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  #106  
Old September 25th 2006, 17:50
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The problem with reverse mounting a type one is reversing the ring and pinion. There is a lot of controversy about the gears ability to handle the high load in the opposite direction. There are type one transmissions that are built for drag and sand racing which should handle the power of the turbo suby motor. I can't imagine they are cheap though.

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  #107  
Old September 25th 2006, 22:41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Last Triumph View Post
Coolant tubes in the heater channels?

If a type one was used with a reversed mount, would that allow DOHC covers to clear the bodywork?

Again, sorry for all the questions.
Don't worry about the quesitons. I'll try to answer the questions I can. About your coolant lines. What is the car going to be used for? Daily driver...? I think the lines in the channels is a good idea, but if by some chance you have a problem you can forget about trying to get to them. I concidered this route myself.

I'm not sure about reaversing the rear mount. I think you gain about 2". I'm sure it would help, but the belt covers would still be close for clearance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeVW View Post
The problem with reverse mounting a type one is reversing the ring and pinion. There is a lot of controversy about the gears ability to handle the high load in the opposite direction. There are type one transmissions that are built for drag and sand racing which should handle the power of the turbo suby motor. I can't imagine they are cheap though.

Mike
The way it looks to me, he wasn't talking about a mid engine. He was talking about reversing the rear craddle mount. To move the transmission forward.
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  #108  
Old September 26th 2006, 10:21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
The way it looks to me, he wasn't talking about a mid engine. He was talking about reversing the rear craddle mount. To move the transmission forward.
Upon re-reading it you're right. I got my hopes up, I want to see a mid mounted suby motor mated to a type one transmission.

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  #109  
Old September 26th 2006, 14:06
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If I mid mounted a Scooby I would use a Subaru trans locked to FWD, much easier and cheaper!

The engine DOES fit under stock bodywork with the cradle reversed (gain just under 2" depending on cradle), I and many others have done it.

You can destroy built gearboxes wiht stock engines, it all depends on how you drive. For fast starts preload the gears, no dumping the clutch on every opportunity and it will last a reasonable amount of time. Just choose the right gearing (ie long) and 4 gears isn't a problem at all, turbos like somethign to work against.

I'd be nervous about coolant lines in the channels, if they leak how do you replace them?!

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  #110  
Old September 26th 2006, 16:03
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Okay, this is the deal. I Originally wanted to build a tube frame mid engined chassis for a G50 or similar, a 400bhp small block chevy, full custom double wishbone chassis and mount my '64 body to it all..... I have nursed this dream for nearly 10 years now whilst life has happened.

Upon reflection though, I have woken up to the realisation that my name isn't Boyd Coddington, I don't have his facilities, and I certainly don't have the Discovery Channel funding the idea, so until I can afford to get someone to build it for me, it can sit on the shelf for a few more years?

Now I'm back in the real world with my modest budget, modest skills and single garage, it would seem a Scooby conversion is a much more realistically achievable project given my budget, facilities and space.

My aim is to have a immaculately presented conversion, sort of a resto cal sleeper that may sit in the garage for a few weeks at a time but comes out for a play on sunny days and the occaisional show, with a dozen or so RWYB runs up the strip - without breaking. No burn outs, no dough-nuts but occasional fair but firm use.

I won't be side stepping the clutch at 6k on slicks, or power shifting without the clutch, but in the same breath, I don't want to go to all the time and trouble of building something that I need to tread on egg shells with in case I break it?

Hope that makes sense?

Also, is my theory correct here?.... I think it is much better to start with the most powerful standard engine I can find, than to start with a weaker motor and have to tune it later? My intention would be to use an STi unit 280bhp + from the get go. For the difference in cost, later tuning doesn't seam worth it over starting with the big guns in the first place?
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  #111  
Old September 26th 2006, 16:57
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TL, those are all very achieveable goals.

My first engine choice was a Type-4, but being a College student with a modest budget. I can't very well sit around 2 or 3 years while I save cash for the engine. I decided to go with a Subaru because of the out of box power you get. They were built to go 100,000+ miles with 200+ hp. I ended up buying mine for about $1,000 JDM. You can't touch a big T-1 or a big T-4 for a $1,000.

Your transmission criteria makes perfect sense. I'd like the same type of transmission myself. I'm using a 914 right now. But I'm not sure how well 1st will hold up. I want the best for the money, and I'd rather do it right the first time then have to redo it later.

I believe, it is a shared opinion among us water converters to use a much stronger engine to start with. If you like being under the hood of your bug often. Then a big T-1 or a big T-4 might be good. But if you want to hop in it and drive, with an unbelieveable amount of HP and Tourqe. Subaru. As for later tuning. Ummm... if 200hp in a bug is crazy. Then 300hp in a bug is insane! To help keep cost down, you can always leave it stock for now. Then tune later, also if you think you want to tune it later. Go with an aftermarket ecu over the stock unit. They're about the same cost, but the aftermarket is tuneable later.

I read somewhere. Power, Reliability, and Cost. Now pick two. I'm trying to find the best of all three.
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  #112  
Old September 26th 2006, 19:02
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Sounds like a typical contractor - Cheap, fast, quality - pick two....

I think we're on the same page re trannies.

So, what do people recommned for the power / use discussed?

Is there a type one tranny spec that will give good long reliable service with the above duty? And if so, what spec?

I sense 'G50' on the horizon?
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  #113  
Old September 27th 2006, 04:53
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If you speak to a transmission builder I doubt any would sell you a type 1 for those power levels with any kind of back-up. It would be straight to Mendeola and $£$£

But, the fact is that plenty do last quite well. Unless you go slicks or abuse it a type 1 would last well, but if you want a guarantee just bite the bullet and go G50 and you will be safe for 600bhp+

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  #114  
Old September 27th 2006, 07:06
Last Triumph Last Triumph is offline
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Thought so - I don't mind paying for a G50.

A 200bhp pro built type one motor is £6k minimum + trans

A type IV even more + trans

A V8 small block 300 bhp 'turn key' crate motor £5k + trans

A Sti Scooby 280 bhp+ £2k ish? max + maybe £1500 for a decent G50?

Bargain in my book....!

Is there any argument for a 915 box instead of a G50 - I'm thinking ease of intall re Bug@5speed conversion parts etc, cost?

Any thoughts?
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  #115  
Old September 27th 2006, 08:01
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Martin has had customers with Subaru to 915 with much success.. PM us for details.. Do have a pdf (in german, that I can send you) with pics that may help on fitment.. PM email address if you would like..
VR
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  #116  
Old September 27th 2006, 14:54
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Thanks, pm sent.

What are the differences between the two trans - size? strenght? fitment? ratios? etc.

Also, based on standard (ish) tyres, what are the revs / speed / gears numbers typically like?

I imagine that a Porsche trans will be pretty long legged?
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  #117  
Old September 27th 2006, 16:56
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It would be a fair bit more work to fit a G50, a 915 can just about squeeze in with the shorter nosecone but I believe it needs lowering to clear the bodywork. You want to go up rather than down wiht the Scooby sump/filter/exhaust depths.
I had a 915 with EJ20t in my speedster and it was OK but I wasn't a big fan of the slow shift (check the Porsche forums) so if I changed from the type 1 trans I'd go straight to a G50, no hesitation..
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  #118  
Old September 27th 2006, 18:12
Last Triumph Last Triumph is offline
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Fair enough, I guess that a short nose cone 915 still wouldn't give enough cam cover room without moving the box forward into the pan?

The scale of the work to fit a G50 doesn't really bother me. It's small change on the grand scale of a full body off resto with IRS conversion.

On a different note, just what is the performance like on a 250 - 300 bhp scooby bug like?

I've driven some very powerful cars in my time, just wondered how it feels?
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  #119  
Old October 9th 2006, 02:52
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LT, if you are looking for an occasionally driven car like you said, I would recommend just going for a built type 1. Itll be simpler in the long run, and will still make u mess your pants.

Also, curious why are you going for the g50?

"Sti Scooby 280 bhp+ £2k ish", + a couple K for the conversion. Sti engines arent cheap.

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  #120  
Old October 9th 2006, 08:28
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Hi

Ive fitted a G50 into my 1303, I have also moved it forward 100 mm right through the torsion bar housing. I went so far forward because the Subi motor im using has variable cams and they stick out a little more than other WRX motors and I also wanted better weight distribution.

Its not a conversion for the faint hearted.

You can see more info here http://www.clubvw.org.au/steve_carter.htm

Steve

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