #141  
Old December 24th 2011, 03:29
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Thanks! Finally getting near the end of the front half of the harness....

Had to do an emergency run to the city for more Techflex, made it 10min before a supplier closed for the holidays. Eeek, almost got stopped for a week! In case anyone needed further proof that I'm insane...





I also couldn't get heat shrink into a couple of spots. So I'll be using Silicone Fusion tape tomorrow. The harness is ready to go into the car, the last bits to be TechFlexed are the headlight wires, but I'll need to pop the fenders on in order to figure out the length. So with that I moved on to other items. Heat reflective fiberglass tape on the fender (under the gas heater)...



And then this new plate.



A few rubber mounts...



...and we've got a new mount for my fuel pumps and the secondary fuse box.



That's basically as far as I got. The fuse box I ordered in was basically crap, and I refuse to use it. I did a quick trip around the automotive suppliers in town, as well as a stereo shop, and didn't find anything that I thought would be useable. The Audi's have a fuse strip that separates out of the standard fusebox, which I thought might be useable...but then I started looking at the factory VW fusebox again. Hmmmm...flip that sucker upside down, and it could be perfect. The factory cover should pop on.



I need to sleep on it. There are lots of reasons the ceramic-style fuses suck, but I tend to keep the terminals clean so it shouldn't matter. Anytime I've run into a "should I / or shouldn't I" problem, I try to look at it like the factory engineers would have. This is a fairly elegant solution using what is available on hand...exactly as the factory would have (for proof: see transmission mounts).

Still need to take a good nights sleep I'll know whether I like it or not. And I suppose in the long run it's fully upgradeable to an ATO-style box down the road.

-Dave
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  #142  
Old December 24th 2011, 05:13
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Nice job on the wiring, small tip in case you haven't come across it: you can get heatshrink with hotmelt glue inside which is great for protecting joints outside of the cabin to stop corrosion. I've used it extensively on my car, nothing worse than intermittent connectivity due to corrosion in the future!
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  #143  
Old December 26th 2011, 03:35
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Nice job on the wiring, small tip in case you haven't come across it: you can get heatshrink with hotmelt glue inside which is great for protecting joints outside of the cabin to stop corrosion. I've used it extensively on my car, nothing worse than intermittent connectivity due to corrosion in the future!
Yup. Some of the connections photographed actually use that stuff, some don't. Depends on the size I had on hand. Most of my smaller stuff is with the glue.

-Dave
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  #144  
Old December 26th 2011, 20:51
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Hi

Are you going to mount the fuel pump in that location? The facet pumps need to be mounted at a certain angle.

Steve
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  #145  
Old December 26th 2011, 21:10
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Hi

Are you going to mount the fuel pump in that location? The facet pumps need to be mounted at a certain angle.

Steve
Oh? Please tell.

Nothing in the documentation I got with the pump, nor on Facet's website?

FWIW, I'll be using AN fittings so as to reduce the chances of fluid leakds combined with fuse box :P

-Dave
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  #146  
Old December 26th 2011, 22:54
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Hi

It was long time ago that I mounted the Facet pump in my old bug.

It should be mounted at 45 degree angle with the outlet higher than the inlet and close to the fuel tank, which you have done.

I found these instruction online that confirm it http://www.aca-auto.com.au/pdfs/Facet-cat.pdf

Steve
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  #147  
Old December 27th 2011, 01:40
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Thanks for the instructions. Based on the information within it sounds like the only reason to mount the outlet higher then the inlet is to ensure there is no possibility of vapour lock inside the pump...but they also say the pump can be mounted in any orientation. Might try them flat (since the fuel lines will work out so well with them flat)...and modify as required. On the plus side, if one pump heats up and vapour-locks, I just have to flip a switch to change to the other pump!

Haven't done much work on the car in the last couple of days. Something about a big holiday and family dinners and such I did get the front half of the wiring harness back in, and insulated against heat near the gas heater. Kinda like the look of it installed, but this part of the project is taking waaaaaaay too long. I will need to mount a fender to do some measuring before I can finish up the techflex on the front.



...relay and fuse panel are in. I still need to figure out how I'm going to label the fuses so I remember what controls each circuit...and not really sure what I was doing when I put the labels up. Somehow I missed the first and last relay labels! Will have to cut another couple off the vinyl machine tomorrow.



The fuel pump wires will need to be completed after I get a couple of the Rabbit fuel pump relays, and a second pump. For now I'll move onto the dash portion of the harness and slowly work my way back. Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

-Dave
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  #148  
Old December 27th 2011, 19:13
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May I suggest 2 more of those rubber mounts to mount the fuel pump too? You'll hardly hear it in that case, unless u want to hear it to know its on!

Jason
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  #149  
Old January 2nd 2012, 03:36
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gonna start off without a second set, only because I'm trying to keep the pump as low as possible. Thanks for the suggestion though. Without any sound insulation, I suspect this car is going to be plenty loud enough to mask any fuel pump noise!

Well, it's been a long week of work...but none of it on the Beetle. At work we have a Hagglunds BV-206 (google it) which has been taking up a lot of my time. Ford engine, Mercedes transmission, BMW distributor, Audi plug wires....it's a virtual United Nations of construction. Anyways...I'm off topic, and finally got back to the Bug today.



...I managed to snake the wiring harness through the factory holes in the heater channels. It wasn't easy, but I got it through. My seat rail is jammed up against the heater channel, which means running even a factory harness down beside it would be almost impossible. I might cut the seat rail, lay the wires and re weld it back in...or I might route the wires under the seat and simply cut some access for it. Haven't decided yet.



From there I moved onto the fuel tank. In order to make sure all the dash and trunk bits are going to fit, I need to get the fuel tank into the car...which means refinishing it. In order to refinish it, the first step was to sort out the fuel sender. The aftermarket senders are a wee bit different then the Super Beetle versions:



So I started slowly stripping down the VW unit, as I compared it to the Stewart Warner unit I'm going to be using....



...and, after a little while, I had this:



The factory Super Beetle gauge has two floats, which after playing around I figured our are required to get a proper reading at both full and empty. Trying to sort out a way to make it all work with the aftermarket gauge was going to be relatively futile. Or at least, far more engineering then a fuel gauge should require! With my short float I should show "empty" well before the tank is actually dry....so it's somewhat reflective of a reserve left, but it does have a very accurate "full" reading. That may come across as backwards...but really I could run without a gauge at all, simply knowing how many miles between full and empty. This adds a bit of security :P

With that finished, I prepped the top half of the tank, and took care of the finish. Tomorrow I'll paint the bottom half.



I've also moved onto the dash. With Carbon Joe AWOL, I've had to go onto plan B. I'll be using a factory looking dash, and giving it the "Audi Factory Team" look. Cut some panels for around the speedo hole, and a lexan panel which fits into the radio trim. Ideally I'd like to fit the Rally computer on the far side of the glove box, but I'm going to have to wait until install the dash to check clearances.



Until tomorrow...

-Dave
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  #150  
Old January 2nd 2012, 15:23
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I love the work on the wiring harness, the techflex looks great. For the fuel level sender, why not use a stock super sender and use a gauge that reads the vdo style full-empty?
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