Transplant time

[Humble]

So I finally got fed up with the tired 1600 in the daily bug and decided to pick up a bigger one I picked up this little guy for a bit over 2k and so far I think I got my money's worth.




2276cc
dual weber 44, (italian woohoo!) with ported manifolds
worked over heads, port matched, not sure who did it but they look good
pauter rockers
78mm crank
94mm pistons and cylinders
balanced assembly
norris 336S cam (a torqer cam)
12lb. flywheel
KEP stage 1 pressure plate
black magic clutch disc
oberg fuel filter
msd dizzy
msd 6al box with 7000rpm pill
72plate oil cooler with fan
dyno put it at 150hp (not sure if that was in car or not)

It was still in the car when went to pick it up. It ran rough but ran, definitely a carb problem. The back story is the motor was built for a baja bug off road toy, then dad sold his daily and used the baja for a month. In turn he annoyed baby daughter and all condo neighbors. He parked the bug in cargo container over summer, all gas evaporated leaving carbs a mess. He tried to rebuild them but now they worse, selling motor/baja to fund other projects.

I already autopsied and rebuilt the carbs (anyone interested in a weber rebuild how-to?) and found one of the float assemblies was damaged. New carb top and a little porting and it's good as new. The next step is a thin sump and installing it in the car.

[Wally]

Good find!
Maybe also give it a full flow oil system the easy way (with that CSP part you stick into the oil control valve galley)?

I hope this doesn't mean any delays in the turbomotor project

Oh, and check maybe the chrome fan house for internal vanes. Otherwise I would replace that with an original doghouse fanshroud for 'you know why' reasons ;-)

[Humble]

Unfortunately it is taking away from the turbo project but this is kind of necessary. It is already full flow with oil lines coming from the oil cooler boss in the shroud which probably means there's no oil cooler in the shroud. I'm not sure what to think of that setup but the previous owner said the oil temp dropped significantly when the fan can on, and temps never went over 200. I'm pretty sure there are vanes inside the shroud because I can see the rivets for them on the back side.

[Humble]

Further tear down yesterday revealed that the rockers are scat not pauter like I was told. The heads are aggressively ported, like a wedge port, and the manifolds and gaskets to match. I checked lift at the valve and found it's only .370 which seems small to me for a motor this size, but there are dual valve springs for higher lift/revs. Heads are a 040 casting, not sure how strong that is compared to the 044 CB heads. There is no oil cooler in the shroud just the large external cooler, I'm going to test this setup in the car to see how well it works. I did add a thin line oil sump as it's pretty much required for twisty mountain roads.

[Steve C]

Hi

I'm running a 1904 in my daily with no internal cooler, just an external one behind the front apron with a fan, stays cool.

Steve

[Clatter]

The original German 040 castings are of a much higher quality than the Brazil 044.
More fins, with much greater detail, and supposedly bettter metallurgy.

Those intake manifolds will work with a factory doghouse shroud.
There are many reasons to hate Chinese tins.
The biggest is the lack of cooling to your motor.
I'll spare you the others...

Going to check CR and the valvetrain geometry,
Or just run it?

A torque cam and the resulting short-shifting can make a motor last a lot longer in a daily...

[Humble]

I did check valvetrain geometry and it looked good but I might open up one of the valve covers again and double check the pushrods, check if they are steel or aluminum. I'm getting a lot of noise when it's warm so I'm thinking steel or chromoly pushrods. I wanted to run the motor as is since it was already dynoed with this combo and everything is pretty new.

I'm still dialing in the carbs but I'm stunned by the sound of a 2276 at full song in the mountains. I don't think I've turned the radio on yet. This motor loves to rev and once the carbs are properly balanced it'll really sing! The power is great too, it's not all there yet but very light throttle cruising through the mountains should help out the milage a bit (I hope). Despite the exhaust being too small I think it's really helped the low end torque, it's like a tractor at low revs. At high revs it keeps winding out but the power's not there.

So far the issue's are :
1. found a small leak on the 1-2 carb accelerator pump, need to pull and fix
2. 1-2 carb accelerator pump doesn't open at the same rate as the 3-4 side
3. Wrong idle adjustment screw and spring on the 1-2 carb
4. Get thermo switch for oil cooler fan, right now it's wired to the rear defrost relay

Carb info for the curious is .60 idles, 1.35 mains, F11 tubes, 2.00 airs, and 36 vents, which is "by the book" in the weber manual for this motor.

[gonebuggy]

Check your mains with a jet gauge. 135 mains are SMALL for a 2276. I also think 60 idles are large.

You should be in the 55 idle and 150 main range. What Vents are you using? 36mm? What's your timing set at?


Alex

[Wally]

Originally Posted by Humble

I did check valvetrain geometry and it looked good but I might open up one of the valve covers again and double check the pushrods, check if they are steel or aluminum. I'm getting a lot of noise when it's warm so I'm thinking steel or chromoly pushrods.

How surprised would you be when the valve clearence is set for alu pushrods and they turned out to be chr-mo... wouldn't be the first person/PO to have done this