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Old November 20th 2008, 12:07
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VDO Gauge problem

I've got VDO gauges in my beetle on one isn't working properly. I have the 150psi oil pressure oil and grounded (two post) sender. It seems like I have the wrong sender because when I start it up it pegs the gauge (150psi), even after warming up it stays pegged. When you ground the signal wire it goes to zero so its almost as if the sender is defective or I've got a 100psi sender. The subaru is probably putting out around 90psi max cold but and about 50-60psi max warm. Any suggestions/anyone have this problem before? Thanks

Mike
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Old November 20th 2008, 19:12
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Hi

The wiring code on those senders is sometimes confused, "G" is for the gauge and "W" is for the warning lamp.

I asked on a WRX forum what sort of pressures do they get at startup, I was told that when cold they peg 10 bar (145 psi) so it sounds like you have the correct gauge.

Can you get a VDO agent to check it out for you?

I've used VDO gauges for years and I've never had a problem.

Steve
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Old November 20th 2008, 19:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve C View Post
Hi

The wiring code on those senders is sometimes confused, "G" is for the gauge and "W" is for the warning lamp.

I asked on a WRX forum what sort of pressures do they get at startup, I was told that when cold they peg 10 bar (145 psi) so it sounds like you have the correct gauge.

Can you get a VDO agent to check it out for you?

I've used VDO gauges for years and I've never had a problem.

Steve
Ahh, G meaning gauge would make sense. The one I have does have two posts, but in the instructions it shows one post for ground and the other for signal, rather than having a floating ground. I'm pretty sure one terminal is labelled G and the other S, but I'd have to check when I get home in a week. I didn't get around to trying to flip them and experimenting but will try it next time I fire it up.

Thanks

EDIT: upon further research I must have the sender you mentioned, with one terminal for the oil light. It seems that is all that is available. This would make sense with the gauge hooked to the light terminal, it would be full open and peg the gauge. The one thing that worries me now is that when I was driving around (a slow test run) the gauge went to zero a couple times meaning oil pressure dropped below 11.4 psi (the pressure the gauge is set to turn on the light), it would ground the wire which would put the gauge to zero. Better getting the gauge working and get the full story on oil pressure.
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Last edited by Eatoniashoprat; November 20th 2008 at 19:58.
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Old November 24th 2008, 05:49
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Hi

I downloaded all the VDO gauged instructions from a VDO website, they are in PDF format so you can save them to your hard drive for the future.

Are you sure you have the correct sender to suit the gauge?

Steve
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Old November 24th 2008, 10:10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve C View Post
Hi

I downloaded all the VDO gauged instructions from a VDO website, they are in PDF format so you can save them to your hard drive for the future.

Are you sure you have the correct sender to suit the gauge?

Steve
Well I made sure when ordering that I ordered the one I needed but I received them about 6 months ago and can't find the invoice. When I get home on Thursday I'll swap the wires around and see what happens.


On this link:
http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-123.pdf

I received the instructions in 'Diagram D' and I'm starting to the I got the sender for 'Diagram B'. I can't verify this until I see it though, but that should clear things up.
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Old November 25th 2008, 20:45
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Hi

This is a screen shot from the PDF instruction that I have. It looks different to your

Steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg vdo.jpg (62.5 KB, 15 views)
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Old December 1st 2008, 11:57
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Hi Steve, I just got around to checking it out and wiring it like your diagram worked. Thanks for the input. Of course I just get this working, start the car up to drive it out of the garage and the clutch won't disengage after working previously. Guess I'll be pulling the motor to figure that one out.

Mike
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Old December 4th 2008, 01:58
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Hi

Glad I could help, could your clutch issue be moisture freezing the clutch plate to the flywheel?

Were do you take your oil pressure reading from, the stock warning light position? I thought that area might get a bit crowded.

I'm just waiting for the Au-US $ to improve again, I've bought a lot stuff for my car recently when the $1AU = $.93 US, now we are about $1AU = $.63 US.

I'm going to purchase a Canton Accusump and fittings for my car and mount my oil filter remotely, this will give me a handy place for an oil pressure sender.

Steve
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Old December 4th 2008, 16:02
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You can see where I mounted the sendor, its a pretty ugly little unit, but I'm more for function than form so it will stay. The remote filter idea is a good one, if I ever go that route it would be on my list of things to do once the car is complete and al the bugs are worked out.



I think you might be right with the clutch, I never even thought about freezing since I've never seen it happen before. I probably won't take it on any more test runs until spring now considering there is a foot of snow. I would go out and hold the clutch in and get the engine torque to break the clutch loose but there isn't anywhere to get traction anymore.

I'm feeling a similar situation here in Canada with the dollar, not as in Aus but still enough to slow things down.
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Old December 5th 2008, 06:39
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Originally Posted by Eatoniashoprat View Post
.................................................. ........ I would go out and hold the clutch in and get the engine torque to break the clutch loose but there isn't anywhere to get traction anymore.

.................
I'm not surprised I think you're missing something from the left rear??

evilC
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Old December 5th 2008, 08:36
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Hi

I had a frozen clutch on a bug that I bought once, it had had been stored for a many years, a few revs with clutch pedal depressed fixed it, but some traction will be needed.

Were just getting into summer now, low 30s today.

I bought one of these oil filter relocation kits from a local Jap racer store, really well made etc, only problem is that the when the fittings are in place they are lower than the stock oil filter, which could be a problem. So I will get a Canton oil filter block in the future as these have side exits for the fittings.

Jap kit

Canton oil filter block

Steve
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