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  #61  
Old February 22nd 2006, 23:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom'72
nicely done 73notch, coolant pipes on my EJ20TT are 1.5 inch outside diameter by the way. I've put my tubes underneath the car and it took just over 20 liters in total if I remember correct.
I like the clean install of the pipes , but I still would be worried about damage from hitting the exposed pipes . If nothing else , I would at least make a type of shield to cover them . Axl .
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  #62  
Old February 22nd 2006, 23:38
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Thanks for the pictures. but the Type 3's and Type 1's aren't even similar. There's no way I could run it though the tunnel like that. Especialy when it gets to the frame horns I have a big 914/01 stuck in there.

I'm still thinking...

I've got an idea rolling around in my head, I'll need a little time before I can pan it out. sorta speak.
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  #63  
Old February 23rd 2006, 08:59
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Quote:
I would at least make a type of shield to cover them
I will be doing that in a few months when the suby engine is transplanted to my IRS chassis, wouldn't want to go from watercooled to aircooled in a matter of seconds
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  #64  
Old February 25th 2006, 01:01
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Just a few random thoughts.

The idea I was trying to pan out, was running straight aluminum pipe till the pan starts to curve. then run SS braided lines. but I found the SS lines are expensive. I thought this would work since I didn't have means of bending pipe. Since then I'd rather rent a bender than buy the SS lines.

People say sheild the pipes. I don't remember the last time I felt rocks hitting the bottom of my car. Bottoming out the car? Has anyone that doesn't drive a lowrider bottomed their car out? I have never.

Wouldn't 1/16th wall thickness be strong enough? 1.5 OD - 1/16th wall thickness = 1-3/8 ID. (1/8th for both walls)

I had what I would almost call, a vision. I saw the pipes running together under the car like the picture above. (Tom'72's) but put a peice of C-channel. On top, as a cover. Almost like the C-channel I used to hold my radiator. but with differant dimentions.

I want to plan this out carefully, so if I need to do something, like change transmissions, pull the engine, change beams. what ever I want, it won't take an act of congress to get the water lines and other obsicles out of the way.

Please excuse the rants. That's one reason I started this thread, So I can ask any question or say almost anything (about the subject) and not feel like I'm hyjacking.
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  #65  
Old February 26th 2006, 01:54
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I need some help, I'm ready to order my fuel line 3/8. I've got my pump bought, but I need a fuel filter. Doesn't sound hard, but there's a lot of differant filters. I cetainly don't want to starve my engine for fuel because of the filter. The only thing I do know is that I have Fuel Injection on the suby, after that, Nothing.

What kind? type? size? What do I look for in a filter?

I'm kinda clueless. I saw some that were $10 and some that were almost $100.
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  #66  
Old February 26th 2006, 03:30
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Hey Mikey , I would say that your best bet would be to go with something close to the stock Suby filter . It shouldn't starve your engine , and give you the flow rate that you need . That's just my opinion , but since I have not actually built my Suby-Volks Bug yet , it is possible that someone else has a different , and maybe better suggestion . Axl .
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  #67  
Old February 26th 2006, 16:32
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Thanks Axl,

Any advice at this point would be helpful. I had in mind buying a filter that would be an upgrade over stock, and allow me to up grade my fuel system over time, If I should feel the need. But from what I've heard, a Bone Stock Suby would be plenty of power.
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  #68  
Old April 7th 2006, 13:50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey
Thanks Axl,

Any advice at this point would be helpful. I had in mind buying a filter that would be an upgrade over stock, and allow me to up grade my fuel system over time, If I should feel the need. But from what I've heard, a Bone Stock Suby would be plenty of power.
You need two filters, a coarse one between the tank and pump to protect the pump, and a fine one between the pump and engine to protect the injectors.

There are quite a few filters out there, as you have noted. I'd stick close to the stock Subaru parts until you need an upgrade. Here is a page with some suitable parts from Outback Motorsports:

http://www.outbackmotors.com/fuel_ra..._injectors.htm

George
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  #69  
Old April 7th 2006, 14:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey
Just a few random thoughts.

The idea I was trying to pan out, was running straight aluminum pipe till the pan starts to curve. then run SS braided lines.
I think that braided lines are overkill. Use Gates green stripe hose and it will last a long time.

Unless you are severely lowered or going to rally the car, you don't need any shielding for metal or rubber lines. Heck, just about every domestic car has fuel and brake lines run right under the body with little shielding.

One concern I have is galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. The engine is aluminum, while most radiators are brass. Copper pipe is commonly used in conversions, but some use steel or aluminum. As long as there is no external current path galvanic corrosion should not be a problem, but this means that you need to isolate the pipes and the radiator electrically from the body. Not too difficult, but something to pay attention to.

George
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  #70  
Old April 7th 2006, 14:58
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http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=7050 Here's a link to my build-up thread in the VKG section of the site.

I'll have to look into galvanic corrosion. I've never heard of that. For what it's worth, My radiator is aluminum.

Thanks for the advice.
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Last edited by Mikey; April 7th 2006 at 15:05.
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  #71  
Old April 7th 2006, 17:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey
http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=7050 Here's a link to my build-up thread in the VKG section of the site.

I'll have to look into galvanic corrosion. I've never heard of that. For what it's worth, My radiator is aluminum.

Thanks for the advice.
Well, if you have an aluminum engine, an aluminum radiator, aluminum piping and a aluminum header tank you probably don't have much to worry about.

I was originally thinking of using copper piping for ease of fabrication, but perhaps after I get a MIG welder the aluminum might become more practical.
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  #72  
Old April 8th 2006, 01:49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeL
I was originally thinking of using copper piping for ease of fabrication, but perhaps after I get a MIG welder the aluminum might become more practical.
Did you mean, TIG? 'Tungsten Arc Welding'

It's possible to weld aluminum with MIG, but you need a specal wire feeder. A spool gun. Other then that you can't weld it with MIG.
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  #73  
Old April 14th 2006, 00:47
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Hmmm... I don't want to jump the gun, but I'm looking past my engine installation to get an idea of what's in store for me with the ignition.

I'm using a Megasquirt set up with the EDIS ignition. I've been reading on this site. http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/EDIS.htm I found this coil pack. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku (I know I can get them cheaper used, but if I have the money I'm going to buy it new.) I can't figure out what parts I need total.

So far I believe I need:
EDIS module
Crank wheel (36 -1)
Crank variable reluctor sensor (VRS)
and 1 coil pack.

Is that all I should need? I am by no stretch of the imagination an electrician. So this is extra confusing for me. :help:
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  #74  
Old April 14th 2006, 10:52
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http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/ex...atyouneed.html

Im not sure which board you are using, but i had to mod my board for edis.
That link above has a ton of info too.

Also, dont forget wires
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  #75  
Old April 15th 2006, 11:26
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new guy

Hello everyone, this is my first post on this cool site, I have been checking out this site for a while now, but never felt the urge to post, untill now, I am a 40 year old father of two, I have a fabrication shop in Bogota, Colombia, I do restorations on Barndoor buses ( buses from 1950 to march of 1955), we also restore convertible beetles (from 1958 to 1967), and convertible KarmanGhias (from 1958 to 1969), and ship them to clients abroad, I have always been a "modified" car type of person, I grew up in SoCal, (ex lowrider), I was also into Porsches, owned a couple of fast versions. I am an ex Marine aircraft mechanic), also worked in the aereospace industry in SoCal (Douglas,Northrop,AmericanAirlines). I finally joined this forum because I am doing some research for a couple of Suby powered projects, we at the shop are thinking of doing a scratch built, WRX sti powered, 1953 15 window deluxe VW bus ,with a porsche G50 tranny, a full Porsche 993 or 996 multi link rear suspension, with a 993 or 996 front suspension, we are thinking of running either Brembos or Porsche big reds for brakes, it will all be held together with a scratch built, custom rectangular tube chassis. We are also thinking of doing something similar with a convertible 1958 KarmanGhia "lookalike". We think this would be good publicity for the shop, and I really love doing **** that other people say it's impossible to do. Again, glad to part of this forum, and I hope to learn a ****load from you guys, BTW if any of you need fabrication services, we do it all when it comes to sheetmetal, thanks
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