Loose flywheel: How bad ?

[Rob]

So I finally figured out what the problem is with my engine:
Loose flywheel !

So what should I do now ? I can take the dowel pins out with my fingers, not sure if this is supposed to be this way (I guess not).

With the pins in, but the gland nut off, I can move the wheel a bit back and forth, so I guess the holes are out of round ?
Or is it just a matter of using new pins ?

Keep in mind that this is on a stock 1600SP, by no means a HiPo motor

Rob.

[effvee]

Hi keep in mind that the dowels are what needed for the flywheel the transmit the torque to the transmission. The gland nut just keeps everythig from getting loose, there are some shopes that welds crankshaf but it will cost.

[Richie]

Hi Rob,

The dowelpins are not supposed to be taken out by hand. You can ream the dowelpinholes oversize. I believe there is a non-metric size slightly larger than the standard 8mm dowelpins. Am not sure though.
I've used a Loctiteproduct #? that is for glueing rollerbearings in place when they're fitting to loose (do I make any sense ?)
But I only used it in standard engines which only see moderate use.
Hope this helps a bit, and I will look up the loctite#

Cheers,
Richard

[NO_H2O]

The last Beetle I bought came from a guy that just had the engine rebuilt then a month or so later it started to knock. He got mad and sold it cheap. I bought it. I found the flywheel loose(undertorqued gland nut) and the pin holes where pounded out. The end of the crank was no longer flat and the flywheel was in the same shape. I am replaceing the crank and flywheel and it will become my spare engine. The 2 surfaces(crank end and flywheel) must be true or you will have a vibration that will cause damage. If they are flat and true you could use a jig and drill it for 8 dowls and step the old holes up to 1/4 inch then use hardened steel pins(1/4) in the old holes and re-torque the gland nut. If the metal is rolled on the end of the crank you should replace it and the flywheel.